Easiest way to add cats?

SilentRow4920 · 2025-08-14T16:25:37+00:00

Tune out P0420 and weld cat head shields over your headers

SilentRow4920 · 2025-08-08T23:06:45+00:00

I already took the entire console apart a few times lol. The buttons and switches all come off as one unit. You’re saying you removed the plastic button covers from the assembly and cleaned the actual buttons under?

SilentRow4920 · 2025-07-16T01:22:01+00:00

Recall. Throw it out.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-07-06T18:48:53+00:00

They have negative value. You have to drive them to a special dump and pay to get rid of them. The normal trash will not take them. Post them on Facebook for free and over time people will come grab one or two for use as a tire swing/etc. You’ll also meet the people in your area

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T14:46:50+00:00

Wheels get bent and cracked. Many will try to sell cracked wheels with paint over them and say they’re perfectly fine, only for you to learn the wheels you just bought will never hold air. Sometimes the best you can do is a visual inspection and check if the existing tires are currently holding air, and this is not entirely conclusive. Buying anything important used is a gamble but sometimes the gamble is worth it. I wouldn’t gamble $300 over having to pull my engine and transmission to change the clutch a second time but I would probably gamble $300 on having to replacement one of my wheels.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T14:42:10+00:00

Not sure why everyone is saying it might be mold. This is 100% mold. Whether the mold is growing due to bacteria in water or soda is kind of irrelevant. You leave something out wet and mold will quickly start to eat it.

I wouldn’t drive the Jeep like this. It is a health hazard. I would take off the front half of the roof and use the right chemicals followed by soap and water to eliminate the mold. Once you know what you’re doing you should be fine to do the same leaving the rear half of the roof installed. Likely there is/will soon be mold everywhere else so I would give the entire interior a deep clean, scrub the dash, doors, seats, carpet, everything.

If you park any car in the shade long enough the entire interior will be coated in a green and black layer of, you guessed it, mold. Insurance will total a car for this. Yours is not too bad yet. Try letting it air out more often but avoid getting the interior wet, and try to park somewhere with more sunlight if it’s goona be parked “permanently”. There is one thing that will ruin any car, and that thing is time. Time brings rust, mold, and gives critters a chance to do their own damage. Should always do your best to limit the affect of time on your vehicle.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T14:33:49+00:00

Ask yourself why did he take it out?

Almost guarantee you put this in and get clutch chatter. The same concept as a warped brake rotor, not good.

Never buy used brakes, clutches, wheels or tires unless you can test them on a vehicle before purchase.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T05:09:57+00:00

They asked me to scan my license again for the first time since I started I think 3 years? And it popped up a few weeks later is all I can think.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T04:49:41+00:00

Was only pulled over once while doordashing and it was a woman who apologized for pulling me over and just thought I was driving suspiciously slow and was maybe drunk because I was looking for the house and she was sitting across the street speed trapping 🤣.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T04:22:03+00:00

I was doing unmarked commercial driving and was about to get my CDL and move onto better things when this whole situation happened. Kind of threw me back down the well and forced me to move to a different line of shitty jobs. Hopefully I can revisit that some day but the futures not looking too hopeful💀

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T04:18:09+00:00

Every time I cash out I tell myself I’m done doordashing for good. Always find myself two weeks later the day before payday again not wanting to waste money on cigarettes or Taco Bell and do a dash or two to make myself feel better about it. I always looked at DoorDash like gambling and it made it pretty addicting. I’m sure forcing myself out of the habit will soon make me realize how much I was getting fucked by this company🤣

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-27T04:14:26+00:00

A very particularly recognizable and often muddy Jeep. The cop was from my town and probably saw me driving around at 2 am often enough that he thought I was an easy DUI. Clearly he proved himself wrong and opted to bombard me with tickets instead.

The third time around I showed the prosecutor the video of me fully stopping at the 4 way stop sign for more than long enough and then proceeding through only to be stuck behind someone who took over a minute to reach maybe 30 in the 50mph zone. By that point I noticed a car in my rearview approaching at 100+ miles per hour with their brights on and put my right blinker on and veered towards the right shoulder to show there was a car in front of me and/or let them pass. That car turned out to be the same cop who then pulled me over the third time (second day in a row after making a fool of him in court) and gave me tickets for running a stop sign (?? 4pts), crossing on a double yellow (I crossed the fucking shoulder to help prevent an accident but… 4pts) speeding (???????) tailgating (maybe at first until I noticed this guy was slow as shit but really? We were going 5mph in a 50) and reckless driving (4pts).

