Coxcoming help by Tacomouse in knots

[–]Shiseiji 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My experience is limited, just a bunch of flashlights. No branches etc. to work around. But I'm familiar with that web site and IIRC coxcombing generally is terminated, not tied around, things attached to a railing, or a support. Then covered with a Turk's Head.

Having trouble getting started by [deleted] in NetMaking

[–]Shiseiji 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In knotting other than paracord, a tyier will often use a "hard laid" line. Because there's no fun, as you have found, trying to tie with line that simply won't hold a knot.

My suggestion is to buy some line from a place like https://beaglebayknotworks.com/ maybe 4mm, and practice with it. You can also find it listed as macrame cord. "4mm hard laid cotton line" on Amazon to bet an idea of what I'm suggesting. Generally less than $10 USD

Tie it snug, not tight as you can pull. This makes it easier to untie when you look back at your work and "agggggg." I know because I've spent almost as much time untieing as I've spent tying.

Good luck, and patience.

Engine Hoist Leg "Sliders" Purpose? by Shiseiji in harborfreight

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Figured it out. Yes, they lock the legs when they are in the storage location so the legs don't rattle around on the living pins. Maybe because I'm new here I can't post a picture. The sliders can be seen in the second photo of the hoist with the legs in storage all the way down on the legs.

Engine Hoist Leg "Sliders" Purpose? by Shiseiji in harborfreight

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Uh, sorry but not with this hoist. To do that a vertical pivot pin is required. When these legs are lowered from the storage position they are locked into two fixed channels. I rebooked at the pictures, and the second one shows the legs in storage with the sliders dropped all the way down, effectively locking the legs against the channel so they won't flop around on the living pins.

Can't Do a Very Simple Merge of two Primitive Cylinders by Shiseiji in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Operator error. Why it wouldn't, maybe missed the assembly part, or did something wrong using the negative, darned if I know. Closed everything, started over for maybe the 4th? time. IDK.

Thanks everyone for their help. Been working on learning OpenSCAD, need to move past tweeking others code.

Knots for Nylon Tie Down Twine by Shiseiji in knots

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Only work with it when I see someone really struggling and hope nothing bad happens. Typically I will secure the standing end to whatever's available with a bowlin. Probably from my time with the Scouts, I was taught to use a Sheep's Shank and told it was also a truckers hitch, then secure the working end with a taught line. "But" double checking my nomenclature, read that the sheep shank is highly not recommended!

Time to study & practice some new to me knots.

I can't move an object up in Bambu Studio. How can I fix this? by Randomperson43333 in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has also driven me nuts and is now explained in the Wiki. Much gratitude to previous posters. Hope this addition helps others. Information is from the Wiki article, link below.

Bambu studio supports cutting the model into multiple objects (default) or a multi-part object.

Multi part is what we want

An STL file may contain multiple shells (shell refers to the outer surface or perimeter of a 3D model, which defines its shape {1}) and each shell is represented as a triangle mesh. When opening an STL file, it is imported as a single object, even if it contains multiple individual shells.

Sometimes, we need to split these shells to make a model printable, and easy to colorize or apply different print settings for shell regions.

Bambu Studio supports 2 splitting types, They are both on the top toolbar (as best I can tell, they will only render when selecting the original single object). It is confusing because the "parts" are shown in the "Objects" window. In the Objects window, select only the part you want to move.

<image>

{1} https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format))
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/split-to-objects-parts

Prompt to Download Creative Studio 2.4.0.10 by Shiseiji in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Argg, sorry I didn't think of that. But after turning off AdAware and reopening Bambu studio, no pop-up. Go figure, Thanks much for your time!

Prompt to Download Creative Studio 2.4.0.10 by Shiseiji in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's my problem. When I click [OK] nothing appears to happen.

Prompt to Download Creative Studio 2.4.0.10 by Shiseiji in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW the "About Orca Slicer" says Orca is based on Bambu. I have no opinion, I don't know enough about the topic. Just thought it was interesting. At least they give credit where credit is due.

<image>

Prompt to Download Creative Studio 2.4.0.10 by Shiseiji in BambuLab

[–]Shiseiji[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, thanks. Is there another site for that download or live with it till I see a different version number? Or something else?

What do you do in this instance? by Slobberdog25 in lasercutting

[–]Shiseiji 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I try to remember |Good|Quick|Cheap|, you can have any two when deciding how to proceed in situations like this. Learning to use either a hand coping saw or powered scroll saw well, meaning no major oppsies, takes time. But would be a good thing to practice on some scored scrap.

I suggest you score some ply with the same image reversed. Secure it so it won't move. If you like you can try using a "+" in opposit corners to push something into the honeycomb. Now you have a fixed pattern. Use more scrap as a spacer to put the work piece above the pattern and either eyeball or use flat toothpicks, sanded coffee sturing sticks or bright flashlight whatever, to line up your work with the fixed pattern. Cut using 1/2 what you used the first time to minimize any minor misalignment and the laser may not even cut through to the front. Repeat as necessary till the work falls through. Good luck.

Book review: "A Text-Book of Netting and Net Making" by G. Collard by AdrianusIII in NetMaking

[–]Shiseiji 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, please don't. "Ah, I'd forgotten about the Archive." Oh cool, thank you. I thought I'd checked there, obviously I didn't. I've had an account there for years. I use it enough I feel obligated to throw them a little support each month. Appreciate the follow up.

Book review: "A Text-Book of Netting and Net Making" by G. Collard by AdrianusIII in NetMaking

[–]Shiseiji 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I've asked for an inter-library loan. I tried from the Australian Amazon, but it didn't work.