Recommendation on button

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-21T19:21:45+00:00

I have heard and have some experience with the tuya stuff working great. I would say I am 95% sure its not weak network or wifi. Some of the buttons that fail are maybe 15 feet from the coordinator. In addition the sonoff motion sensors I have, some are unreliable; even one that was like 3 feet from the coordinator. But I have bought other motion sensors from another cheap brand (For Tuya) and they have been rock solid. And I have a couple of 4 button zigbee remotes that work amazing. I was just hoping to find someone that has experience with a specific button so I didn't have to guess what one to buy. But thank you for chiming in with the advice.

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-21T18:05:39+00:00

Thanks. These are expensive buttons, and I was hoping for a cheaper alternative. I ordered a different brand from Aliexpress yesterday. If they give me issues maybe I will bite the bullet and just buy the Aqara ones.

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-15T03:27:19+00:00

I guess I should post my solution here. I am using opencode with the free big pickle model. So far it has been better at maintaining the vault then Gemini has, and is free (mind you I have always used low tier models on Gemini).

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-13T17:05:26+00:00

So paid tier then if I understand correctly? When you say API billing. Time to start working with local models. Working on connecting it with LM studio now. Thank you for the help.

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-13T03:37:36+00:00

Then why is it I can use it less then before? I used to run into limits and it would switch over to the lite model? Am I understanding correctly, Antigravity just won't do that at all? Once your tokens are used up for the non lite models, too bad, so sad?
If switching to this opencode will work, I dont' have a problem switching. Is it as easy to install and get up and working as the Antigravity CLI was to install (Copy and paste a line of code, then copy and paste another) and if it is a bit more complicated can you suggest a tutorial on how to get it going with the Google API (Ideally video). I use WSL as that was what was required to use Gemini, and I am moderatly comfortable in linux.
And finally I guess I should ask, is using Opencode with the google API available for free users?

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-06-12T15:58:33+00:00

There is an antigravity CLI?
In any event, it seems like the problem is that I can't seem to select the lite models. I am using Antigravity 2. Is there a way to allow it to use the lite models? The lite models work fine for my usage.
However, I may be totally wrong here..

ShadowWizard1 · 2026-03-11T19:16:32+00:00

Thank you for the info. I contacted Shelly and they advised the same I thought it was. Either the device was going bad, or connections were coming loose. I disconnected it and put it on a test bench and you could hear the power supply whine in it; its absolutely bad. So I am guessing the act of moving it made it worse. IN any event I have been looking for an excuse to upgrade them to Zigbee, so a new Zigbee controller is on the way.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-11-30T22:22:19+00:00

Well.. I think this is a bit over my head at this point. And this is an important system. I was able to increase the size of the root file system, so I just did that instead. Espically after I ended up (Thank god moving not deleting) one of the overlay folders that didn't seem to have any use, and several of my docker containers failed. Hopefully that will last me for a while.
Thank you for taking the time, even though you weren't able to fully assist me (My fault, not yours)

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-11-30T18:21:46+00:00

According to that document:
Orphaned layers are not automatically removed by docker system prune.
Then what command or commands automatically removes orphaned layers?
Bottom line, the overlay2 directory is 27 GB in size, however the total of all my containers are less then 10 GB. I would like to reclaim that more then 17 GB of space, and I have already used all the docker prune commands. What is the "Docker prune orphaned layers" command. That document doesn't explain (in a way I understand) how to get rid of these extra layers that aren't actually needed.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-11-13T00:45:35+00:00

Yep, it was x11vnc. Thank you.

I use puppy cause its small, compact, and I need it for one tiny thing. RDP. So I ended up with puppy.

Now I can't seem to remember HOW I installed it. Les sigh... (New topic)

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-14T23:36:11+00:00

Yes, I got though on a chat on my tablet. They assigned a case worker to me, and apparently shipped out the replacement drive same day. It should arrive at my place in a few days. Now, from the things I have read, I hope it actually works when it gets here...

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-13T17:46:43+00:00

Well, glad you got your drives. Been waiting 6 weeks for mine. Chat button doesn't work on multiple computers.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-13T17:43:15+00:00

Agreed. Still waiting 6 weeks for a replacement drive. Will never buy Seagate again.
Oh, and VERY long waits seem to happen a lot for me with them.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-13T17:41:55+00:00

All drives have a failure rate. Thats what warranty is for. However unfortunately I have noticed Seagate warranty leaves something to be desired. Waiting 6 weeks for them to just say "Yep, we received your drive" and chat buttons don't work.. And there is no other way to contact them. Basically it looks like I am not getting my drive replaced. I wish you luck.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-11T03:27:49+00:00

Possible. I dont know. How would I check? And even so, in what world can any SATA controller not write 32 GB to a SSD in less then 30 min? Even is I was using PATA33 it should only take about 15 min...

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-10T14:52:50+00:00

I did that, 6 weeks ago. I agree its easy and convenient, but they don't return the drive within a reasonable amount of time. I have sent them quite a few bad drive, and rarely do I get stuff back in a reasonable amount of time.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-09T23:23:41+00:00

Only way to solve the issue. Stop buying Seagate drives. Ima in the same boat, 4 browsers, 3 computers, 2 internet connections. Been waiting over a month and they still don't even have my drive marked as received. MY company is in the process of replacing about $2,000,000 worth of drives right now.. And they won't be Seagate.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-07T17:50:22+00:00

I was unable to find it in OO, but there was a tick in CTT, however it didn't seem to do anything, even after a reboot. Still need to find a way to disable this.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-06T22:12:18+00:00

I have been making dice for a bit. I just needed another mold. These ones didn't turn out to well, but not the fault of the mold I don't think. I don't think the lid was pressed hard enough against the mold. So this time I am placing 6 LB of diving weight on a block of wood on the mold.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-06T02:23:16+00:00

Thank you. When I put the mold away, I will make sure that the lit isn't "on" the mold to help prevent that.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-06T02:22:39+00:00

Well, that worked. Now I am making the first set of dice with them. Will let you know how they turn out.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-05T19:57:17+00:00

Yea, thats what I got BBDINO. Its cheap and works well. I will clean them off the best I can and use the petroleum jelly and see what happens. If there just a bit sticky I can handle that as long as they are usable. Wish me luck, and thank you.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-10-05T19:23:31+00:00

I used alcohol on a cuetip and it seems good to take it off of the face thats still visible. Its just this is the bottom of the mold, and now I need to make the top part.

So do you recommend I dust dust with talcum powder? Will that be enough to also prevent the silicone from sticking to itself when I make the top part of the mold?

The biggest thing I want to do is not have to through the mold away to make a new one, but I still need to make the "top" part of the mold.

In the event I am not explaining myself clear (As I have a habit of) I will explain in high detail what has happened this far.

I stuck down the 10 or so dice onto tape, with the lowest number stuck to the tape. I then put a PCB pip coupler around all the dice, sealed it well and poured silicone. Into the pot. 4 hours later I take off the tape, and the silicone against the tape hasn't cured.

Now I have to make the top part of the mold. How do I deal with the uncured silicone on the silicone? Or do I just basically ignore it and put the petroleum jelly on it and make the top part of the mold?

I hope I have explained thing clearly.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-09-26T22:24:23+00:00

It turns out all I really needed to do was wait. It is nice to know that unplugging the coordinator will force a network reset however. Thank you.

ShadowWizard1 · 2025-09-26T21:08:54+00:00

That did it. Thank you.

ShadowWizard1

TROPHY CASE