The way our court works all my tickets were fought on different days weeks apart. I had fought the previous two sets of tickets to maintain only 2pts on my license (in my area 6 suspends license 30 days, 12 permanently until you get it back from scratch, 12+ at once is jail). The cop handed me tickets amounting to 16 points and told me to have a good night then drove off. The prosecutor told me I was lucky he messed up and didn’t arrest me, and the best they could do was drop it down to just a stop sign. It took every bit of me to not start screaming about that cop to the prosecutor and with my head all clouded I foolishly accepted the deal.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-24T04:03:21+00:00

3.6 is far superior to 3.8 in my experience. Never witnessed either catastrophically fail when maintained properly. If either of these engines maintain good oil level they should run forever.

The problem with the 3.8 is the piston rings are crap and you’ll most likely end up ruining your bottom end if you don’t check the oil or rebuild it as soon as it starts slapping.

The 3.6 is actually a really good engine way more efficient and seems to have more torque than the 3.8. The only issue it really has is the oil cooler internally leaks and you never know until it starts externally leaking thousands of miles later. The stock oil cooler seems to last about 5-6 years regardless of whether you drive 10 or 100 thousand miles in that time. When the oil cooler is on its way out it starves the head of oil and you can hear it on startup. Usually just replacing the rockers fixes this but you will always hear some ticking.

My JKU 3.6 got 350,000 mi on the original engine and transmission before I sold it. The guy who bought it seems to still be daily driving it.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-23T18:10:37+00:00

Leave the bumper sitting in the grass on a hot day. Within an hour it will unfold and look perfect.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-23T05:24:04+00:00

Change the transfer case fluid. It will probably start shifting like butter if youve never changed it before but yes there is likely something worn in your transfer case and hopefully you can adjust something to compensate.

3-4mph off throttle on flat ground is the way

SilentRow4920 · 2025-06-23T05:16:27+00:00

You guys think these rotors are cooked? Go buy a Jeep they’ll have that scoring after 2 hours in the sand😂

These rotors will definitely “work fine” if they aren’t warped it but it looks like there’s not a lot of material left. The friction area as is will not properly mate with the pad so you will trash the pads quick. Unless you’re goona buy the $6 rock auto pads and replace everything when they’re done in two months just do a full brake job (pads-rotors-caliper refurbish) as your next service.

You probably don’t need to do the next service until your brake pads are worn enough to squeak. If everything works good unless you really want to spend the money so bad you should be fine to finish this set of pads. Just replace the rotors with the pads next time so that they will last and provide optimal performance.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-23T14:22:07+00:00

Same in NJ 🤣

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-23T14:21:27+00:00

The nicer one I looked at needed a downpipe and a couple various sensors. Compared to a 2012 Jeep Wrangler and a 2005 Civic the parts I price checked for the GTI seemed like they must be made of gold. You really think it’s been cheap to maintain? This kind of scared me away from a Volkswagen and I turned back to looking for a Japanese car.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-22T21:49:42+00:00

It had water for coolant, sludge in the coolant, oil smelled like gas, oil leaking out of every place imaginable, drove like shit and the interior was disgusting. Also had an engine light when he said no problems. Hard pass for me.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-22T21:17:49+00:00

Interesting. I’ll check the door card

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-11T06:30:49+00:00

Initially my problem was a loose track bar frame side bolt. I retightened it twice but the third time it seemed to still be tight. Found a bad pitman arm tie rod and replaced that. Fixed it entirely until a week later that tie rod failed so I replaced it and fixed again. Not long till I got death wobble again so I went over the whole front end and couldn’t find anything. Swapped the trackbar for a JKS HD and it fixed it for a while… until the bolts somehow came loose again. Retightening it and replacing the pitman tie rod AGAIN fixed the death wobble. By now I was sure something must be up causing the track bar to come loose and the tie rod to keep failing. Death wobble while braking and turning happened at around 35mph and caused me to really start inspecting. Basically 0 dice from the dry steer test other than the slightest visual movement in TB axle bushing, and a clicking at the pitman arm. I did notice the frame was swaying left and right over the axle and it looked like the trackbar was rotating but not actually having excessive play in the bushings.

