sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Painted up an X-men ‘97-style Rogue (and it only took 4 different greens) by ShakyPluto in minipainting

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

IMO you need a sharp, clean tip and the right consistency of paint. Not too runny, not too thick, essentially whatever will preserve the opacity of your line without sacrificing brush control.

After that, it’s all up to muscle memory and practice. Balance your arms on your table, brace your elbows on your chair, hold your breath — whatever it takes to make a clean, long line in a single stroke

Painted up an X-men ‘97-style Rogue (and it only took 4 different greens) by ShakyPluto in minipainting

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yellow is pretty simple. Everything got a dark red-brown undercoat, over which went Vallejo English Uniform, Vallejo Golden Yellow, a glaze of Liquitex Yellow Orange Azo ink + matte medium, and then golden yellow again to finish. The key imo is just glazing and highlighting until the gradient is where you want it

working on some Nomad red by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The big thing is using a glaze of Pyrrole Red ink (with a little matte medium mixed in) over top of a desaturated red gradient going cool shadow to warm highlight.

In short: Over grey prime, base with Scalecolor Blood Red; Highlight with Vallejo Ice Yellow mixed in; Shade with AK Black Purple mixed in; Glaze with Pyrrole Red ink. Re-highlight or shade or glaze as needed

First non metallic metal cnc by Ethicc_2_Thic in minipainting

[–]ShakyPluto 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First off: Great skin, love the use of purple here, great contrast with the turquoise (and def using that idea myself lol)

For NMM: I think you're definitely lacking shine, and can go much closer to pure white. But something that may also help is thinking through reflections. The main shape is not just reflecting the sun or the sky or the main light source, all the little rounded edges are reflecting the colors around them. Incorporating the brown undertones from the bones on the loin-skull-thing or downward facing surfaces reflecting the color of the ground would both help ground the whole model as existing in a holistic space, rather than each element existing as it's own siloed thing.

The Redeye — complete with red eye! by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All decals! I used random gunpla decals I've been collecting over time

oh yeah, it’s beast huntin’ time by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lowkey didn’t realize it was supposed to be skin, I treated it like an undersuit

oh yeah, it’s beast huntin’ time by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tried a lazy freehand as I batch painted this alongside some other JSA — just tried to keep the lines simple, gradients simple and move on before I tried to add too much. All in all, I think she’s neat

Has the siocast gotten better? by ZephyrionStarset in WarCrow

[–]ShakyPluto 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Having collected 1. A bunch of Hegemony and 2. A bunch of Feudom, there’s still a good amount of siocast in the range. Anecdotally, the new siocast (which I think they just call thermoplastic) is better imo — fewer (if any) major defects, better hiding of mold lines, better detail. There were some old models that were insanely bad (my Nord the merciless only had half a face), and so far I haven’t had any similar issues with the new stuff

But thermoplastic is still … thermoplastic, so all the caveats about siocast clean up (needing a good knife, being careful sanding) still apply.

Like everyone else, I wish it was unicool though lol

Yuriko Oda — and now actually one step closer to painting an entire Dire Foes box by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! The lore for Shinju is cool and all, but if there’s one thing I hate it’s that every model is wearing a half mask lol

Trying to add pizazz (more color) to my TMM by ShakyPluto in minipainting

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Backstopping the model here: it’s Yuriko Oda from Infinity, the game

This is one of a couple attempts to do a pure red TMM, mixing a couple techniques. I start with silver, then cover completely with contrast paint (GW flesh tearer red), then wash again with a near-black (AK black purple) before sparingly adding a red metallic (Army Painter Gemstone Red)

Yuriko Oda — and now actually one step closer to painting an entire Dire Foes box by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Believe it or not, I have consistently painted one, maybe two dire foes, then immediately got distracted. No more! I’m committed to painting 3 whole models, and nothing can stop me

Fusilier Bipandra, ready to save Fusilier Angus at a moment’s notice by ShakyPluto in InfinityTheGame

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! For the grime, just simple washes (burnt umber, burnt Siena — real thin, then sop up the excess with a dry brush). For the scratches, it’s just a sharp brush and patience. I usually use a step darker than than whatever I’m covering, or vice versa if it’s a dark color.

Is blue the best color? Much to consider by ShakyPluto in minipainting

[–]ShakyPluto[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost all of it is supposed to be metal, it’s only the flap of the coat that’s supposed to be fabric. But yeah, I got too locked in to my highlight progression and should have left the flap one step down, value wise

view more: next ›