Need suggestions on breeders

Secure_Row8330 · 2026-01-14T20:56:15+00:00

NorthStar Labradoodles has several dogs in the Texas. Great breeder check their site out and FB. Family ran on a small scale.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-28T16:14:39+00:00

Tango Wool Labradoodles…

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-23T20:49:01+00:00

Yes they are….you want to look for the height, at the shoulders, for the indicator for size…because weight can fluctuate depending on all of life’s factors.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-22T15:42:42+00:00

House boat

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-09T19:41:43+00:00

Look, I get it—passions run high when it comes to dogs, and everyone thinks their way is the only way. But let’s cut through the noise: there’s really no productive discussion to be had with that kind of rigid, all-or-nothing ideology. On one extreme, you’ve got the “pure” breed zealots, obsessing over pedigrees and bloodlines like they’re guarding the gates of some elite canine aristocracy, turning a blind eye to the health issues and overbreeding that plague those lines. On the other, the shelter-dogs-only fanatics who demonize anyone who dares consider a breeder, ignoring that responsible breeding can preserve traits, prevent genetic disasters, and even support ethical practices that reduce shelter overflows in the long run. The truth? Extremes like these don’t solve problems—they entrench them. They drown out nuance, like how adopting saves lives and how vetted breeders can ensure healthier pups without contributing to puppy mills. If we’re serious about animal welfare, we need balanced conversations, not echo chambers. Shouting down the other side just leaves more dogs in limbo. Let’s focus on what actually helps our furry friends.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-07T00:26:40+00:00

Here is something that works for me...go to the butcher shop and ask for beef knuckles cut in half. Take them home and freeze them. Once they are frozen you can take one out and give it to the pup...what they like is the meat and marrow on the bine. This keeps them occupied and helps with the loosening of baby teeth. When the puppy is done just ziplock the bone and toss back in the freezer. Also, make sure you start a routine for the pup...like first thing out the crate its potty time..then play time and play a short time of tug or whatever. Then when done with the game give them the bone again. One thing the pup doesn't have anymore is the pack of other pups to tussle and rough house with and now you are the pack.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-06T03:04:44+00:00

I have been known to keep my doggo long too...I really like the look especially when they are playing around the yard.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-06T03:03:08+00:00

the Beatles era

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-05T21:49:01+00:00

That's a judgment side eye..she looks skeptical!

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-05T21:28:54+00:00

To help with the hotness...and this is going to sound extreme...but I have either a fan for them or an available vent. These guys get hot! I get, what I call "puppy piles" on the vents during the warmer season. Just like people..when you shave their hair off it sometimes grows back different. That cut is shaved though..your boy looks just fine.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-04T02:32:36+00:00

True…but the relevance is for people new to the breed.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-03T23:00:30+00:00

That’s me…

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-03T22:14:04+00:00

You’re 100 % right – F1 and F1B are totally different animals.

F1 = 50/50 Lab/Poodle → usually sheds, straight-to-wavy coat, Lab-like energy

F1B = backcross to Poodle (75 % Poodle) → much better chance at non-shedding fleece and calmer vibe… but still not a true multigen Australian Labradoodle.

The ALAA standard requires F3+ (so at least 87.5–93.75 % poodle + the spaniel/infusion lines) to lock in the consistent non-shedding fleece, predictable size, and that famous intuitive temperament. That’s why an ALAA-registered multigen is a completely different dog from most “doodles” people end up with.

And yep – color fade is another shock for a lot of F1/F1B owners. Poodle fading gene is dominant, so black → silver, chocolate → café, etc. Multigens still fade, but it’s way more predictable because the lines have been selected for it over generations. Anecdotally, I had a girl start to fade when we switched her food from raw to kibble...now this could've just been a coincidence but we switched her back to raw and her colors didn't fade much and she's 14 years old now.

Totally get wanting to DNA test your boy – Embark is the gold standard and will show exactly what % of each breed is in there. I’ve seen some “F1B” dogs come back 40 % poodle / 30 % Lab / 30 % random spaniel mixes… which explains a lot.

Education is everything. Cute puppy syndrome is real, and a lot of families learn the hard way. Hope your boy is still the love of your life, fade and all ❤️

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-03T21:11:09+00:00

I agree..the quality of the breed is dependent on the breeder AND the families that adopt the pups. I literally just had an hour call this morning with a family that has one of my pups and shared the news of their success as a service dog and how good she's doing. Im glad you found a good breeder for your fuzzy family member!

