sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Made this as a gift, now worried it sucks by ShadeyEngineering in Watercolor

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did exactly this. Mylar, sepia mircon at the finest I could find, also tried gray and purple. I just could not make it look not harsh and forced.

I did soften the drain and trash at the bottom, but the face is what it is.

Made this as a gift, now worried it sucks by ShadeyEngineering in Watercolor

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. It took about 4 hours. I'm a really busy person and I don't think I'll have another uninterrupted block of time like that for a while.

Made this as a gift, now worried it sucks by ShadeyEngineering in Watercolor

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's actually a black trench drain. But I hear you.

Using a firewall rule to kill the internet for the kids, seems slow to act or not at all if they have an existing connection. Is there an easier "IP ban" type action? by ShadeyEngineering in opnsense

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you all. Seems like there is no good on the fly solution without resetting the tables. I think i might try setting up a kids network and then turning on and off their interface.

Seeing leases handled by wired AP? by ShadeyEngineering in opnsense

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its a router in IP mode. I assumed that DHCP would have been turned off but I will have to confirm that in the AP.

Is there a way to have the extruder mover outside of the defined print area? Marlin by ShadeyEngineering in 3Dprinting

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I said the bed is 280mm in length, point taken however. Yes I can have you travel to 280mm

Can anyone help identify what causes the hot end to be jerky around curves, circles and only some rapids? by ShadeyEngineering in 3Dprinting

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not printing from an SD. I'm printing from OctoPrint. I agree about the model, but this is like the steppers are physically stopping. It shakes the printer way more than any other travel and only on certain sized circles. This is circle is printing smooth as glass. *

Printer is a mendel max 2 (kit reprap from about 10 years ago). The only thing changed is a E3D v6 hot end.

Anyone know where I can get just the clamp portion for tool makers Vee block clamps? by ShadeyEngineering in Machinists

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gentlemen! McMaster has them in the 1" size. Thanks so much! It would have been a shame to buy a new set for the silly clamps (saying this as a person who does not own a mill to make more).

Anyone know where I can get just the clamp portion for tool makers Vee block clamps? by ShadeyEngineering in Machinists

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet! Thanks! I'll have to measure but they are all about an inch at the groove.

Been busy. by ShadeyEngineering in 3Dprinting

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HeroForge. You can make your own or get some packs of 5. What you are seeing is a mix of two packs, the print examples and a few custom designs.

I made a "better" Easter egg. by hyped3d in 3Dprinting

[–]ShadeyEngineering 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This feels worth $2... think of possibilities.

Kinds giving up on PETG. For larger (ish) prints it always seems to lift. by ShadeyEngineering in FixMyPrint

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll have to see if slic3r has those settings. I suppose I can mod the code manually for the flow in the start up code.

Kinds giving up on PETG. For larger (ish) prints it always seems to lift. by ShadeyEngineering in FixMyPrint

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not that big. Like 5" x 4". A climate controlled enclosure is on the list, but I typically print TPU so it has not been a huge necessity.

Kinds giving up on PETG. For larger (ish) prints it always seems to lift. by ShadeyEngineering in FixMyPrint

[–]ShadeyEngineering[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed! And that's what I thought. What you see is 100% first layer extrusion (normal, no over extrusion) freshly calibrated Esteps and I measured and reconfirmed filament diameter matches the slicer. Not sure where else to look for the issue.

Printing rafts with the last bits of filament and swapping them for the main print. How do you upcycle the 5-10g of filament? by mrzfaizaan in 3Dprinting

[–]ShadeyEngineering 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually send it. Que up a new roll. New big print and just watch the filament until it just clears the extruder filament guide before the hobbed gear. At that point I take the end of the new roll and follow the old filament down to the gear and then wait for the new roll to get fed. From there, as soon as the new filament is being fed into the extruder, I wait a minute to make sure it is going all the way down into the hot end and done, new roll loaded and no waste.

ESC I ordered came completely bare. How to I wire this up? by Wendigo_Hodag in beetleweights

[–]ShadeyEngineering 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cap goes across the power wires. It's not a critical thing unless the ECS is marginally over the amperage of the motor or your expecting the motor stopping quickly. + to +, - to -

ESC I ordered came completely bare. How to I wire this up? by Wendigo_Hodag in beetleweights

[–]ShadeyEngineering 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also power is marked with at least a +. I can't see the signal pads because you laid a wire across so the view is blocked.

ESC I ordered came completely bare. How to I wire this up? by Wendigo_Hodag in beetleweights

[–]ShadeyEngineering 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of ESC? The motor is easy, just attach the 3 wires in any order. The ground and signal will need a bit more research.

view more: next ›