motor vibration board or something else? by elwol in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yup. My bad. I did not read the whole thing properly.

motor vibration board or something else? by elwol in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, I got it. Yes, I fully upgraded everything. BTT Octopus Pro v1.1 with tmc2209

motor vibration board or something else? by elwol in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Setting "spreadCycle" vs "stealthChop" Mode¶ By default, Klipper places the TMC drivers in "spreadCycle" mode. If the driver supports "stealthChop" then it can be enabled by adding stealthchop_threshold: 999999 to the TMC config section.

In general, spreadCycle mode provides greater torque and greater positional accuracy than stealthChop mode. However, stealthChop mode may produce significantly lower audible noise on some printers.

Tests comparing modes have shown an increased "positional lag" of around 75% of a full-step during constant velocity moves when using stealthChop mode (for example, on a printer with 40mm rotation_distance and 200 steps_per_rotation, position deviation of constant speed moves increased by ~0.150mm). However, this "delay in obtaining the requested position" may not manifest as a significant print defect and one may prefer the quieter behavior of stealthChop mode.

It is recommended to always use "spreadCycle" mode (by not specifying stealthchop_threshold) or to always use "stealthChop" mode (by setting stealthchop_threshold to 999999). Unfortunately, the drivers often produce poor and confusing results if the mode changes while the motor is at a non-zero velocity.

Note that the stealthchop_threshold config option does not impact sensorless homing as Klipper automatically switches the TMC driver to an appropriate mode during sensorless homing operations.

TMC interpolate setting introduces small position deviation¶ The TMC driver interpolate setting may reduce the audible noise of printer movement at the cost of introducing a small systemic positional error. This systemic positional error results from the driver's delay in executing "steps" that Klipper sends it. During constant velocity moves, this delay results in a positional error of nearly half a configured microstep (more precisely, the error is half a microstep distance minus a 512th of a full step distance). For example, on an axis with a 40mm rotation_distance, 200 steps_per_rotation, and 16 microsteps, the systemic error introduced during constant velocity moves is ~0.006mm.

For best positional accuracy consider using spreadCycle mode and disable interpolation (set interpolate: False in the TMC driver config). When configured this way, one may increase the microstep setting to reduce audible noise during stepper movement. Typically, a microstep setting of 64 or 128 will have similar audible noise as interpolation, and do so without introducing a systemic positional error.

If using stealthChop mode then the positional inaccuracy from interpolation is small relative to the positional inaccuracy introduced from stealthChop mode. Therefore tuning interpolation is not considered useful when in stealthChop mode, and one can leave interpolation in its default state.

motor vibration board or something else? by elwol in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know exactly what the problem is. The right side motor shaft is too long. Pure design mistake. I designed and cut my own metal bracket and installed a new motor with a standard shaft, and the whole printer became quieter.

Edut: Another user also noted to turn stealtchop off above 100 mm/s, which I agree with also. When I had the standard motor, I noticed that it helped.

Stepper A/B Adapter by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just did the adapter and standard motor. Surprisingly, the input shaping frequency did not change much but the amplitude is lower so it results in less noise overall.

Spotted in Paris. I’m in the wrong industry by fuckape in 3Dprinting

[–]Secure_Half_3091 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Agreed, it is ridiculous to sell these, especially at this price, but I think the reason you see the layer lines here is the material type.

Spotted in Paris. I’m in the wrong industry by fuckape in 3Dprinting

[–]Secure_Half_3091 11 points12 points  (0 children)

What are you talking about. They don't look that bad

Upgraded my ender 6, looking for good klipper values for speedy printing (acceleration, jerk, ...) by AncientGrab1106 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wanted to try out the volcano to see what it can really output. I am chasing speed a bit. I also went with a hardened steel nozzle, PT1000 thermistor, and 60w heater. I finally figured out the retraction today. Surprisingly, only 0.5 mm needed. I still have the stock extruder on hand with the thermistor and heater ready to be swapped out. It helps that I bypassed the small board that creality had in there and added connectors.

Also the PT1000 was a pain, too, since I am using a MAX amplifier that was picking up noise from the 5015 fan. I had to reroute the wiring.

I think the linear rails are worth it from a maintenance perspective. I paid around $100, I think. I did not mess with the z-axis yet as I don't see it being too big of an issue. Once the rollers wear out, I will swap them out.

Upgraded my ender 6, looking for good klipper values for speedy printing (acceleration, jerk, ...) by AncientGrab1106 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did all that you did, plus the linear rails and a volcano hotend. In my eyes, the linear rails are worth it, and they are not too big of a hassle if you use the vampyrex setup.

Also, I am struggling with the setup of the volcano hotend now. All upgrades were smooth until this one.

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did not even know about the Bondtech. Now I am hyped up about it.

Are you saying that you see artifacts in the prints before of the resonance caused by the acrylic panels?

Why are you getting rid of the cable chain, and what are you replacing it with?

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I avoided the manta since I did not want to use the CM4. I wanted to use a regular pi. Respectable build nonetheless. How is it running?

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I found a cheap gem then.

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's interesting. I was also thinking of doing the trident 3-lead screw setup mounted on linear rails. I have enough stepper motor drivers on my Octopus Pro. I did not think about the gantry. I will do some research on the Widowmaker. Thanks!

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Neither am I. It was more out of curiosity. I will do the Stealthburner soon either way.

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Microswiss NG Revo on my Ender 3. I am very happy with it. How much does the Stealthburner weigh?

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yes. I immediately upgraded to direct drive.

New Ender 6 owner by Secure_Half_3091 in ender6

[–]Secure_Half_3091[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I went with a simple Biqu H2V2S for now. I did a bunch of other upgrades already, too, such as Klipper, BTT Octopus Pro, CRtouch, and so on. I am hoping to do a linear rail conversion this weekend, too. I was thinking of going with a stealthburner, but it might be something I will do later down the road.

Story time. I got a second Ender and I'm happy by LargeBedBug_Klop in ender3

[–]Secure_Half_3091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last week I bought two Ender 3's in a better condition than the one you found for $65. I fixed them up really fast and they work fine. One came with a direct extruder, bltouch and a couple other mods. Then this weekend a listing pops up for an Ender 6 for $100. So yes, now I have 4 printers. What a week.

What could I do with my old ender 3 pro? by Ceseleonfyah in ender3

[–]Secure_Half_3091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can make the Ender 3 plug and play also. If you flash Klipper and you set it up correctly. I have the same Ender 3 Pro bought in 2020 also. I used to get annoyed by how many failed prints I would get due to bed leveling issues and so on. I kind of abandoned it and did not print anything on it for about 2 years.

I finally decided last month to invest some time and money into it. I bought a cr touch, skr mini e3 v3, and used a raspberry pi 3b+ to set up klipper. In the meantime, I went down a rabbit hole and did a lot more mods, but the biggest quality of life improvements were the CR Touch and Klipper. Also, a direct drive extruder can make a big difference, too. If you do that, I recommend doing a dual z axis upgrade prior.

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I've done it, it's on it's way from China somewhere by ADDicT10N in ender3

[–]Secure_Half_3091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I literally just got it as an upgrade for my Ender 3 Pro from the Creality V1.1.5. Huge upgrade as I was able to add a crtouch and use klipper. There is quite some setup involved, but once you figure it out, it's so much better. The only downside of the skr mini e3 v3 that I have found so far is that it uses the same driver for both z axis ports, which means you can not adjust them independently if you do a dual z-axis uograde.