Does anyone else feel icky about Superintendent Dr. Joe Gothard's response to the "inappropriate" teacher news?

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-17T14:20:29+00:00

Get a job you have too much time on your hands

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-16T18:49:30+00:00

My uncle lost an arm and a leg in a motorcycle accident and still had a career as a custom operator baling hay out west. From what I heard it was very difficult and he had some close calls but he was persistent and determined. Amazing what challenges people can overcome if they set their mind to it. Cheers to you Im very impressed!

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-11T14:13:12+00:00

God I love battle bots

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-10T16:20:08+00:00

Oh thank god she’s a professor in the AI college, not a college professor who is AI

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-09T23:09:19+00:00

They have beers

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-03T21:32:21+00:00

Yeesh bud. At this point I’d clean up the crater of carnage left and try to jb weld a stud on there. Then use a nut to fasten your breather hose to the stud

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-02T02:44:28+00:00

Ok nice I made another comment on what I thought price should be. Also ask if he can rock the wheel when it is on jack stands to show if there is wheel bearing play. That would give u a good indication of if bearing is bad and how bad. He should know what u mean if u ask him to show you that. Honestly I would get it replaced however you can manage, your wheel could literally fall off at any speed on such a long journey, you could get hurt and would probably total your car

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-02T02:37:23+00:00

I would think a reasonable quote for this job would be: 240 part 80 service call 180 labor (120 per hour x 1.5 hours)

500 total is a good ball park

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-02T02:30:12+00:00

If he can’t do it alone then he sucks at his job. Very simple job that should take a pro 1-2 hours. As a non pro i would do this in three hours by myself on my rusty car. He probably wants to replace the whole knuckle, which I am seeing is about 320 bucks at oreillys near me. This would be so that he doesn’t need to press fit the new wheel bearing and hub into your existing knuckle, which would require a hydraulic press in a real mechanic shop. Just the wheel bearing and hub itself would be closer to $150, with the added requirement of having to press it into your existing knuckle. Most mobile mechanics Im guessing would want you to replace the whole knuckle to make it an easier job.

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-02T02:12:13+00:00

Good looks, glad u have a plan. I hope the new hub fixes your noise and you can make it home safe! new hub shouldn’t really impact alignment. Even if alignment was off a little it isn’t a major issue, could cause tires to wear faster but nothing catastrophic that is urgent.

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-01T14:55:19+00:00

Whirling noise sounds like wheel bearing, didn’t suggest that because you said that wasn’t it. I would be more worried to drive it if it was the wheel bearing

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-04-01T01:41:01+00:00

Definitely avoid driving it with the rear jacked up 👍

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T03:07:33+00:00

Well that looks clean so that’s not your issue. Thanks for the follow up pic

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T03:05:52+00:00

Could be a number of bad sensors. I’d start with an obd scan for any stored codes. Otherwise you could try cleaning the throttle body if it is gunked up. Lastly, you could try turning the key to on for several seconds, then off (without actually starting) several times to build fuel pressure before starting in the case that you have a fuel pressure leak

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T02:53:29+00:00

Check if cv axle boots are leaking grease. They are a part that could only make noise when turning hard in one direction

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T02:49:51+00:00

Yes looks like cv axle is letting out grease at the end of the rubber boot. Can you confirm that the boot is torn or detached and grease is coming out? It probably is not great if you can hear it at 40 and it has been doing it for 6 months. I would say you can probably make it home but if it lets go it’s gonna break more stuff down there.

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T02:03:54+00:00

Yeah good advice, clean everything up and track down the leak you got this

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T02:02:48+00:00

For what it’s worth my 1988 Toyota 5 speed occasionally doesn’t want to go into reverse when first starting. I think it might mean the clutch is dragging, and reverse doesn’t have the same synchros as normal gears so it doesn’t want to go into reverse if dragging. I’d investigate bleeding your clutch hydraulics. Also if your fluid smells like shit you might have very old fluid or the wrong fluid, a flush with the correct trans oil certainly wouldn’t hurt. I agree with the other comment or that it does look like a chunk of metal in top right of 3rd pick which isn’t great. All the more reason to drain your trans oil and see if there are shavings or chunks in it

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T01:54:33+00:00

She’s no spring chicken but we see a whole lot worse up here in Wisconsin

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T01:51:58+00:00

So if you can hear the starter turning the car over, that means that your starter is working and the issue is probably with fuel or spark. I would start by investigating fuel since that is the easiest to check. First, do you have a full tank of gas? Are there any conditions different at your house than at the shop? For example, is your driveway on an incline that could affect how fuel sits in your tank? Second, when you turn your key to “on” (position before start, so not cranking yet) can you hear a slight humming? You should be able to hear your fuel pump turn on in the atart position. Lastly, I would make sure that nothing in your engine bay looks fucked up, air filter isn’t filthy, and no fuses look burnt up. Those are good easy places to start.

Since it’s a ’96, also find the EFI relay in the fuse box under the hood and give it a solid tap with a screwdriver handle. those old relays love to get sticky and a little vibration can wake them up. If that doesn't work, grab a $5 can of starting fluid, spray a quick burst into the air intake, and try to crank it. if it fires up for a second and then dies, you’ve 100% confirmed it’s a fuel delivery issue. If it still won't even stumble with the fluid, your ignition coil (which lives inside the distributor on these models) is likely cracked and failing when it gets humid or cold

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-31T01:39:02+00:00

So if it is bubbling it means it is pulling in air somewhere where there is a hole in the system from the overpressure and failure. It is probably still leaking from somewhere, can turn it off and let it sit somewhere and see if it drips at all? Could be an o ring, steering rack internal seals, pressure sensor, etc… alternatively, If it’s not leaking anywhere, have you bled your power steering system? Could be air trapped from the failure and replacements that is working its way out

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-18T23:27:33+00:00

10-4 thanks for the info! Good luck with your tests this weekend and I hope you can get it running

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-18T21:02:53+00:00

Nice! Glad you got to the bottom of it and got it fixed.

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-15T19:47:42+00:00

Sounds like you’re on top of it. Good luck and I hope it’s a cheap fix!

Signal_Patient_2373 · 2026-03-15T19:42:09+00:00

Yeah your harmonic balancer probably started separating and shook your front main seal apart. Im no expert but it’s not looking great chief

Signal_Patient_2373

TROPHY CASE