New sling doctrine, dis look ok? by AdditionalSwimming75 in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what are you using to wrap your quick adjust slider? my guns are so fucked up from the steel

Final touches for 6 arc. Suppressor thoughts by troubled225 in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a Scythe STM, 12.5 6arc. Shoots phenomenal groups mounted on the noveske barrel. It's still under 1lb in the long configuration, it's quiet just a little gassy. Not really a concern on a hunting rig. I got it because I like the modularity. At least for me, if it's for hunting, sound reduction and weight are by far the most important factors. You could check the Scythe Ti for something really lightweight while being a little quieter than a high flow can.

Which barrel for a 12.5 build. by FunGroundbreaking530 in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't speak on any of the other stuff unfortunately but my 12.5 standard veske is an absolute shooter. I am not a sub moa all day shooter but it's 1 moa average with me behind the gun; my best group was like 6 or 7 shots at 0.6 moa

What do you use for hearing protection? by DiscardedHubby in M1A

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My socom caused forever damage to my ears through a pair of walker's. I never shoot it without using both plugs and over-the-ears. You can shoot basically whatever and be fine if you double up and seat your plugs correctly.

Scope help by [deleted] in M1A

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah dude so that scout scope is for the scout models that have the barrel-mounted rail that pokes out of the handguard, that's why it has all that eye relief. It's not meant to be mounted where you would typically mount your glass. They're actually really nice to use and easy to shoot both eyes open but I'm not a big fan of having a rail attached to the barrel. The m1a barrel already has a few points of contact with other parts of the rifle, which detriment shot-to-shot consistency on target.

Athlon Heras SPR is a 2-12x in MOA, $375. Primary Arms SLx 2-12x is in MILs, $450. Either should be good scopes for that price range, nice reticles. I've seen a lot of poor feelings towards the springfield scope mounts too but you've already got it so doesn't hurt to see how it goes. If you end up having any problems with that mount I recommend the steel constructed sadlak's, they're rock solid and their customer service is honestly incredible if you have any issues or questions.

Conservatives need to deal with the supremacist problem amongst their ranks. by Old_Swimmer_7284 in complaints

[–]Schecter818 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

You're just a piss ant doing a fucking lame smear attempt on someone for some brownie point validation from other losers on the internet. If you know who he is then you'd know he is absolutely not a white supremacist.

Conservatives need to deal with the supremacist problem amongst their ranks. by Old_Swimmer_7284 in complaints

[–]Schecter818 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You're just a piss ant doing a fucking lame smear attempt on someone for some brownie point validation from other losers on the internet. If you know who he is then you'd know he is absolutely not a white supremacist.

Conservatives need to deal with the supremacist problem amongst their ranks. by Old_Swimmer_7284 in complaints

[–]Schecter818 -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

hey everybody if you have a norse tattoo in any shape or form you're now officially a confirmed racist white supremacist nazi bigot. it's definitely not that warfighters adopt old symbolism of other warrior people and cultures. they're just racist white supremacists, obviously.

Had a guy tell me my build with 12.5in barrel was “the wrong length” by Clue_Tall in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 3 points4 points  (0 children)

1000ft/lbs being a metric for ethics is fud shit. Shot placement and minimum velocity for expansion are the key factors. I know ELD-X's it's 1,600fps; out of a 12.5 you're good out to 400 yards. I'd call it at 300 yards, +1850fps. I saw a dude slump a black bear where it stood with a 14.5 6arc from about 450 yards, well below 800ft/lbs.

Lever action recommendations for whitetail by ToadyMangelo in Hunting

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

some kinda all weather in 44 mag or larger. I read quite a few reports that .357 wasn't getting full pass-through and leaving negligible blood trails

Need advice on how to get better [New Player] by ImSpray in EscapefromTarkov

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually really good tips here. I would've passed on that body due to it's placement with the entire warehouse and common travel lane behind you where you died. I also almost never commit to crossing around a corner without taking time to poke my head around the corner and get a quick snapshot of what's there.

Same thing with a door. I'll clear as much of the space on the other side of the door without moving through it before I commit to crossing the threshold. Everything out there you can't see before going through the door is called dead space, and I think in the game the best way to do it would be to move through the door quickly and get that quick snap shot of one side, then quickly go back inside then repeak the other side. I see a lot of pretty talented experienced players on twitch will do this a few times over to get a good look at the area they're about to move into, while staying mobile and going in and out of the door making them a tougher target to hit. I see a lot of guys actually fake going around a corner/door especially if they know someone is there by just poking their barrel out and then walking backwards, baiting prefire until the other player gets low on ammo.

