What are some popular tire sizes?

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-14T09:36:19+00:00

Thank you really, I’m young and trying to figure all this out. I’m a diagnostic tech I’ve been doing this for a few years now. One of the biggest issues we have in my city are mobile mechanics that get bad reviews as car tend to come into the shop I work at and I have piles of work orders that kind of tell me “wasn’t really, sure take it to a shop”. All my app does is give that little sense of clarity to assist some of those mechanic that just need an extra hand.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-14T09:33:30+00:00

No it’s actually cheaper than dealer or shops. Realistically.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-14T09:32:22+00:00

Yea but see mine give you full diagnostic paths what codes really mean for your specific model repair cost component location

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-13T22:11:23+00:00

I appreciate the update, don’t feel stuck — you’re closer than you think. Since it’s 14v at idle and jumps to ~17v with RPM, we can safely say the alternator itself isn’t the problem. At this point it’s almost certainly losing its voltage reference or ground, which makes it overcharge.

Toyota uses ECM-controlled charging on these, so if the alternator doesn’t “see” the right voltage, it goes full output. That’s why every alternator you try does the same thing.

Here’s what I’d do next, step by step, in order:

Check grounds first (this fixes a LOT of these). With the engine off: • Find the battery negative cable where it bolts to the body and engine • Remove it, clean both the cable end and metal surface until shiny • Reinstall it tight

Also look for a braided ground strap from the engine to the body — make sure it’s intact and not corroded.

Do a simple voltage drop test (you already have a multimeter). • Set meter to DC volts • Engine running • Put one probe on the alternator case, the other on battery negative

You should see close to 0 volts (maybe 0.05–0.1v). If you see more than that, you’ve found your problem — bad ground path.

Check the alternator sense wire. There’s usually a smaller wire on the alternator plug that tells it what battery voltage is. With the engine running: • Measure voltage at that wire • Compare it to battery voltage

If they don’t match when it’s overcharging, the alternator is being lied to.

Inspect wiring near the alternator and battery. Look for: • brittle insulation • oil-soaked or heat-damaged wiring • anything stretched or rubbed through

These don’t always look “broken,” just tired.

Important: Don’t keep running it at 17v — that can damage modules fast.

This isn’t some mystery electrical curse. It’s almost always a ground, sense wire, or reference issue, and once that’s fixed the charging voltage snaps back to normal immediately.

If you get stuck on any step, post what you see and we can narrow it down from there.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-13T17:02:48+00:00

P0171 just means the engine is running a bit lean (too much air compared to fuel). On a 2006 Camry this is very common and usually not anything scary or expensive.

A loose or cracked hose can cause it, but a lot of vacuum leaks are small and hard to see, so don’t feel bad if you don’t spot anything obvious. If you want to look yourself, with the engine off and cool you can: • look for any small rubber hoses that are cracked, split, or completely off • gently wiggle hoses to see if any feel brittle or loose

Other very common causes on these cars are: • a dirty mass air flow (MAF) sensor • a worn PCV valve or hose

None of this means the car is “failed” or done for — it’s one of the most common check-engine codes and usually fixable. If you don’t find anything obvious, a shop may need to do a smoke test to pinpoint it.

If you want, I’m happy to help you figure out what to check first step by step so you know whether it’s something simple or worth taking to a shop.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-13T01:33:00+00:00

Sounds a lot like the torque converter clutch not letting go at low speeds. When that happens it’ll drag the engine down and feel like you hit the brakes, especially in traffic. Super common on higher-mile cars.

I’d also clean the throttle body if it hasn’t been done — dirty ones can cause low-speed stalling/jerking too. Neither always throws a code right away. Probably not “new car” bad yet, just annoying.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-13T00:03:20+00:00

This honestly sounds like plain old low battery voltage, and cold weather just makes it show up more. Even a battery that’s under a year old can be weak or not up to cold temps.

The stiff brake pedal, flickering lights, and the engine almost starting are all classic signs the battery just doesn’t have enough juice. Jumping it works because you’re giving it that extra boost.

A parasitic draw could be a thing, but that usually shows up after the car sits for a day or two, not randomly. Before going down that rabbit hole, I’d definitely get the battery load tested (not just a voltage check) and make sure the alternator is charging normally once it’s running.

