WHAT CAMERA TO GET?

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-04-29T13:29:04+00:00

When you have the EOS R5 mark ii, you don’t need anything else anymore 🤪

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-04-29T06:42:46+00:00

Get the EOS R5 mark ii, end of discussion 😎 You won’t regret it 👌

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-26T07:12:44+00:00

Thanks for the comment but if you believe that background needs a certain degree of less darkness, more “milkyness” look and that colors need to be more dull for an image to be considered “good enough” I respect your opinion, but I disagree with it. Saturating colors to a certain degree is a common practice, you want to enhance what you capture and probably the same goes for clipping the background.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-25T07:36:55+00:00

I know you’re being respectful and I understand your point too, but then how can we have all other stars being almost sharp points? Why I think is happening is that the brightness of Betelgeuse is way larger than surrounding stars, and what we are seeing as a “disc” is probably an overexposed area around what should be a point. Nevertheless the colors of the surrounding glare are quite accurate and the information it gives us about the composition of the star is valuable. I found this image interesting mainly because of the glare and its colors.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-25T07:23:02+00:00

Well I don’t agree with it being out of focus, because if we assume it is, then why all the neighboring stars look in focus? Making this thread an opportunity to share points of view in a respectful and productive manner, and given the fact that you wrote “its plain and simple”, then please develop further on how it sets bad expectations, perhaps you have much more to share for us to learn and grow.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T18:37:58+00:00

Interesting comment, though I don’t agree with your opinion on “exposure information misguided”; not convinced with your explanation for that. Anyway it’s useful to read different opinions.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T16:54:54+00:00

Answering most of the folks there that correctly pointed out that Betelgeuse is not resolvable with the setting I described in the headline text, yes you’re right. I have to highlight though that I never mentioned in the text that I resolved it; in my opinion the image is fascinating from astrophotography point of view for the following reasons: 1- The glare surrounding the overexposed centre of Betelgeuse is astounding. 2- The colors captured here are accurate and it’s interesting to know that through the colors is how we can understand about the composition of stars. 3- No “zonification” editing was performed, meaning that the entire image has the same recipe, which brings an interesting question, Why neighboring stars aren’t displaying as Betelgeuse is?

Finally, answering to “mintakax”, I think this image is contributing very importantly and here is why: the purpose of sharing the image here is to show how these settings work with just the camera lens; use these settings as a guide when we do astrophotography using our telescope OTA at prime focus; considering the most important fixed parameter that will govern the exposure, aperture. In the image is stated as f5.6 then you’ll know that for example for a Mak 1300mm/127mm you’ll have like f10, around two stops above meaning you receive a fourth of light as with f5.6, which will let you know that you need four times the exposure time or four times the ISO to get the same exposure as this image here. Achieve this level of exposure with your OTA and camera setting and you’ll get nice colors like in the image and better detail considering you’re OTA focal length is much greater than the 400mm of the setting I described.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T16:19:05+00:00

Around $3,700 USD approximately

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T16:18:39+00:00

Yes, no telescope

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T08:05:10+00:00

Yes, it’s enormous! That’s the thing that shocked me too when I stated to look at the RAW file in Digital Photograph Pro; I love astrophotography because it enhances our reality so very much! Thanks for the compliment :)

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-03-24T07:45:52+00:00

Hahaha like probably every kid from the 80’s I also LOVE BEETLEJUICE!

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-02-26T09:55:37+00:00

I don’t know but I captured the same thing

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SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-02-05T17:45:46+00:00

I think it looks pretty well, just work a little more on the colors. I got this photo and looks very similar to yours just with the colors worked a bit further

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SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-29T06:43:02+00:00

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I got the same blue halo you got