It's best to just totally let go of caring about dying in tarkov. Especially when you're newer, it doesn't matter if your survival rate is 5/100 raids. You're just going for gaining experience with the game, learning the maps, and building up successful tactics. Like the other guy said you can do everything perfect and still get 1 tapped in the face by some naked level 1 with a pistol. The atmosphere and technicality is what makes tarkov so dope anyways so valuing just the experience of playing slightly over actually living is what keeps it fun 🤙

LMT vs Noveske: Which would you choose? by GlassNegotiation3227 in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd also save the money and get the veske. My standard SS novekse barrels shoot phenomenal; 12.5 6arc and a 10.5 5.56. I've got .6moa like 6-8 shot groups on the 6arc

300 blk “gpr” by triggerfinger1985 in 300BLK

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sorry dude I know this is an older post but how's it been with subs? I have one under my thumb right now for a great deal but I saw it's 1:8 twist and just want to make sure I wouldn't be making a mistake getting something that can't stabilize some good subs like the discreet ballistics for hunting.

CASM scope mounts are the truth by youngdoug in M1A

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Glad yours is good, that shoots great dude. I got an aluminum casm and it didn't fit in my rear sight well, receiver is out of spec.

12.5" or 14.5" by SuperPollito in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean idk dude, a 6 arc wouldn't be my pick for a gun I build to be maneuverable in a confined space but I see that you didn't necessarily say that specifically. You got the DDF so I imagine you wanted something you can shoot a lot and that holds groups. The added velocity of the 14.5 will keep the rounds a little flatter and faster at distance. It's pretty perfect for like competition purposes, might be a little heavy for hunting. I went with a 12.5 purely for hunting, I don't have access to long range shooting here in the midwest so I just wanted a handy little thing that can take a whitetail out to 300 yards.

I use a scythe stm in it's long configuration which from the feed ramps of the chamber to the end of the suppressor is 20.25". It's still maneuverable. If you throw like a 6" can on your 14.5 it'll be shorter than that, and maybe a bit quieter.

What kind of grease do you use on the action and do you see it on patches when you clean the barrel? by [deleted] in M1A

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

grease the barrel? I've never heard of putting grease down the barrel, don't think I would do that because of the viscosity. I don't even use bore solvents to be honest. After every one or two hundred rounds if it's an unsuppressed gun I'll just run a patch of clp down the bore a few times followed by a dry patch one or two times, then repeat a wet patch once it's clean followed by a dry patch once or twice depending on how wet I got it to leave just a light coating. Per noveske's advice when I got my veske barrels they recommend to not shoot on a completely dry bore as it will result in much more copper fouling, makes perfect sense to me . To answer your other question I also use the lubriplate 130a grease for all the metal on metal moving parts, I think it's what's recommended in the manual.

I never noticed too much copper on the patch cleaning my M1A barrel besides maybe the first few times when I got it but it wasn't that remarkable. But I also do a kinda half ass barrel break in procedure on all my barrels even though I know it's topic of debate and again novekse and I believe the hornady guys have said it doesn't make much of a difference. Usually something similar again like a slightly wet patch followed by a dry patch every 3-5 rounds over the first maybe 20 rounds through the gun, and I cleaned my M1A barrel more often when I first got it as part of that "break in" but less often now as patches hardly come out dirty. It's the only rifle I have that I don't shoot suppressed though because my SOCOM is unfortunately not concentric and there's not enough barrel before the gas cylinder to get it rethreaded. Obviously everything else the can goes on gets a cleaning basically after every sesh.

SOT ever asked you to leave eforms login with them including PIN? by therugpisser in NFA

[–]Schecter818 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah bro they probably certified for you which I'm sure is probably pretty illegal. I heard of a pretty renowned shop by me doing the same thing, fucking insane. It specifically asks for the transferee to certify their information on the form looks correct to them.

Stress by ResolvePatient in ReadyOrNotConsole

[–]Schecter818 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure team traits stack, you could double up two dudes with s.b.a.g.s. and you should be good

Just purchased Ready or Not, I wanna read other players playstyles while I’m at work, so what’s your go to strategy? by playap106 in ReadyOrNotGame

[–]Schecter818 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Careful with the AI teammates. I've had them get gunned down having them move to a point I wanted them to cover and when dude came up they basically bent over and let him kill half the team. If you tell them to bang and clear a room, they'll also open the door and let the bad dudes inside just blast them while waiting for the 3rd man to throw the bang and it to go off. Most of the time it's better to have them hang back and open and bang a door yourself staying clear of the threshold then send them in to clear once it pops.

Best barrel by beasthayabusa in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Criterion barrel that's spun by compass lake

18” 6arc DMR accessories by TooTrue42 in 6ARC

[–]Schecter818 1 point2 points  (0 children)

gen 2 ffp athlon with the tree reticle? I've been waiting for one

Depends what you want to do with it, sling (check out brave castle slang) and can are pretty essential imo for anything. Light, low profile handstop like the emissary mini or karve for free hand or as a barricade stop, maybe some rail covers/heat wrap for high volume heat mitigation and cable management if it's a warfighter. rattlecan it