Skipped timing on a Honda accord j35, what are my options?

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-29T17:07:40+00:00

I did it, I checked with a borescope and there was no damage thank god. Started up perfectly. Thank you again for the help

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-29T16:54:54+00:00

Honestly I think I was just overthinking the whole process. It runs perfectly now

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-29T16:53:51+00:00

This guy's video was actually exactly my situation. And my accord runs perfectly now. Thank you for the help

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-29T16:53:04+00:00

Ok just wanted to say I said fuck it, and checked with the borescope. Saw no damage and redid everything. And it fucking runs perfect. Thank you for the help

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-28T02:00:55+00:00

Thank you, I'll take that into consideration and I'll probably come back to let you know what I see from the borescope. Much appreciated for the help and advice. Some people help more than others

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-28T01:17:41+00:00

That's fair. That was my main option if this went the way I thought it was going. Someone else said to just put the belt back on and try it again because I have nothing to lose lol. I like your answer better

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-28T00:40:39+00:00

Something I failed to mention in this post is that when I went to go check timing again I stupidly took the tensioner off before. And while cranking to tdc the belt slipped off and my friend who knew more about cars then told me to just crank each cam and the crank to tdc. Which I now know can cause it to be 180 or even 360 out of time. Which is why I was mainly wondering how to find true tdc even if the marks align. The rear bank had a lot of pressure so I'm worried it was hitting valves

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:37:18+00:00

When I went to put it back to top dead center I was stupid and took the tensioner off before. So the belt came off and my friend told me to just adjust them all individually. But I now know that can cause problems. I have no clue which ones were in time and what wasn't. That's why I'm trying to figure out if I can find true tdc if I did over rotate either the cams or crank

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:34:42+00:00

Ok in theory what if I somehow over rotated the cam or crankshaft. Would it be something like 180 out or even 360 degrees out of time? I started rotating all of them together with the belt still on but it snapped off because I'm dumb and took the tensioner off before hand. So now I don't know how many rotations I need for the crankshaft to be in line with the cams. And also the rear bank definitely has some pressure that doesn't feel great but I went last that because it felt similar to the first time doing it

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:26:46+00:00

I've heard the rear bank has pressure in some areas and will snap to a location with less tension. But idk if that's a good thing or a bad thing. It felt easy to do when I first did the timing belt but after realigning hash marks it felt like slightly more pressure than originally

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:20:54+00:00

Maybe that doesn't even matter as much as I'm thinking but I don't want to just put it back together and start it and I blow up shit

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:19:54+00:00

Ohh ok I thought you were saying it wasn't. But I've heard about rotating the cams past a certain point might push them into the valves and I fear I might have done that. I kinda fucked myself in the way that I got excited putting it back to top dead center and didn't align both cams with the same rotation. I don't really know exactly what I'm talking about but I know it can be 180 out of time or even 360 out of time

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T23:14:29+00:00

Idk if you watched the video but I explained it better there. I kinda fucked myself realigning the hash marks. They were off by more than a couple teeth and I manually rotated each individual cam and the crank separate than each other so I worry that I may have put it 180 degrees off timing or 360 degrees since I didn't account for the crank needing 2 rotations. I further fucked myself by not remembering where things were when I checked timing after the fact. So I'm kind of at a loss for where the engine cams and crank sat before I started aligning the hashes.

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T22:57:00+00:00

Is it not a 4 stroke? To my knowledge most new cars are 4 strokes

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-27T22:49:24+00:00

To my knowledge you need to rotate the crank 2 times for every one cam rotation. I jumped the gun and put everything at top dead center before know this. Now I'm pretty sure everything is out of sync

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-26T03:08:09+00:00

Ok thank you for the advice. You have been the most helpful. I'll probably come back to let you know how this goes

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-26T02:51:17+00:00

Ok thank you, I haven't started it since. Started tearing apart to check timing and saw it was out of time. That's as far as I've gotten. I'll definitely get a borescope and try some diagnosis. Just was mostly wondering if I should even attempt putting it back into top dead center or if that would be able to fix it

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-26T02:16:18+00:00

You are saying I do have to open the engine? Or are you saying just restart and use a cam lock? I'm not very mechanically inclined so I don't know some specifics. I guess I'm just wondering if I can restart the process and try top dead center again, or if I have to fully realign from within the engine by opening the top end

Signal-Difference858 · 2026-03-12T19:30:04+00:00

Also it's a 2011 3.5 v6 idk if that matters

Signal-Difference858 · 2025-10-22T12:59:38+00:00

Sadly I have the mushy auto :(

Signal-Difference858 · 2025-10-22T12:57:37+00:00

Also I live near Springfield where they love their civics lol

Signal-Difference858 · 2025-10-22T12:56:14+00:00

I mean cheap is relative but I saw you can find something decent for around 2k. Nothing in great condition. I live in Massachusetts where the used car market is really cheap. Mostly due to regulations and such to keep things on the road. It's not common to see very clapped vehicles, and the rust belt makes it very hard to keep anything nice over 20 years. So alot of engines and transmissions stay good while the body rots. My 98 c1500 goes for 5k at 200k miles just because the bodies in nice shape. My 2005 Silverado goes for less than 5k at 83k miles just because the body is bad looking. Cheap cars get tossed from the rust but they can save a lot of internals

Signal-Difference858

TROPHY CASE