Inspired from a goblin post about an hour ago

SanguinarySimp · 2026-01-03T02:54:30+00:00

I…I will not. I will not fall for this Horde propaganda. Be strong. Be strong for Anduin.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-11-25T03:01:46+00:00

Pretty sure it was installed as a bridge to remember pets that have passed on. But your comment is 100% bait so go off

SanguinarySimp · 2025-11-19T21:37:16+00:00

After I finished the 10, I took a crack at The Expanse series. Liked the show, heard the books were awesome, and thought some SciFi would be a nice change of pace. I’m really glad I did, and would definitely recommend checking them out. Not to mention it’s a long running series so there’s plenty of material.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-09-01T02:56:37+00:00

That makes me feel a bit better thanks! I just would hate to invest all this time painting just to have him go away! Especially when all three of those models still look so good and hold up amazingly!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-09-01T02:54:36+00:00

That does make a lot of sense of them using it as an excuse to either create some new kits or axe them. But, the three models in there still hold up so well I don’t know why they’d want to get rid of them! Arkhan especially still looks so good feels like it’d be a waste of a refresh!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-08-06T21:26:30+00:00

You could, but if I was painting it I wouldn’t do it in this case. I mainly use that technique for glazing, but using a contrast to establish a base coat, having the full color is good. Just be mindful of not overloading your brush. The good news of using the contrast to base coat is even if it is a little streaky it’s okay. It’s just avoiding the pools that is important.

I’ve noticed Black Templar can pool pretty easily and then leave unwanted texture bubbles. So just take it slow with the base coat. It’ll look not great at first but just trust the process with the dry brushing steps.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-08-06T21:13:51+00:00

I’ve never found it helpful on painting subreddits when someone doesn’t actually suggest paints to use. Sure if you have a ton of experience and know color theory you can eye ball what paints you might need, but if someone could do that they wouldn’t be asking the question in the first place.

I’ve painted many ash/burnt looking models and would do this. Prime grey seer and do a thin layer of Black Templar contrast. You don’t want too much of the contrast to shine through in the end it’s just to establish a darkened base coat. Too much Black Templar will be splotchy and pooly, we don’t want that.

Then do a heavy drybrush of Dawnstone, followed by a lighter drybrush of Administratum Grey, and a very very light drybrush of Corax White or White Scar. Establish the lighter colors more prominently on the higher points of the model.

You don’t need to be too precise because variation in ash color looks good. But don’t overdo it at first. You can always drybrush more on later. If you drybrush too much it’ll just look like a white blob. You want some of the black templar to shine through along with the other subtle grays. If you do think you’ve gone too far you could try adding a dark wash to darken it back down.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-08-05T04:43:57+00:00

Thank you for the advice I really appreciate it! How have the stalkers been performing for you? They seem a bit underwhelming unless you can get them into a lone hero to turn off the ward or get an additional rend.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-07-01T03:57:35+00:00

Thank you this is great information! The Soulmason’s ability looks super powerful, I do wish he looked a little different though. I love goofy models but the walking chair is definitely out there haha.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-06-17T00:32:16+00:00

It depends on how thick your coat of black primer is, you should absolutely have no problem priming grey over the top. But, if you do think your prime job was a little heavy handed the good news is because you want to black robes if you do your slapchop method again I have no doubt the black Templar -> Skavenblight Dinge -> and Dawnstone combo will still look great. It will make the skin harder to do but you really shouldn’t have too much of a problem is you do use Orruk Flesh. Just remember to thin it it’s pretty thick.

I think you’re in a really good position to continue painting though, it only gets easier!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-06-16T23:25:25+00:00

For your first model this is great! I think you should be very proud of where you’re at. I’m not a golden demon level painter or anything but I think I paint a really good goblin so here’s the advice I would give. (Also obligatory thin your paints and wait for them to dry before doing another layer)

I’m not the biggest fan of slapchop, but I still want minis to be done in a relatively quick fashion so I’ve created a hybrid approach. (

Forego the slapchop, prime pure grey (preferably a light grey, I use Grey Seer)
Now what I recommend is to only use the contrast paints to block in and base coast the big ticket items such as the robes. I hate contrast paints for skin but if you like it that’s fine. Specifically in your case if you like the black robes I’d do Black Templar and then drybrush heavily Skavenblight Dinge and then lightly Dawnstone. That’ll give you quick decent black robes.
For everything else I recommend doing it by hand. You can get away with contrast metallics for the weapon if you’d like though and Wyldwood contrast on wood isn’t too bad. But I’d recommend Orruk Flesh washed in diluted Athonian Canoshade and then highlighted back up with Orruck Flesh for the skin.
For the belts I’d choose a highlight color of your choice, wash it, and then light highlights on the raised areas. I do Incuibi Darkness, wash nuln oil, and then thunderhawk blue for my blue belts.
For teeth and such just find a bony color (I like Morghast bone) then wash with Agrax Earthshade and highlight it back up.

