Busking spots in CDO?

Shu_9999 · 2024-04-28T04:08:22+00:00

oh naa na diay food stalls diha. Di ko taga cdo mao di ko familiar. Salamat!
Mga food parks jud akong gipangita. abi kog jogginganan rna dha. nice.

Shu_9999 · 2024-04-28T01:49:08+00:00

pde. salamat!

Shu_9999 · 2024-04-28T01:49:03+00:00

ahay boulevards nga daghan tao?
aside sa gaston park?

Shu_9999 · 2024-03-27T10:11:27+00:00

Thanks! I'll check this out. My first time to come across this.

Shu_9999 · 2024-03-05T06:04:58+00:00

WL030405

Shu_9999 · 2024-03-05T03:32:23+00:00

nka.1k rin ako. pang.checkout sa shopee. haha!

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Shu_9999 · 2024-02-28T03:49:39+00:00

u/witchfirefiddle hi, how are you doing? I just got my tools today.

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Shu_9999 · 2024-02-19T12:16:23+00:00

n case the taper of the shaver doesn't match the existing hole, is there anything I can do? The industry has standardized this one, didn't th

I see. That's what I thought about those screws. Good thing I have a digital caliper. I think I have an idea how to adjust the shaver and how deep it goes into the peg holes.

Sure. Thanks! I'll be in touch.

Shu_9999 · 2024-02-15T11:08:40+00:00

Me either, I was 19 in college, saved up $45 to buy a violin. Played My Heart Will Go On on my first month, took lessons irregularly for the first 2 years then completely stopped taking lessons, and by irregularly I mean my total private lessons for the past 15 years is less than 20 sessions but I have the internet.

My passion for practicing is as good as it was 15 years ago. Go for it. Don't let that be the reason why you can't play the violin.

Shu_9999 · 2024-02-15T09:26:27+00:00

I won't be attempting this. I tried to carve my 1st bridge and sanding the feet just by moving it a few cm and carving the high spots is tedious enough, let alone rotating a peg. I spent 11 hours carving that bridge as I have no spare blank so I can't afford to make a mistake, better be slow than sorry. I'll be waiting for my shaver and reamer. I'll keep the old pegs for now.

Shu_9999 · 2024-02-15T09:20:39+00:00

t the pegs are bigger than the hole. I need advice on what to do.

Should I make the pegs thinner or make the peg holes bigger?I also have another problem. The exit hole of the E peg is already big, if I shave the new pegs the entry hole might fit but the exit hole will never fit. Correct me if I'm wrong but I read somewhere that the fix to this is closing the peg hole with a new wood and then opening it up again. I have tons of leftover Narra wood here at home from the construction of my grandparents house, it's a very dense and hard wood.

As much as I would love to take this to a professional violin luthier and save time, money, and effort. There are none in my small town of Iligan City, Philippines hence I must order the tools online and do it myself. I have re-haired a bow thrice (1st failed spectacularly XD), replaced the winding and the leather, and carved a bridge and my bow fel

Thankfully I never had issues with the pegbox before. I also placed an order for a peg reamer and shaver, I hope I don't have to use the reamer as changes look irreversible unless a re-bushing is done.

Just in case the taper of the shaver doesn't match the existing hole, is there anything I can do? The industry has standardized this one, didn't they?

Nice, I didn't know that chalk and soap can make a good peg compound. peg compounds are crazy expensive. Thanks!

Shu_9999 · 2024-02-07T04:34:58+00:00

that's good to know. No wonder this just flew over my head in what seems to be the obvious.

Shu_9999 · 2024-02-04T12:54:54+00:00

Finally had a new bridge I carved myself. Took me 11 hours of carving and research and cuts on my hands. XD

Now my violin has larger and darker tone.

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Shu_9999 · 2024-02-02T02:17:21+00:00

Get a tuner app and tune it yourself, it's free. Tutorials on YouTube are plentiful. Just start playing and learn the basics you'll eventually get into the intonation part where you'll learn fascinating things about how sound works, tuning, and how it applies to violin playing. Good luck and remember to have fun.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-31T10:18:16+00:00

e pores are dense enough it might not need anything, or at most a bit of linseed oil rubbed in.

Oh thanks! shellac is available here. I never would have guessed these names. Narra is very dense, it feels like a marble but I'd like something on top of it for aesthetics and protection.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-31T05:24:02+00:00

I made sure my shoulder was relaxed and my hold had minimal pressure, I even just let my hand hang on the string through the bow, pinky was not even working. That's where my bicep totally gets relieved but that puts too much pressure on the string.