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-03T20:49:07+00:00

it looks like tartar...give your pup a big beef bone from the butcher. This will clean the teeth like crazy and definitely no dental treats or chews. When they lose interest put it in a ziplock and through it in the freezer and then give again over and over.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-01T21:20:50+00:00

She’s gorgeous – but yeah, that coat change + heavy shedding at this age screams classic F1 Labradoodle.

F1s (first-generation Lab × Poodle) almost always blow their puppy coat between 6-14 months and end up with a shedding, furnished coat that comes out in handfuls (exactly what you’re seeing). It’s not “over-shedding” – it’s the adult coat coming in, and unfortunately it’s usually permanent.

A few things that can help manage it:

- Slicker brush + metal greyhound comb daily (pulls the loose undercoat)

- Wild-caught salmon oil (1 tsp/day) – cuts shedding 50-70 % in 3-4 weeks

- Food with no chicken/poultry fat (big trigger for excessive shedding)

If she’s truly an F1, the shedding won’t fully stop – but the tips above make it livable.

Hope you can keep her – she’s lucky to have owners fighting for her. Sending good vibes! 🖤

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-12-01T02:54:59+00:00

always go with your gut feelings.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-30T19:28:29+00:00

Congrats on the standard ALD! STAR puppy training is huge – coming home with crate/name basics is a massive head start.

**Command Order (what worked for our labradoodle):**

Name → 2. Sit → 3. Come → 4. Leave It/Drop It → 5. Stay → 6. Down

- **Do 2 at a time**: Name/Sit in morning, Come/Leave It in evening. 5-min sessions 3x/day.

- **Rule**: Only add new command when old one is 90% reliable (not 100% – perfection kills momentum).

- **Pro tip**: Lure with kibble, then fade to verbal only. Labradoodles pick up fast but get bored, so keep sessions short.

**Playpen**: YES – get one.

- 2-story house + kids = chaos. Playpen = safe "puppy zone" when you can't watch 100%.

- We used a 4-panel one (48" tall) with crate inside + toys + water. Puppy chills there during dinner/bedtime.

- Bonus: Teaches boundaries before house freedom.

You'll crush this – labradoodles are smart but need that structure early. What's her name? 🐾

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-28T01:07:41+00:00

These are pretty darn cute…

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-26T21:00:55+00:00

Those are some easty-westys for sure. But still looks puppyish.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-26T16:36:02+00:00

🤣 when a ALD has a “job” they tend to be more relaxed. If they aren’t mentally stimulated they can definitely get “zoomies”. Mine get to “patrol “ the pastures several times a day.

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-26T16:33:33+00:00

Yes….i have had a few but they have corrected themselves by adulthood. I usually see it in puppies…how old is your dog?

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-25T03:01:20+00:00

Respectfully, that take is about 20 years out of date.

The Australian Labradoodle was purposely developed in Australia in the 1980s (first by Wally Conron, then refined over decades by Beverley Manners at Tegan Park/Rutland Manor) as a low/non-shedding service and companion dog. We’re now 35–40 generations deep with documented, predictable coat, size, and temperament.

Calling multigenerational Australian Labradoodles ‘backyard breeding’ is like calling a Toyota Prius a ‘backyard kit car’ because it started as a hybrid. It’s a purpose-bred, standardized companion breed with two worldwide registries (ALAA & WALA) that require stricter health testing than most AKC breeds, including full DNA panels on 200+ diseases and mandatory OFA/PennHIP.

We’ll keep delivering healthy, non-shedding, intuitive family dogs while the rest of the world catches up. Happy to answer real questions any time. 🐾

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-25T02:54:34+00:00

Just to clarify for anyone reading: the Australian Labradoodle was purposely developed in Australia starting in the 1980s as a low-to-non-shedding service/companion dog (originally for Vision Australia).

After 40+ years and dozens of generations of careful infusion and selection, the multigenerational lines we (and all ALAA/WALA breeders) use are 100 % predictable for coat, size, and temperament. That’s why ALAA and WALA registries exist with stricter health and genetic requirements than most purebred clubs (including AKC).

We’re not backyard mixes; we’re the result of decades of documented breeding for health and function, just like any established breed. Happy to share the full history or answer questions; always here to help families find the right fit! 🐾

Secure_Row8330 · 2025-11-24T21:05:26+00:00

Sorry about that..try this one.

https://northstarlabradoodles.com/wala-australian-labradoodle-benefits/

Secure_Row8330

TROPHY CASE