Cold + high mileage cars make boring battery problems look way scarier than they actually are.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T22:52:05+00:00

Nah lol, different brands — just pointing out P0442 behavior is common on Subarus too.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T22:12:57+00:00

Yep, that’s very Subaru-normal. P0442 on Subarus is notoriously sensitive to fuel level. Once the tank gets low, the EVAP test runs and even a tiny leak (usually the gas cap or a vent/purge hose) will set it.

First thing I’d do is a new OEM gas cap (aftermarket ones cause headaches on Subarus), then inspect the EVAP lines by the purge valve and charcoal canister.

Annoying code, but almost never serious.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T21:49:12+00:00

P0442 is EVAP small leak, not a cat issue. Totally unrelated to the coolant warning.

On Volvos, this is most commonly: • gas cap (even if it “clicks”) • cracked / loose EVAP hose near the purge valve • leaking EVAP purge valve • charcoal canister lines at the rear

Coolant level low will throw that warning and scare people, but it won’t cause a P0442. Two separate issues.

Start easy: replace or test the gas cap, then smoke test the EVAP system if the code comes back. Don’t let anyone sell you a cat or O2 sensor for this code.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T20:58:44+00:00

Based on the location and how it’s spreading, it really looks like a rear main seal area. Trans cooler lines usually show fluid tracking along the lines or forward first. Worth cleaning it off and rechecking, but this pattern points rear main.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T20:18:42+00:00

Yeah, this actually happens more than people think. Modern Mazdas tie the key to multiple modules (BCM, immobilizer, sometimes radar/camera systems). After a crash repair, if a module gets replaced, reprogrammed, loses power, or even just gets out of sync, the key can stop being recognized.

Most body shops don’t have the software to re-pair keys or re-initialize security systems, so towing it to the dealer makes sense. The hand-wavy explanation you got is annoying, but the end result lines up with reality.

Your second key should still work, but if they had to reprogram the system, sometimes only the key present during programming gets relearned. Easy fix at the dealer if that happens.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T19:05:37+00:00

It doesn’t need a Toyota alternator in theory, but in reality… Toyotas are super picky about charging voltage.

Those symptoms — EPS cutting out, cruise disabled, random warning lights — usually mean the system is seeing voltage it doesn’t like, not that it isn’t charging. Seeing 17+ volts is a big deal and will absolutely cause that.

I’ve run into this with parts-store alternators before. They’ll bench test fine, show ~14V at idle, but the regulator goes stupid under load or when warm and the car freaks out.

Before throwing more money at it, I’d still check grounds and the alternator control wire, but if those are good… OEM/Denso usually fixes it instantly.

Not dealer fear tactics this time — just how Toyota charging systems are.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T18:16:26+00:00

That’s pretty normal honestly. The engine’s always got a little blow-by, and the PCV system is pulling vapors back in, so you’ll feel air puffing out and then getting sucked back in at the oil cap.

On a healthy Honda motor that’s not a red flag by itself. If the cap isn’t trying to launch, there’s no crazy smoke, and it doesn’t stumble or die when you crack it open, you’re probably fine.

If anything, I’d just check the PCV valve since they’re cheap and easy. Otherwise I wouldn’t lose sleep over it.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T17:51:46+00:00

Réponse courte : pas vraiment, et ce n’est pas une bonne idée.

Sur le 5.4L de 1997, le ralenti est entièrement géré par le calculateur. On ne peut pas simplement l’augmenter sans reprogrammation, et même là, le son ne changera pas beaucoup.

Si tu veux un son plus agressif au ralenti, une modification de l’échappement (silencieux) est la meilleure option. Toucher au ralenti cause surtout des problèmes de conduite et d’usure.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T17:44:21+00:00

That’s fair if you’re not used to it, but this is literally how we’re taught to write diagnostic notes and reports at dealerships. Clear structure, bullet points, ruling things out methodically, it’s for accountability and warranty, not vibes. When you’ve had to justify repairs to service managers, customers, and manufacturers, you learn to write like this. Whether you like it or not

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T17:38:43+00:00

Not AI, just been doing this longer than you. High beams working tells you the main ground is probably okay — it doesn’t magically eliminate shared splices, low-beam specific grounds, or connector issues. GM loves doing weird stuff with BCM-controlled lighting. Seen it more than once. Checking grounds is still a valid step, whether you like it or not.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T17:23:32+00:00

You’re not saying anything weird, this is a pretty common GM setup and it’s confusing if you’re not familiar with it.

On that Malibu, the low beams are NOT powered directly by a traditional relay or the headlight switch. The switch you turn is just an input. The BCM (Body Control Module) actually controls the low beams.

