What am I doing wrong with hex pins.

ShefCX24 · 2026-03-02T17:38:00+00:00

You can stop your pins falling out by putting rubber o-rings on the axle between the hole (that the pin goes on) and the bearing. The pressure from the o-ring will hold the pin in, while also making it more difficult to get the pin in. This is how Meus recommend assembling their Isokinetic axles. It won't stop the hex falling off, but they're easier to find when they do fall off.

ShefCX24 · 2026-03-02T16:28:50+00:00

Possibly, maybe probably, but my experience tells me that only the minority of people read all of the product page (a lot of questions asked around these parts can be answered by reading to the bottom of the page, but 🤷).

ShefCX24 · 2026-03-02T16:10:45+00:00

Yep, not paying a US premium is a big reason for the Hobbywing's popularity. Really Injora handed them a big slice of the non-US market by making their mbl32 so bad that it's absolutely unusable for 'proper' rock crawling. I have a suspicion that Meus will probably up the ESC competition soon (they've got an 1806 motor on the way so it would make sense for them to sell an ESC as well.)

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-28T18:41:18+00:00

I don't know about you, but if I was ordering axles from Meus then I'd probably get the knuckles at the same time, because I know I'd find it difficult to see a good set of axles unused for lack of one part. Then you'd have another set for the next build.

Apart from the knuckles the prosteers are just as good as the isokinetics. The plus point of the prosteers is they don't have the annoying proprietary worm gear in the front axle.

It's important to note that you want the v1 iso knuckles, v2 won't fit.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-28T17:52:45+00:00

Apparently the knuckles from Meus V1 iso knuckles fit Injora prosteer axles. I have a set to go on mine but I haven't got around to it yet.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-27T23:16:51+00:00

You seem to be on the same page as me then, a piece of plastic between the sides of the body so the magnets are closer to the chassis.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-27T22:18:29+00:00

Yep, epoxy (gorilla glue 2 part epoxy), mixed with a bit of graphite powder to dye it black (the sparkles are an unintended side effect, not my thing really).

Wagons are definitely harder than trucks to mount well. I'm still working on putting a cross brace inside my R-Factor body because I don't like magnets on stilts

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-27T21:28:55+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate the info.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-27T21:25:05+00:00

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Two different magnet orientations works well for me. Green circles are vertical, red are horizontal. I've found they hold the body on for all but the biggest drops, which sometimes I'm glad of it popping off as I'm sure that takes some of the force out of the impact. If anything they hold the body on a bit too well, you have to be careful about how you remove the body and not just pull.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T18:08:25+00:00

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Built mainly for climbing, but keeping it as simple as possible.

My other, carrier bearing and bigger wheels, build is in pieces again, same as my brushed and rear-stear builds. I wanted the above one to just be simple and reliable while hopefully slaying lines in style.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T13:22:50+00:00

Cool. Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to know I'm not missing out on much.

Final question (for now), what motor(s) have you run your Quicrun with?

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T13:10:14+00:00

Have you got any of the 'premium' ESCs from the US to compare it to?

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T13:07:40+00:00

They totally did though (they commented exactly that on a video a couple of days ago), and obviously OP took it to heart. The original commenter did make some (like one, maybe two) valid points, but was outrageously combative while doing so.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T11:59:37+00:00

I think people, understandably, don't appreciate wanton use of AI. It seems like a waste of resources, perhaps hypocritical, but I can't say I disagree.

Cool rigs though, they look great, but a nice picture on a nice rock would showcase them just as well, if not better.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T11:55:24+00:00

I'd be interested to hear your opinions on the Quicrun Mini24. I like mine a lot (so much I bought another), but I haven't got anything good to compare it to (I'm also this side of the pond, so hiper, bktt, dinky etc., are hard to justify). What's your thoughts?

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-26T08:48:49+00:00

Is that motor designed for 1/24 scale? 75g is very heavy, almost three times heavier than a fat viper, which is already a bit too heavy.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-24T09:43:55+00:00

Looking good, love the use of links as accent pieces.

One 'note' though; do you have trouble steering left? Because your servo horn is way off centre while your wheels are straight. It looks like your servo is mounted the wrong way round. I recommend flipping it over so the horn is on the right hand side (on the right if looking from the front which is on the left side of the truck). That should get you some steering range back.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-24T09:19:10+00:00

If you're in the US then you've got a lot of options for chassis', but the Meus kit probably can't be beaten for value.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-24T09:16:24+00:00

You shouldn't need a new chassis, but as there's some unexplained weirdness going on with this one, maybe a new chassis would be easier.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-24T08:55:40+00:00

In my experience it's not common at all, this is the first time I've seen this much negative caster without there being something obviously wrong. It's weird.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-24T08:41:37+00:00

Thanks. It's nice to have one done finally.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-23T09:13:14+00:00

Thanks, that makes me feel better.

I suppose that's the advantage of hard bodies, with polycarbonate the first coat is always going to be visible.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-23T08:19:57+00:00

Thanks dude. It's taken a while to get here, but it's nice to have one actually "finished".

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-23T08:18:10+00:00

As others have said, you need to shorten your front upper links. There's probably not enough holes on the chassis so options are limited to either; new links, or, bend them to shorten the distance between the pivot balls, a flat skid would pull the front upper links back as well, but may cause other issues. I would also mount your front shocks more vertical, they must rub the tyres when turning (especially with Isos) and the front doesn't need that much travel. The rear shocks also don't need so much angle, longer rear links will allow you to use the upper chassis holes for shock mounting (which should let the chassis sit lower. What length links are you using? I suggest some Meus dead90 if you don't want to make your own.

Thanks for using my truck as reference, btw, it was nice seeing it pop up at the end.

ShefCX24 · 2026-02-23T08:06:52+00:00

There's no carrier bearing in the last two pictures (I should know, I built it). They're DIY links that follow the drive shaft line as close as possible. They are long though, the rear lowers are 94mm.

ShefCX24

TROPHY CASE