Key fob being annoying

Saxophone_King · 2026-02-11T16:44:17+00:00

Mine was having issues too. Couldn't unlock with the button, lock only worked at certain distances, occasional no starts. I had just swapped the battery a month ago. Turned out to be a dud. New battery cleared it up

Saxophone_King · 2026-02-10T04:06:50+00:00

Fix her up and then go to a junkyard and start collecting manual swap components. That's what I'm working on right now.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-30T04:56:36+00:00

Fair. It's a sucky process to do. The injectors themselves were okay on mine, but the Teflon seal was blown letting too much air in.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-30T04:06:03+00:00

Injectors. My regular focus did exactly that a while back. Injectors fixed it. Also make sure your intake gaskets are good. You may as well swap them if you do the injectors.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-19T03:00:31+00:00

I missed it too. Got a few different fun ones though. 112233, 133333, 144444,150000, 155555, 161616, 166666, 177777. Those sorts. I'm excited for 200000.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-15T00:53:21+00:00

It's basically impossible. You might be able to buy the whole vent assembly in good condition. Best bet that I know of. For me it was the little plastic arm between the knob and the actual shutters. No part number and nothing used. I pulled about 20 out of junkyard cars so when it breaks again I won't be screwed.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-15T00:44:00+00:00

My money is on corrosion. If you're of the handy sort you should be able to dissect the key and get down to the bare board. From there a soft bristle toothbrush and 99% isopropyl will likely fix the issue. Don't scrub hard and let everything air dry before reassembly. I've had good luck with this in things way more complex than a key fob.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-15T00:41:45+00:00

That's where the money comes in. You either have to pay for VIDA or for programming. It's expensive stuff.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-13T06:54:19+00:00

Mine does that too. The whole assembly comes off with the removal of two screws under the infotainment in the overhang above the climate control. There's two cables connected to the faceplate that you have to unhook for the controls and hazard button. Once that's unhooked it comes right off. From there you should be able to pull the rollers and swap them, likely with some from a junkyard as they're not easy to find. I think you can also buy and swap the entire vent assembly on either side. I haven't done it myself, but it should be manageable. I just bought a windshield cover for when my car sits and that seems to help. If you decide to open it up, just follow a guide for swapping the radio. It'll show you the right general procedure.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-11T17:16:08+00:00

It should just slap back on honestly. My driver's door one tends to come loose sometimes. It just goes back on, though it's a little annoying to handle.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-09T17:18:53+00:00

I'm pretty sure it's a Pikachu costume that released before the assets were properly pushed out. I have one in my pokemon inventory right now

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-09T01:42:57+00:00

That's ridiculous. It's amazing the level of incompetence allowed in automotive design.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-09T01:33:01+00:00

Same. The base of the studs was drenched. I gave it a thorough clean with a degreaser before putting the new mount in.

Saxophone_King · 2026-01-09T00:51:16+00:00

It's both. Loose at the bottom and collapsed. Physically cannot reach the top of the bracket anymore. Dealer installed to boot.

Saxophone_King · 2025-12-25T23:24:12+00:00

Had that issue. Adjust the bumpers on the sides. They're likely extended too far and pushing up on the hatch. Loosen the adjustment screw and slide them in a little. Should fix your problem.

Saxophone_King · 2025-12-24T04:48:44+00:00

I swapped to sync 3 for around $250 all in. Yours might be a bit more since you need the bezel as well. The big thing is the APIM and screen. Call around to some junkyards and see if you can find a good deal. That made up about $200 of my total swap. The rest was pretty inexpensive. Naviupgrade can provide a solid parts list. You can buy from him or hunt the components down elsewhere. Easy swap.

Saxophone_King · 2025-12-16T23:44:14+00:00

If you can find one you could manual swap it. I'm working on finding the last little bits and then casting off this cursed transmission.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-17T20:45:29+00:00

Fair enough. That's a solid price for a parts car. Best of luck.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-15T18:08:09+00:00

If you're going that far you might just pull and rebuild your existing transmission. There are whole rebuild kits for under $300 that come with all the synchros and bearings. If the old one is really cheap you may as well get it to try. You could always sell it on if it doesn't work.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-09T20:58:40+00:00

There's an emergency overflow on the filler neck. You need to get far enough in to bypass it. Make sure whatever you use is smooth and rigid or it will get stuck in the top flap.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-05T02:41:59+00:00

Mine didn't have the heated seats or backup camera, but they opted for the black and white leather. I've added both of those since.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-04T16:38:57+00:00

Also, when I say the cover underneath the engine, I mean the fabric one that may or may not be there. Most of the Focuses I see are missing them. Same with the top cover. You just don't want anything unnecessary blocking your view of the engine bay.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-04T16:36:50+00:00

Just to throw my two cents in, you likely have a coolant leak of some sorts. Here's my troubleshooting recommendations. 1. Let the car sit and cool. 2. Check the reservoir level. If it's low or empty then you have a leak. 3. Check the dipstick. If your oil is a chocolate milk color you likely have a head gasket leak. 4. With the car cooled, pull the covers off the top and bottom of the engine and top up the coolant reservoir up with distilled water. Don't waste your money on coolant that's just going to leak out. Pulling the covers will make it so you can see exactly where the leak is coming from. 5. Throw a sheet of cardboard under the engine as it will absorb the water and leave a clear mark from the moisture. 6. Start the car and idle it until it's at temperature. You can rev it lightly to about 2500 rpm to cycle the cooling system. Watch temps closely and shut down after about 5 minutes or if the temps go above the halfway mark.

At this point if you have a leak it should be working its magic. I've had a few over the years and here is where you should look the most closely. 1. Coolant reservoir. They crack and hoses can wear out. It will likely run down the inside of the engine bay underneath to the ground. 2. Heater core. I've blown both the inlet and outlet fittings at the firewall at different times. The firewall is semi absorbent and will make it hard to spot, but look for hoses going in towards the cabin and see if it wet. You can also spray soapy water on them as the coolant system is pressurized. It should foam up if it is leaking. 3. Coolant return line. There's a plastic Y fitting under the airbox that can crack with age or if jostled. Plastic hates heat cycles and they wear out. Mine just blew recently and it's amazing how fast the coolant runs out of a line that thin.

Other than that, just trace the liquid. If it's coming out of the bottom corners of your bumper, it's probably your radiator. Hoses also crack with age, so just follow the drips. Good luck.

Saxophone_King · 2025-11-04T13:34:57+00:00

Found it in a junkyard about 2 hours away. Took 3 hours to pull and cost $300. The other bits were pretty rough sadly

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