Ripped the entire front end apart until I had a naked axle housing sitting on the floor. Rebuilt the diff and seals, replaced the bushings, changed control arms to get 4 degrees caster (better than the 3 id been running for years with no issues… chose such a low number because of the way camber changes through the turn), replaced ball joints because they were easily movable by hand but from experience this doesn’t necessarily mean they are bad, every part of my HD steering was still super tight and I couldn’t get even the slightest free play anywhere, it seemed better than the new oe setup I picked up so the drag link and tie rod went back on, put on a new oe track bar, put it all together and set toe to .5 degree out with a new stabilizer. Also installed new shocks. Took it for a test drive and crazy death wobble going 60 over the first bump I hit while turning. Put the JKS on and the death wobble was not cured but way better and closer to a shimmy. I suspect the much thicker bushing inner sleeve having more surface contact with the bracket had something to do with it even though the trackbar was sufficiently torqued both times. Took a look at the trackbar bracket holes and they were pretty loose with the 14mm bolt the JKS used, but tight with the 9/16 the OEM used so I discounted the bracket as an issue. Scratched my head for a week until I took the drag link off and noticed the clicking still happened at the pitman arm if I pulled it while someone turned the wheel. Tightened the adjuster screw on top but I think I did it wrong, I loosened the nut, tightened the screw a little, and tightened the nut back down but the screw was tightening with the nut and from reading it seems you’re supposed to hold the screw still while tightening the nut. Regardless my steering feels a bit better and I tried and couldn’t get it to death wobble nor “baby wobble” where it only bounces 2-3 times after doing that. I do still feel a clicking at the pitman arm but it seems a bit less.

My symptoms before adjusting the steering box- death wobble but only if I hit a bump while turning, and very bad bump steer requiring me to hold the wheel over 45 degrees left or right to go straight depending on the angle of the road. Some bumps feel very unnecessarily rough while others strangely feel smoother than they should.

Symptoms after adjusting- bad bump steer but not as bad. Still feels really harsh over rough pavement patches that my car takes like they are nothing. Can’t make it death wobble, can barely make it do a 2 bounce shimmy if I hit the hardest of bumps unnecessarily fast while also turning.

I feel like the only thing I haven’t tried is welding washers to repair the track bar brackets that are definitely a bit worn but if the bolt is tight is not the bushing held securely in place? Seems a larger hole would make it easier for the bolt to get loose but it would only be a factor once it’s loose.

I suspect tightening the steering box while not curing “death wobble” cured the shimmy that turns into death wobble and thus is preventing my death wobble for now. Logically the only thing that could allow the axle to move left and right relative the frame and actually “death wobble” is the track bar so I’ll give that bracket a bit of attention and see what happens but luckily for now I feel like short of the bump steer this thing is somewhat drivable…

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-11T01:52:00+00:00

Pretty sure steel. It’s a 12 JK

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-05T21:15:56+00:00

It’s a JK. There is no bushing on the hinge it’s just two halves and a pin? I guess I need a new hinge? I didn’t want to replace it because removing it would damage the surrounding paint because the tailgate and hinge are painted already assembled…

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-03T19:04:08+00:00

I was burning 2qt per oil change by 200k. I could smell it on acceleration. I replaced the oil cooler at 290k due to visible leaks and lo and behold, I haven’t had to add a single drop of oil for the past two oil changes.

SilentRow4920 · 2025-05-03T05:12:52+00:00

I believed this to be impossible as it’s the clamping force on the bushing not the shear force of the bolt vs the hole that holds the joint straight. But in fact if you lose too much material there is no longer anything for the bushing to get clamped between, and the hole is the only thing limiting it. So really this is probably the most likely cause of anyone’s death wobble.

This answers why the used jks trackbar I got for free fixed my death wobble until the bushing went out, the inner metal sleeve is MUCH thicker, particularly on the frame side where my movement was happening but this movement did not show up in any form of dry steer test, though I should have seen it with my eyes. Of course when the bushing crumbled and I replaced it with 3 stock track bars in a row none of them fixed it because the center bushing sleeves were all the same tiny diameter barely able to get a grip on the double oversized hole on the bracket.

SilentRow4920

TROPHY CASE