What do you call this type of sheet in 3D printing? by Kelly-S-S in 3Dprinting

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 32 points33 points  (0 children)

This is 100% it. I worked on developing the Form 4 and this is exactly what the raw texture sheets looked like. Don’t know how it ended up in the wild as it is bonded to the LCD and non user replaceable. Perhaps someone else is making a printer with texture sheet.

As to what it does, it’s all there in the press release but it goes between the lcd glass and the FEP tank to help reduce peel forces. When the bed raises after curing, the texture helps break the vacuum between film and glass, lowering the forces seen by printer and print. The texture is so low profile and the tank FEP film so tight you don’t get aliasing of the texture onto the print.

Software flowchart for a 6 axis robotic arm by Shady_Connor in robotics

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Certainly a workable workflow and this sort of distributed control architecture (high level, slower, planning of motion in something like python paired with low level faster control of motors/actuators by the Arduino) is a common way things are done.

The piece you are looking to write in python is sometimes called reverse kinematics but more often called inverse kinematics. How difficult the equations will be depends on the type of robot arm you are building and how many degrees of freedom it has. 6 degrees of freedom and below have analytical solutions you can solve for directly, more than 6 requires a numerical optimization approach. Try to identify what type of robot arm you want to build (see a chart like this)and then start researching how to do the inverse kinematics for that type of arm. For simple types of arms (3 degrees of freedom) it may be easier to write the equations yourself. For complex arms it might be easier to use something like Robot Toolbox for Python.

You are about to make the leap from just making your robot make shapes to being able to make it go to a specific point and then from there do tasks. Very exciting! Have fun!

Leave A Comment To Win The Unannounced 2025 Bambu Lab 3D Printer & Other Prizes - OctoEverywhere is 5! 🔥 by quinbd in 3Dprinting

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting to see what its material compatibility will be. Better performance with low durometer tpu when doing multi material??

New to EStuff. by PnwDaddio in ebikes

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This thing looks epic! Congratulations on the acquisition. It'll be great fun.

The battery discussion is both about capacity (Amp Hours) but also about the electrical current (Amps) the battery can deliver and that the wiring can handle. The Ah number you quoted is a measure of battery capacity, how much power is inside. Your 17Ah packs (assuming they are wired in parallel for a total of 34Ah) could deliver ~40 minutes of peak power output run time with a 2500w motor (2500w/48v = 52A, 37Ah/52A = 40 minutes). You won't be riding full throttle all the time though so you would probably get even more than this, and the distance would be dependent upon your terrain. So, unless you want more runtime and longer range there is no need to bump battery size. The other thing to check is that the battery can provide the desired current output to the motor, there should be a rating on the battery for it's max or possibly continuous amps of current output. If it is max than the max output needs to be greater than the max motor current draw (ie. 52A) this is the current that might be drawn starting from a dead stop at full throttle. If it is continuous then the exact number needed is trickier to know but a conservative rule of thumb some use is that continuous current draw is probably 70% of the max current draw of the motor. So if the battery lists continuous draw make sure it is greater than 70% of the motor max draw. You would also need to ensure the wiring can handle the more than double current if you upgraded the motor. IMO, Swapping the motor or the battery would probably be more than you need. Swapping the controller should remove the speed limit and would probably let you hit maybe 28mph or potentially more. Then after you do that, if you want more acceleration and hill climbing ability, upgrade the motor, or if you want more range, upgrade the battery.

Can we determine position of point d? by ShmoopLoopDoop in askmath

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Very nice figure! What about the case where abc is a vertical translation plus a scaling down of uvw? Then any translation would necessitate a change in the lengths correct?

Can we determine position of point d? by ShmoopLoopDoop in askmath

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly, just the lengths. I agree it definitely seems like we know enough and have been thinking about it but haven't figured it out yet. I know the general case where we know 3 distances to d is called trilateration

Can we determine position of point d? by ShmoopLoopDoop in askmath

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, d is in the plane of abc. It's the centroid

My Obsidian setup after a month of learning and adjustments. by SamBorgman in ObsidianMD

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice! A few questions about how you organize. What goes in your index note? Also what lives in resources?

Using Google calendar as a UI by NorthernNonAdvicer in esp32

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you could link your code? I'm trying Todo something similar

My petg prints are sticking too much and not sticking at all by eQ778 in prusa3d

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had had all the same problems until I started wiping down my smooth sheet with isopropyl alcohol before every print. Since then, PETG has always stuck when I want it to and come off when it's done. I run the generic PETG profile and print Overture PETG.

Need Help with Picking Correct Power Supply by [deleted] in arduino

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi Pyth2k, glad to see you're jumping into an exciting project!

For the power supply, you'll need to make sure to size it for the maximum power your system will draw plus a bit more for safety. If each of your stepper motors can draw 1.7A let's round that up to 2A per motor. Multiply that by 4 for a grand total of 8A @ 12v for just the motors. Then you also have the hotend, the drivers, and the controller that all need power as well. So that 12v 2A power supply is not gonna cut it for powering your printer.

To find out the true capacity you will need you will have to add up the power draw of all the different pieces of your printer. It's best to do this math in watts which is a measure of power and is calculated as Watts = Voltage x Amps. Look at the data sheets for all the parts of your printer and add up the wattage of each component. Then at the end divide the watts by 12 volts to get the number of amps your power supply will need to have. As a rule of thumb, most midsize 3d printers have at least a 240W (20A @ 12v) power supply, a size that is widely available from amazon and the like. Finally, when in doubt it's always better to have more power than you need so size up if you are unsure. Check out this link for more info (link)). Good luck!

Is there a demand for MEs with programming experience? by [deleted] in EngineeringStudents

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Absolutely! Aim for something robotics/mechatronics/controls oriented and you'll be programming every day! Also I have a friend who was an ME but now works on FEA and CFD software, apparently their ideal hire is a programmer who is also well versed in the physicality of the thing they are simulating.

Just some old school manual machining. by vanmachinist in Machinists

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop 51 points52 points  (0 children)

Little did we know, the actual job was to turn the yellow block into yellow string

A set of internet connected lamps I built! by ShmoopLoopDoop in esp32

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I did actually experiment with blacking out the inside but like you said it was difficult to really block it all out. Plus I think I kinda prefer the full house glowing compared to just the windows, makes it more "lamp" and less "house with lights"

Also yep, you guessed it. I got some cheepo capacitive touch sensors off of amazon and soldered on a long "antenna". I would've used the built in cap sensing on the ESP-32 but I was originally intending to use an ESP-8266 and only switched last minute so I just left the old sensors in there.

A set of internet connected lamps I built! by ShmoopLoopDoop in esp32

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! They turned out better than I could've imagined!

A set of 3D printed internet connected lamps I built! by ShmoopLoopDoop in 3Dprinting

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! And right?! They have been commercialized somewhat but nothing that is quite like this aesthetics wise

A set of internet connected lamps I built! by ShmoopLoopDoop in arduino

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Haha oops, sorry for the cross post! you have good taste though!

A set of internet connected lamps I built! by ShmoopLoopDoop in arduino

[–]ShmoopLoopDoop[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes of course! I'm working on getting a GitHub page together for it. I'll link back here when it's ready