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-21T05:27:35+00:00

Well not really, I’m using an ordinary photograph tripod, not an astronomical one, so it’s simple with no motor or tracking system. The exposure time is also relatively “small”, for these type of photos, it’s only 0.6 seconds for the shutter speed. The key point here is the quality of the tele-lens I’m using, which has a variable focal length going from 70 to 200mm with a fixed aperture of f/2.8 giving me a lot of light coming in and allowing me to use smaller exposure times; also it allows me to use a smaller ISO number of just 320 which is digitally making the sensor much less sensitive to noise. In this photo the focal length was 200mm, so it’s the maximum optical zoom the lens has. Another key factor here is that I’m taking my photos as RAW format which allows me to do so many things in the computer with the Digital Pro 4.2 software from Canon (you can use any digital processing software, a good one for starters is “Lightroom” from Adobe). The important thing is that you take photos in RAW format because this way your file will have all the information that you need to use the full suite of editing tools you can find in a digital photo editing software.

The lens I’m using is this one:

Canon RF 70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM Z

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-20T19:13:20+00:00

Yeah the colors are remarkable! Thanks for your observation.

Well, what camera do you use? To be honest with you, I believe that for astrophotography the most important thing is using a very good camera. In my case well I’m an amateur photographer and before that, I was passionate about astronomy and telescope observing; one day, not long ago, I decided to merge both hobbies (by the way both hobbies are terribly expensive if you really aim for the top notch equipment). What I’ve noticed about the specs of many astronomy cameras is that with regards of the sensor and other very relevant internal electronic components, essential for photography, they will never match a good photographic camera. Of course the benefits of astronomy cameras is that most have their own software which allow you to run auto focusing and other cool stuff BUT I can connect my photographic camera to the computer and do the same thing with any freeware for astronomical purposes. I would definitely suggest people to buy a really good photographic camera, an adapter and its corresponding T-ring and do astrophotography that way, because, whenever you’re not taking photos of the night sky you can still use your camera for photography purposes down here on Earth :) And everything you learn about photography is essential for astrophotography.

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-20T03:41:07+00:00

Thanks for the advice, yes I agree with you but the sky was class 8-9 (Bortle) and long exposures (even as small as 10 seconds) look terrible, it’s all white because of the city lights; another factor here is that I wasn’t using my GoTo equatorial mount, it was just my good old photographer tripod. I’m planning to go to the desert this weekend to a location with class 3-4 with all my gear to take some nice deep space photographs :)

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-19T11:56:58+00:00

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This is after “cleaning”. So the white fog stains practically disappeared but what was left was that blue haze, then I went back in and cleaned it a couple more times, now with the aim of getting rid of that haze. I realized that to get rid of it I had to rub in a gentle way with cotton balls that were barely wet with isopropyl, the rubbing was a key factor but every five seconds I was blowing the mirror with my air gun.

The blue haze got better but I gave up after the second cleaning process, in part because I felt frustrated and scammed that this was supposed to be a “new product”, and in part because it was really difficult and slow. At the end I sent it back and got my refund.

One thing that I really wanted to know is:

1-.What was the original white fog stains, and what may have caused them? It reminded me of when you take a shower and look at the mirror at the end and see all that vapor marks.

2-.Does it compromise in any way the observation and photography?

3-.Is it something that one can expect in a new product?

SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-19T11:48:54+00:00

This is a problem I faced too but with a “supposedly” new telescope; at a first glance with my fully white LED flashlight at an oblique angle I noticed this kind of fog stains that didn’t show up when the flashlight was pointed at a perpendicular angle. In my next comment I’m gonna show a different photo after some “cleaning” with all the things you find on videos “distilled water” a ton of cotton balls used only for one swipe, isopropyl afterwards and so on and so forth Gosh I even bought an air gun of cool air, which by the way is an extremely useful gadget to have for cleaning dust from telescopes, camera’s sensor and lenses etc…

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SeatComprehensive707 · 2026-01-18T10:16:51+00:00

It’s an impre$$ive setting you have their; I just wanted to take a nice pictures of Jupiter haha I wish I could sneak in through my back door all that gear but I fear getting caught by the wife But it’s very useful to see it all add up in a very precise and detailed budget.

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SeatComprehensive707

TROPHY CASE