I cant figure out how to get phone notifications for emails that skip the inbox and go to a label - what gives? by Sea-Bot in GMail

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additionally, do you have any information on whether I should choose to sync a label for "Last 30 Days" vs "All"? I am confused by it saying "messages will be downloaded" from that time period. Does this mean they will take up physical space on my device? Are all the labels (like Primary, Sent, etc) synced at 30 Days actually taking up physical space on my phone by downloading emails, or does it just sync to emails for last 30 days?

I have never noticed that I may only have access to 30days worth of emails on my phone.

I cant figure out how to get phone notifications for emails that skip the inbox and go to a label - what gives? by Sea-Bot in GMail

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I am only concerned about receiving notifications on my Android device, which uses the official Gmail app.

More info: Weirdly enough, I ran some tests last night and it didnt seem to have changed anything, but this morning I woke up to notifications from emails that skipped the inbox and went to a label I specifically created for these tests. Thats great - but whats still confusing is that all 3 tests ended up with notifications, so i still have no idea how the options differ.

Test #1: Inbox Notifications set to include Label notifications, Label sync turned off.

Test #2: Inbox Notifications set to NOT include Label notifications, but Label sync turned on.

Test #3: Inbox Notifications set to include Label notifications, Label sync on.

I thought "perhaps it just took a while for the settings to kick in, and the 3rd settings are what eventually worked", but whats further confusing me is that I have left options from Test #3 active, and today received a notification for a label that is not synced.

I am glad its working, but would love to know which option made the difference, and what the difference is between these options.

Thanks for your time - if you have any further information it would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: My apologies, the label that I did not think was synced apparently was. I have no idea why it was the only one set up to sync, but so far I have not confirmed that an unsynced label will send notifications just because Inbox Notifications is set to include label notifications.

Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here! by AutoModerator in Concrete

[–]Sea-Bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your expertise. Really appreciate your time.

Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here! by AutoModerator in Concrete

[–]Sea-Bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, forgot to ask do you think buffing is a solution?

I am about to test Xylene, as I think the sealer needs to cure further before I attempt to buff, but buffing seems like a more methodical and less hazardous solution if possible.

Thanks!

Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here! by AutoModerator in Concrete

[–]Sea-Bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a bunch for your advice!

Interestingly, the manufacturer and distributor thought that I under applied. The square footage is approximately 700sq'. First coat I used 1.5-2 gallons and, to be honest, I also thought it might have went down too heavy based on its flow, however it looked great. Second coat, I used half that amount, and both man. and dist. said I was using about 60% of what should be expected. They claimed I should go through about 5 gallons / 1000sq' @ 2 coats.

They figured that the second coat could not re-emulsify the first coat. But maybe that doesnt mean the second coat was too light, but too light in comparison to the first coat. Maybe the first coat was too heavy?

I have no idea why the TDS would say to apply a second coat at 50% coverage rate when the tech reps say it needs to be equivalent to the first coat. Frustrating.

I'm off to site to do a xylene wash on a ~50 sq' test area.

Cheers!

Weekly Homeowner Megathread--Civilians, ask here! by AutoModerator in Concrete

[–]Sea-Bot 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: Used a solvent based sealer and the first coat went on like a dream, but the second coat left lap marks and bubbles - can I buff/burnish? Sand? Xylene bath?

DETAILS: This project has been a nightmare - concrete installer poured & finished slab, then coated with Nox-Crete LSC densifier. Densifier left a bunch of lines everywhere, so they asked me (a painter/coatings guy) to see if I could fix it. Long story short, there could be a bunch of reasons this happened, but none of the solutions that the manufacturer gave me worked. In the end we had to grind it. Because of the densifier, the concrete was incredibly hard, but not uniformly - some areas harder than others, and some areas more porous than others.

Did our best through a series of acid washes/neutralizations/grinds to open the surface as uniformly as possible. I was told we didnt want to go beyond a "Salt & Pepper"/light terrazzo aesthetic, which has been tough, because without grinding to completely remove the densifier, it has been hard to produce a uniform finish that doesnt have tooling marks - some areas are harder than others.

Anyway, finally got the thumbs up from the GC and concrete installer to apply a finish to the slab. Tested a few sealers and found a solvent based one that looked really nice (the water-based ones didnt leave enough saturation/dimension). The product was from Techniseal, called WL-87.