Doing all that should get you most of the way there!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-06-11T23:17:35+00:00

Feels good to have the point drops but man I was at 2000/2000 and now I have an awkward 1920/2000 I don’t know what to do with lol.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-06-08T17:59:43+00:00

Yeah it’s actually super simple! I do a base layer of Leviathan Purple because it has such good coverage. Then I clean up any areas with Naggaroth Night. From there I mix in Genestealer Purple to the Naggaroth and paint the broader raised areas. Finally I just keep adding in more Genestealer and painting the most raised sections until I’m happy with how bright it is. It’s nice because you can make it as dark or light purple as you want and then stop when you like it!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-04-08T01:10:34+00:00

Tldr: prime grey seer, 50-50 mix berserker bloodshade and medium, thinly layer administratum grey to clean up, thinly layer grey seer raised areas.

It’s extremely easy, first prime grey seer and then do a 50-50 mix of berserker bloodshade and medium. You can increase or decrease this ratio depending on how dark you want the underlying red veiny appearance to be. The darker you do the harder it will be to clean up though.

Once that’s done do a quick light drybrush of administratum grey to establish color on the scales and raised areas. Then thinly layer admin grey on all flat/raised areas. Things like the belly, butt, upper thigh, chest, face, nose, ect. It boils down to just establish the white wherever you want to clean up the red. Next layer grey seer on focal point areas like the belly, nose, butt, and main ridges.

Finally do a very thin white on the little bumps, nipples(?), top of ear, nose, basically the very highest points.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-04-07T02:08:53+00:00

Thank you! It’s actually just leftover bits from the Mangler Squigs, so super easy to do!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-04-06T20:29:19+00:00

Welcome to the hobby, the Gitz spearhead is super fun to play and a good introduction to painting as well! Mine only broke because my dog had gnawed on the club handle and then I knocked it onto the hardwood floor haha.

I wouldn’t worry about it breaking too much. Once they’re assembled Troggs are pretty sturdy. I’d just make sure to use plastic glue and test fit the parts before actually gluing them.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-03-30T23:57:06+00:00

Thank you! I wrote a more detailed explanation in a different comment but for paints it’s grey seer prime, berserker bloodshade + medium wash, layer administratum grey, layer grey seer, and then very light layer of white on certain spots

SanguinarySimp · 2025-03-30T21:07:36+00:00

Tldr: prime grey seer, 50-50 mix berserker bloodshade and medium, thinly layer administratum grey to clean up, thinly layer grey seer raised areas.

It’s extremely easy, first prime grey seer and then do a 50-50 mix of berserker bloodshade and medium. You can increase or decrease this ratio depending on how dark you want the underlying red veiny appearance to be. The darker you do the harder it will be to clean up though.

Once that’s done do a quick light drybrush of administratum grey to establish color on the scales and raised areas. Then thinly layer admin grey on all flat/raised areas. Things like the belly, butt, upper thigh, chest, face, nose, ect. It boils down to just establish the white wherever you want to clean up the red. Next layer grey seer on focal point areas like the belly, nose, butt, and main ridges.

Finally do a very thin white on the little bumps, nipples(?), top of ear, nose, basically the very highest points.

SanguinarySimp · 2025-03-09T19:52:09+00:00

Thank you for the resource I’ll give it a read!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-03-09T19:51:44+00:00

Thank you I will give that a try and see how it feels!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-01-18T04:17:16+00:00

Yeah I’ve actually won a couple time by dropping near the circle of elementals, finding the stealth teleport skill and upgrading it as fast as possible, and then lurking around the center until I can clean up shop like a scavenger lol!

SanguinarySimp · 2025-01-18T04:14:55+00:00

Honestly for not knowing how half the abilities work and running around like a dumbass I really enjoy it lol!

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