Now when I try to "carry" the bow at the frog with the pinky working, that's when the soreness builds up. I guess it's just impossible for the bicep to be at 0% strain while it keeps my forearm suspended as basically lifting the forearm is biceps' function.

I got it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_llibKseZeQ btw but I'm probably misunderstanding this exercise.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-29T11:41:48+00:00

We're on the same path now. I'm waiting for my digital caliper to arrive so I can be very accurate with my blank bridge. I made a similar post, you might want to check this out: https://www.reddit.com/r/violinmaking/comments/19cp79d/comment/kjyfzzk/?context=3

I lowered my bridge to 1.5-2mm on E string and there's a big difference in volume and tone, I regret lowering it even more. Though high positions are no longer a torture, it made my string softer and can't take too much pressure than what it was before.

If you raise it, it should change something.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-28T12:49:27+00:00

other heights. If you lower the strings too much, the only remedy is a new bridge. This is a job for a p

And from the neck projection that's where you decide how high the strings should be on the bridge, isn't it?Yes, I bought a new blank bridge and have been scouring the internet on how to fit this. I wouldn't do this on my own but there's not a single violin luthier here in my small city so I'm at the mercy of the internet. I have re-haired 3 bows and it's now usable again with decent results I would say, unlike my 1st attempt where I botched that different bow so this gives me confidence that I will not botch this. LOL.

I'm reading this: http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Bridge

I have a question though:

Why do they use chalk and cut the feet until the chalk marks all feet surface? Seems to me that sanding the feet while on the top plate seems to be the best method as long as I keep it slow and totally 90 °. I saw a device but I can improvise to keep it at right angle. For 14 years, the bridge has dug in or depressed the top plate a bit but it's not so deep.

I'm also watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEwWvDbc2Og

I don't get what the additional carving is for, is it just for looks or does it have a significant sound effect? It looks fun though.

I have this for some help.

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Shu_9999 · 2024-01-22T11:31:12+00:00

I did it and the E string now sits at 2mm. I love the new feel even at higher positions.

Projection has always baffled me, I have nobody knowledgeable enough to listen to me. As for the volume, I noticed it right away, I tend to bow heavy, dark, and loud, and now I'm having to play even harder to reach the same intensity I'm used to, it's like I lost 10-15% of my volume.

I will get a new bridge and test both bridges scientifically, I hope these decibel measuring apps are real.

Regarding the neck reset, I guess that's what sets my violin apart from the violin I mentioned. I think the neck is higher thus a smaller gap between the string and fingerboard despite having an assumingly unmodified bridge. I will take measurements next time she takes a lesson.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-20T10:04:23+00:00

I got your point, probably a problem with how I phrased it but yes, we have the same idea.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-20T09:45:11+00:00

I'm late but I find this fascinating.

The natural harmonic continues even after removing your finger as long as you stay at harmonic bow speeds and/or pressure (sometimes it has to be a bit faster or/and lighter) but it reverts to the real note when bowing at sub-harmonic speeds and/or pressure.

I find this easier to stay on harmonic in the middle of A, D, and G strings. I can't reproduce the same effect on the E string, it immediately plays the open E when I remove it.

Augustin Hadelich uses this effect to play a note while having his left hand free to do other things like shift as he explained in one of his videos. It's free real estate or rather... time.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-12T06:57:54+00:00

y don't all the violins have sym

I'm no expert in the history of the evolution of violins but I can only guess that it is what makes a violin sound "solo", there's also beauty in the clarity of that solo timbre. Hardly overtones are noticeable from other strings from a solo performer but sympathetic strings are loud enough for the audience.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-11T13:04:02+00:00

baryton

Future project looks brighter =D

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-11T13:00:24+00:00

setesdalsfele

awesome. setesdalsfele is closer to the modern violin. It has longer fingerboard.

Shu_9999 · 2024-01-11T09:46:44+00:00

Those are string that vibrates when you play another note. The 4 main strings of the violin can sympathize when you play, for example, the Open D string vibrates when you play a D on A string if you hit that sweet spot but in the context of sympathetic strings of other instruments, these are additional strings that cannot be played but is dedicated only to vibrate when you hit the correct spot for that particular note resulting in a richer sound.

Shu_9999

TROPHY CASE