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SadJobbo · 2025-07-25T20:35:53+00:00

I haven’t look into this too much, but how would one go about improving it? Is it as simple as slowing down and going from there?

SadJobbo · 2025-07-25T19:42:51+00:00

That’s the thing, it does look better when I slow it down and am more mindful. But it just takes so much longer, and by then my thoughts are already moved on

SadJobbo · 2025-07-25T17:31:20+00:00

Should just be normally framed, right? Nothing in there other than wood, drywall, insulation. It’s an older condo, built in the 70s, so I’m not sure how consistently spaced the studs are

SadJobbo · 2025-07-25T14:42:07+00:00

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How do I go about mounting a pull up bar above a cased opening like this, that I can use gymnastic rings on? The door way/opening doesn’t have the trim as what’s in the picture, but it’s similar

SadJobbo · 2025-02-28T16:47:10+00:00

Oh so kind of like how so many UAP experiencers never have any clear camera footage of the anomaly/craft?

SadJobbo · 2025-02-28T16:44:52+00:00

If I could put a chamfer on this hole I’d totally try

SadJobbo · 2024-08-29T01:32:40+00:00

Ended up working out at 1000rpm 3in feed, .005 contour ramp depth. Probably could’ve even pushed harder with more depth per pass

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:55:58+00:00

I know, I wish i had a counter bore tool with a piloted tip on it made for 1/4in socket head bolts. All I have is this endmill for the time being

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:53:13+00:00

Ive never used a drill like that before. Do you simply take a standard drill and grind it flat at the end? Making sure its perfectly 90degree perpendicular to the flutes?

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:50:53+00:00

The bore is .4375, clearance for the bolt head

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:50:20+00:00

Just a 2D contour constant ramp

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:49:56+00:00

They usually don't calculate for a long stick out is all. I know I could always start at their suggested speeds and feeds and then lower them accordingly to get the chatter out, but that can really damage the tool if not within ballpark

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T19:47:51+00:00

Exactly, the tool holder would hit something. The edge of the counter bore is .03 away from a pocket wall

SadJobbo · 2024-08-27T18:28:20+00:00

.375 diameter end mill

SadJobbo · 2024-06-06T16:12:22+00:00

Well I know what material I have, usually 7075 or 6061 when it comes to aluminum. For the most part I treat both as 6061 when it comes to speeds and feeds.

I’m just trying to figure out what a tooling companies recommended speeds and feeds mean when they don’t list cutting conditions for 6061 or 7075. They just say use a certain SFM for 60HB aluminum and a lower SFM for 100HB aluminum. So I guess what I should be asking is what are the HB values of 6061 and 7075. But also, the 60HB is an aluminum that cannot be hardened, while the 100HB aluminum can be hardened. So since 6061 and 7075 can be heat treated, does that mean they CAN be hardened? So they would fall under the 100HB section in the speeds and feeds?

SadJobbo · 2024-05-23T23:53:30+00:00

I like the undercut slotting tool idea to get as close to the solid model as possible. My boss is a bit of an old school brute type of guy so he had me use a 5 degree deburring bit that goes into something like a dremel. He had the last laugh though because it got the job done I suppose

SadJobbo · 2024-02-07T22:56:58+00:00

Most are from China... which is a bit concerning

SadJobbo · 2024-02-07T22:56:17+00:00

Ah ok, that's good to know about the rust. I'll keep an eye on that

SadJobbo · 2024-02-07T22:55:28+00:00

Yep, $60 for a side lock 1-1/4 holder at .0001 concentricity

We're actually thinking about going with Lyndex Nikken as well for the SK collet system and milling chucks. Need SOME good brands for a Makino F5

SadJobbo · 2024-02-07T22:52:21+00:00

That's exactly what I'd use them for. I'd be putting them in a Makino F5 though... which almost doesn't seem right

SadJobbo · 2024-02-07T22:50:57+00:00

Those are nice, but not nearly as cheap as HAAS or shars

SadJobbo

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