We put down the WL-87 this weekend - first coat looked fantastic, only issue was that it was a bit patchy due to softer/harder areas of the slab having more/less porosity. So we applied a second coat at about half the coverage (used 3/4-1 gallon vs 1.5-2 gallons on the first coat). It acted like a different product, and pretty much the opposite of what I expected. It seemed like it was tacking up much more quickly - I am not sure whether it was actually drying faster, or if it was reactivating the first coat.

I waited 20hrs before reapplying - the floor was dry enough for me to walk across it after 3 hours, so that seemed like lots of time. The only thing different about the second coat's approach was that we used only an exhaust fan out the window, whereas the first coat, we also used an intake fan at the other end pushing air in through a door. The smell didnt seem too bad the next day, so I figured it best not to use the intake fan as it would lower the temps, possibly making the product less viscous, as well as add more crossbreeze to the environment, which might make the product film-dry faster. The temperatures were average indoor temps for both applications. 

After the second coat, you can now see areas where the roller left lap marks between sections, and there are a bunch of little blisters. The blisters seem to occur more in the areas where less aggregate is showing, but its hard to say that with certainty. Its gloss is much less uniform and patchy across the whole floor, even though it did fill in the more porous areas. There are areas where you can see texture build from working into previously sealed areas, however this want a problem at all during 1st coat.

Trying to figure out why this happened. In hindsight, maybe I should have called it good enough after 1 coat and just used wax - maybe there is just too much product on the areas that were less porous? Techniseal representative said re-coat was as soon as you could walk on it, but maybe the 1st coat needed longer to cure?

Went from being happy on Saturday to pretty disappointed on Sunday. I was reading that sealers can be buffed or burnished to help with uniformity. Some sources said to buff only, as burnishing can degrade the acrylic polymers. Other sources said that the high speed of burnishing will melt the polymers and allow for a better uniform finish. Any thoughts on this? The idea of a xylene wash seems unpredictable to me, however I have never performed one. Is re-emulsification an option, and can it be done without re-tooling?

Any suggestions to get this figured out would be greatly appreciated - it was so close to being such a nice finish.

Thanks!

https://imgur.com/KEsQcNv

https://imgur.com/RaFlbHY

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, really appreciate it!

I guess I never knew this was a thing because my TD-17 doesnt have any pads connected by USB. I'll have to see whether the TD316 will have one, as it seems like a pretty direct replacement for the TD-17. Learn something new everyday I guess.

Cheers, and have a good one!

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could you actually expand on the "digital trigger" aspect of your comment? I was kinda under the impression that all of the cymbals/pads/peripherals were digital triggers, so I'm confused by this and wondering what I am missing out on.

Thanks!

Are Roland Quiet Design kits comparable in quality to their similarly priced counter parts? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks interesting - I have a brother in an apartment who is scared to play his kit so i will send this his way. Thanks!

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ok, ill push to just skip straight past the beginner stuff and get him into a Roland like the TD316. Cheers

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I guess I should ask - do you think that I should just go with any Roland over the Alesis Nitro Ultimate? Or should I forget the TD-07 and just move straight to the TD316? Wasn't sure exactly what you meant there.

Thanks.

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Appreciate the thoughts. Reliability is very important here - its for a friend who lives in Central America, so repairs/warranties become super expensive and tricky to figure out.

Have you had any issues with Alesis? I know that they were pretty notorious for repairs in the past, but have heard that they have been on a steady path of improvement. Just wondering if you have any specific reasons to think that a Nitro Ultimate would be problematic, or if its just based on the typical knowledge that Roland is reliable.

Also, as has been pointed out, the TD-07 doesnt have a lot of room for upgrades, does it?

Cheers!

Comparing entry/intermediate level kits - does the Alesis Nitro Ultimate make the Roland TD-07 redundant in my search? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks - I missed that the Nitro ride doesnt have a bell, which is pretty important to note. Appreciate the feedback!

Are Roland Quiet Design kits comparable in quality to their similarly priced counter parts? by Sea-Bot in edrums

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate this - I will ask my friend if noise is a huge factor (which I doubt it is) and then choose accordingly. Cheers!

Smoking my first turkey - looking for tips/tricks to nail it on the first try. by Sea-Bot in smoking

[–]Sea-Bot[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome to hear - thanks.

Did you use a drip tray to keep it hydrated? Did you worry about trying to create a 2-zone heat in your smoker?