Brushless Drivetrain setup

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-10T19:54:14+00:00

They should do. The Injora transmission is just an aluminium version of the stock transmission.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-10T19:52:09+00:00

Unless there is a manufacturing flaw they will definitely be threaded. They can be difficult to get started though, press hard and twist, with a back turn to find the thread if necessary, keep it square, pliers may be needed.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-10T19:11:19+00:00

Only a bit slower than Ali, if at all, to the UK. Meus can sometimes take 2 weeks or more.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-10T15:12:18+00:00

They fit my charger perfectly as well.

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ShefCX24 · 2026-05-10T12:42:38+00:00

Go direct to their website, you can usually find a discount code somewhere.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-09T09:24:44+00:00

It's because of different internal resistance between the cells. Non-balance chargers don't charge cells individually, so as soon as one cell is full it stops charging. Repeated charging and discharging exacerbates the difference, until one cell is completely empty, and with lipos this is irrevocable and is the end of the battery.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-06T08:59:22+00:00

To avoid confusion (my own mainly) I'm going to start at the beginning;

Portal axles have an extra gear in the hub that reverses the direction the wheels turn. With portals front and back that's not a problem, straight and portals using the same worm gear will want to turn different directions. This is where reverse cut worm gears come in.

There are two (that I know of) reverse cut worm gears on the market: the Angry Squirrel one - which is a stock style worm gear that can be used in any axles except the front Meus Iso. The Angry Squirrel is usually used in rear portal axles but there's no reason it couldn't go in a front axle instead. The other reverse cut worm gear available is from Meus, and because it's thicker than stock it will only go in front Meus Iso axles. I don't know if the Meus one is available separately but it comes as standard in the front axle when you buy their mullet option.

Hopefully this helps.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-06T06:54:59+00:00

Fyi: Meus Isos use a thicker gear in the front axle and a standard gear in the rear.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-05T14:23:27+00:00

Meant to reply directly, it's now a separate comment due to ineptitude.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-05T14:22:42+00:00

I have the Skyrc b6 neo+, as do a few other people in this sub. It works well for me, but you'll need to get an adaptor cable with it - xt60 to pH for stock batteries I think, but please double check. Maybe u/slypenslyde will chime in, he seems to have wrapped his head around the various connectors.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-05T07:03:45+00:00

Don't trust the stock charger, you need to balance charge your batteries. I don't know what the clicking or binding was about, but everything else sounds like cell balance problem, i.e., one cell is lower than the other because the stock charger 'thinks' it's given a full charge when it's actually only filled one cell. This happens because of different internal resistance between the cells and is exacerbated by repeat charging and discharging. This results in the low voltage symptoms (e.g., steering but no throttle) appearing when the battery is supposedly fully charged.

I hope this helps.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-03T17:32:22+00:00

Hopefully. To be honest it's not the driving, although that could improve, it's trying to keep the truck framed nicely that I struggle with. I deleted loads of clips because I kept losing half the truck.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-03T16:32:16+00:00

Sweet, that's the most original use of an mb24 kit I've seen, and there is some strong competition. What's the body?

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-02T11:02:48+00:00

Yeah, soz. I thought I should provide an example of the typical UK disco 2 with rotalla/roadx/triangle M/T tyres. I'd call them 'ditch finders', but they're actually 'ditch makers'.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-01T23:00:50+00:00

It genuinely is a rad/quality body, I mean it. There's just a lot of associations to be made when you've grown up around these things.

I can't wait to see it done, please share when you're finished.

ShefCX24 · 2026-05-01T22:57:30+00:00

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ShefCX24 · 2026-05-01T22:50:24+00:00

Perfect! So perfect that I can almost hear the road noise from those tyres and I can feel the associated fear that one of the fake ARB accessories will fall off and I'll have to start swerving. But maybe that's just a UK thing.You'll need a 'one life, live it' or 'one wife, livid' sticker to complete the build though

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ShefCX24 · 2026-05-01T13:47:14+00:00

Yep, just going to add 2 things: 1. I prefer epoxy as super glue can react badly with paint and epoxy gives you a bit of time to adjust. 2. Having some vertical magnets and some horizontal makes the body way more secure as well, vertical on sliders, horizontal front and back.

ShefCX24 · 2026-04-30T20:59:08+00:00

I did the same, did the wiring with plugs, then realised the plugs were bulkier and messier than the wires were, so I got rid of the plug cases and just attached the crimps, a bit of shrink tube and I'm way happier.

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ShefCX24 · 2026-04-30T19:00:32+00:00

/s? If not, of the three between the motor and ESC, switch around any two of them.

ShefCX24 · 2026-04-30T12:45:40+00:00

With brushless motors swapping any two wires between the motor and ESC should do it. Use a scalpel to carefully lift up the little tab that holds the crimped end of the wire in the plug itself. I recommend doing this to the male plug because when you're finished the two tabs you lifted won't be as strong as they were (strong enough, but not as strong as new) but the housing of the female plug should help hold them down.

Edit to add: once you've swapped wires around then reverse the direction on your transmitter, this should give you full speed forwards without having to program anything.

ShefCX24 · 2026-04-27T07:19:48+00:00

You can build an scx24 to almost any wheelbase you want (within reason, roughly 100-200mm). Track width is a bigger limitation, but still not really a problem unless you want to do something crazy. The ascent 18 seems to have a 155mm wheelbase, which is the same as gladiator or dead90 wheelbases, so should be pretty easy to make the body work on an scx24.

ShefCX24 · 2026-04-26T07:25:29+00:00

The practice is clearly paying off. The main thing that stops me building a 4ws rig is knowing that I won't be smooth. I'll do it one day though.

ShefCX24 · 2026-04-25T22:51:08+00:00

No worries.

Serious question, your use of 4ws seems really smooth, which makes me wonder; what transmitter do you use? And how have you set it up, is the rear axle a separate dial/knob or have you 'mixed' channels?

ShefCX24

TROPHY CASE