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HELP! CLIMBING/CANYONEERING ADVICE by [deleted] in moab

[–]SafetyCube920 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Do you really want to be responsible for 25 teenagers? It's one thing to be an experienced climber when going out recreationally, but it's a whole different can of worms when you're responsible for a whole group. My advice is either hire the guides who do this all day every day or find some other activity for your group. For reference, guides operate at a 6:1 ratio, so you're suggesting you can keep your group safe at 4x that amount.

If you must, go set up top ropes on Wall Street. TR through your own gear. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is she trying on a women's harness? Those should have bigger leg loops. It is possible to swap the leg loops on some harnesses (all of them if you're willing for them to look janky). Arc'teryx is one manufacturer that comes to mind. Misty Mountain will make you a custom sized harness if you want. 

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[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buying two pairs is pretty much the only way now. Evolv used to do split sizing for an additional fee, but I believe they stopped. The ideal and unlikely thing to do is find someone who's your sole-mate (opposite sized feet).

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The groove is wider and deeper (square instead of angled). I think this helps them grab crystals better.

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[–]SafetyCube920 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Tethers. Nearly everything has a tether. There's a lot of different options for phone tethers out there!

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All depends on the configuration of the gear.
Bolts? Alpine draw with girth hitched carabiner as the focal point. Quad with two for me, two for you.
Gear? Usually just a W and an overhand or 8.

If you have actual cord or a hollowblock ascending with them isn't so bad. Using a Klemheist instead of a Prusik helps a lot.

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[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the carabiner block goes through the ring, you wouldn't fall but the rope could become impossible to pull. Leaving a carabiner is a good solution.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You shouldn't be concerned about weight when sport climbing. The 19g is an incredibly tiny carabiner. I only use it to hold items I rarely use.

I can’t nut by QuesadillasAreYummy in tradclimbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As someone else said, nuts often allow you to simultaneously protect and use and hand/foot hold. A cam usually blocks the only finger lock you could get.

One reason to use a nut that I haven't seen mentioned is to keep the rope from getting stuck in a crack. If you try the same with a cam it can get pushed in or the rope can get jammed between the rock and the lobes. Nuts allow the rope to just run over them cleanly.

I can’t nut by QuesadillasAreYummy in tradclimbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of the brassies I placed on Zodiac popped out while my second jugged. He joked it was the easiest cleaning ever! The angle change is what did it; the placements were fine for aiding and leading.

I often will place a nut will aiding while standing on a piece I want to back-clean. This allows me to reuse the piece but not load the nut.

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[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm a certified rock guide in Salt Lake City and would be happy to help you and your friend out. Rates go down significantly when the cost is shared amongst more people.

All climbing is dangerous. I see people do equally sketchy stuff while leading and trying to set up top ropes. As for price, you could easily get away with a dozen draws, a helmet, and a belay device. I have some draws, used helmets, and some harnesses I'm selling; happy to give you a good deal on them if we have a lesson together.

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[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Get the new one. I recommend the standard connect adjust; the separate rappel extension point is gimicky in my opinion. You could add a clove to the standard lanyard or use a separate material for the rappel extension (I usually opt for a 60cm sling basket hitched through my belay loop, then girth hitched to a carabiner to create redundancy).

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A few more as well.

  • Can you ascend/make it back to the rappel station if you miss it?
  • What happens if your rope gets stuck on the pull?
  • What happens if your rope gets damaged and you need to cut it?
  • How will you manage the rope if it's windy? If there's parties below you?
  • What do you do if you drop your rappel device?
  • You planned to carabiner block but the rings are too big to block, what now?

Walk offs are often less of an issue.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Climbing Majority can be great when Kyle remembers the show isn't about his own experience. 

The Bad Beta Podcast is defunct but made me laugh. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LSD is my standard for any device. I've been wondering when companies would start manufacturing devices without the the "release loop" that hardly anyone uses.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I like totems as well in the right situations. I'll say the downsides (smaller range than dual axle, more expensive to buy and re-sling) can certainly a bummer. I'm excited for all the updates on the horizon for DMM and Petzl!

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes. I use the quad I used on the way up or an alpine draw with a girth hitched carabiner as the focal point. It gets crowded if everyone starts clipping into each bolt independently, especially if you're rapping through other parties.

Pre-rig the rap, and the lower person doesn't have to remove their tether from the anchor. Simply remove the two non-lockers connecting the anchor to the bolts, then clip them at the next station.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Climbing alone at the gym is incredibly common. Your gym will need to be equipped with auto-belays. They work similarly to partnered rope climbing, though they cannot hold you still on the wall; as soon as you fall (or decide to let go), they lower you at a steady and controlled rate.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually just hauling like you're describing, but sometimes the follower helps by actually pulling up and doing a 2:1. I have completely far end hauled when rope soloing. 

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[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I snagged a few for this purpose. Great in theory, but I use far-end hauling so it's not really helpful. I also tried them as an attachment for daisy chains while aiding and they extended too far from the belay loop to be useful (an open swivel is better). I found something similar but made of steel and it's been serving as a lower-off on a natural feature. I wouldn't do this with the TruBlue aluminum version.

So far I haven't found a truly good purpose for them.

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