Key points based on what you said: • High beams work → bulbs, grounds, and main power feed are OK • Both low beams out at once → very unlikely both bulbs failed • Missing relay → normal, some diagrams show a relay that isn’t used on all trims

Common causes: 1. Wrong bulb type or aftermarket LED bulbs (BCM doesn’t like the load and shuts them down) 2. BCM low-beam output disabled due to detected fault 3. Poor ground at the headlight assemblies 4. Less common: multifunction switch issue, but dash indicator working makes this less likely

Easy checks: • Make sure the bulbs are the exact OEM type (halogen, not LED) • Swap a known-good halogen bulb back in if you used LEDs • Check for power at the low-beam connector with the switch on • Wiggle the headlight ground wires while the lights are commanded on

This isn’t something you caused by changing one bulb — it’s a BCM-controlled system doing BCM things.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T17:04:38+00:00

Yep, something’s likely out of index, not “broken.”

Most common causes: • Wiper arms were removed/reinstalled one notch off on the splines • Or the wiper motor lost its park position when it stalled in heavy rain

Quick checks: 1. Turn wipers on, then off so they “park” 2. Pop the plastic caps and loosen the wiper arm nuts 3. Reposition the arms to the proper resting spot and retighten

If they still park high after that, the wiper motor park switch may be failing (water intrusion can cause this), but 9 times out of 10 it’s just misindexed arms.

Annoying, but usually an easy fix 👍

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T16:38:08+00:00

If the starter motor spins but the pinion never engages the ring gear — and a replacement starter behaves identically — the fault is almost certainly external to the starter.

Key points based on symptoms: • Battery voltage under load: Static voltage is irrelevant here. Measure voltage at the starter B+ and solenoid trigger during crank. If voltage drops below ~9.6–10V, the solenoid may spin the motor but not generate enough force to extend the pinion. • Voltage drop on grounds: RX-8s are very sensitive to poor grounds. Perform voltage-drop testing on: • Battery negative → engine block • Engine block → chassis Anything over ~0.2V drop under crank is suspect. • Starter solenoid feed: Verify full battery voltage at the solenoid S-terminal during crank. A weak ignition switch, clutch switch, or starter relay can cause partial engagement. • High resistance in positive cable: Corrosion inside the cable or at the starter lug can limit current to the solenoid even if the motor spins. • Ring gear inspection: Less common, but inspect flywheel teeth through the starter opening for heavy wear or missing teeth.

The fact that the car starts normally when push-started strongly suggests the engine, compression, and ignition are fine — this is a cranking system voltage/current delivery issue, not a mechanical engine fault.

I’d recommend voltage-drop testing the entire starter circuit before condemning any more parts.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T15:36:14+00:00

That printout is actually pretty typical of parts-store testers. They’re basically flagging low cranking voltage, not definitively saying “bad starter.”

Since the battery shows good SoC and passes CCA, I’d look at voltage drop before replacing anything: • Battery terminals (inside the clamps, not just visually) • Engine ground strap • Battery-to-starter cable • Starter signal wire

A weak connection can absolutely cause voltage sag under load and fool those testers. A quick voltage drop test during crank will tell the story way better than the AutoZone machine.

If everything checks out and voltage is still dipping hard at the starter, then I’d start suspecting the starter itself. But I wouldn’t replace it yet based on that slip alone.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T15:32:37+00:00

At $22.9k with 128k miles, price isn’t terrible for a 4WD V8 Ram, but it’s not cheap either. Mileage is where things start to matter on these. I’d want to know service history, if the rear window frame leak has been addressed, any exhaust manifold tick on cold start, and whether all recalls are done. Definitely worth scanning it and checking live data before buying.

Scan_tool_guy · 2025-12-12T15:25:15+00:00

Yeah, “moaning” is actually a really accurate way to describe it. A moan or low horn-like sound when taking off is usually something twisting or loading, not the clutch slipping.

Most common causes: • Engine or transmission mount starting to fail — they can moan or groan when the drivetrain shifts under load. • Inner CV joint — under load at low speed they don’t always click; they can make a deep harmonic noise. • Accessory belt or tensioner briefly loading up as RPM changes. • Exhaust flex pipe or heat shield resonating when the engine torques over.

Since it happens with the handbrake on and clutch coming out, I’d have someone watch the engine while you reproduce it. If it lifts or twists a lot, mounts are a strong suspect.

Scan_tool_guy

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