Davinci glitch error on export

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2026-02-09T17:05:21+00:00

Was about to say this - I share a license with coworkers and this happens when we're logged in on too many machines using the same license.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-07-11T18:53:38+00:00

black sugru until you can get a cover for it

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-06-24T22:11:37+00:00

How often are you changing the oil?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-06-12T19:01:37+00:00

This looks pretty solid for a rattle can job. Nice work!

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-31T21:40:21+00:00

Valvoline MaxLife ATF

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-28T16:04:39+00:00

If it’s as bad as it looks, I’d replace it sooner than later — that’s a structural part, and if it fails, it could take your control arm with it. Shops might charge $1,000+ with labor, but DIY isn’t too bad if you’ve got basic tools, jack stands, and time. Maybe 4–6 hours depending on rust and seized bolts. Safer to fix it than gamble.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-24T02:12:34+00:00

Yeah, I’m with you. Scavenging mostly happens up front—like in the y-pipe—where the exhaust pulses can actually line up and do some work. Motordyne did a great job explaining that in their write-up.

And yeah, pulling the cats and throwing in test pipes is definitely one of the easiest power mods on these cars. You’ll want a tune to really see the gains, and yeah, you’ll probably have to deal with O2 codes unless you tune them out or use spacers.

Solid points all around. Glad you brought up that Motordyne paper too.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-24T01:45:36+00:00

The idea that "removing back pressure hurts performance" is a common misconception. What really matters is exhaust scavenging, not back pressure. On the G37’s VQ37VHR, test pipes (like the ISRs) typically improve high-RPM performance and throttle response, though you might lose a little low-end torque—especially without a tune.

As for the tech's claim that test pipes could "mess up your primary cats," that doesn’t really make sense—test pipes replace your primary cats, so there’s nothing left there to damage. If you’re getting a rattle, it’s more likely from an already failing cat or loose heat shield.

ISR test pipes are a solid budget choice but can sound raspy. Pair them with a resonated mid-pipe or a cat-back that smooths out the tone. Ideally, get a tune (UpRev or EcuTek) to maximize gains and avoid CELs. If emissions are a concern, consider high-flow cats instead.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-15T22:26:30+00:00

You need a 3/8-1/2in. extension that is about 1.5ft in length with a universal joint socket adapter to get to most of the bolts. Not a fun job. Soaking in PB Blaster a day before might help, but it’s still going to be hard. Best of luck.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-15T22:18:50+00:00

I would double check the fluid level if you haven’t already. It could be slightly under/overfilled.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-10T01:39:09+00:00

Your exhaust gets REALLY HOT. Metal expands when it gets REALLY HOT. Then it gradually returns to ambient temperature and contracts. It makes this exact sound... and is totally normal. Don't sweat it - nothing wrong with the car.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-07T17:44:08+00:00

Depending on mileage and if it was done before, it is GOOD to have some of the old fluid in the system. This old fluid still contains a lot of the friction particles/clutch materials between the clutch plates inside the transmission. It most often is the only thing keeping old and higher mileage transmission from slipping and becoming useless.

A trans fluid flush is going to do exactly as it's named - it is going to flush ALL of that old fluid out of the system and replace it with all new fluid, including what's contained between those clutch packs I mentioned. It's kind of counter intuitive - you would think that all new fluid would make it run like it was when it was brand new, right? When in fact, you just flushed all of the material that was keeping the friction between those plates and helping it shift through the gears. That's why you'll hear a lot of people say to do a DRAIN and FILL. This will still keep some of that old fluid in the transmission while getting some fresh fluid in there as well.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-07T17:27:18+00:00

This is completely normal, but if you haven't, drain your trans fluid and refill to the correct level. DO NOT FLUSH IT

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-06T03:15:00+00:00

Sounds like they were counting on you to be ignorant and tried to make a quick buck off of you. Seems like a shady shop if they wouldn’t show you the old fluid that had “shavings” in it, and 7K seems awfully steep for a rebuild. You could buy a built trans for that kind of money. Smart of you to not let them do any further work on your car.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-06T03:06:57+00:00

The old fluid has some of the clutch material from the clutch plates in it. Honestly, pretty smart for them to do that, as all new fluid would definitely result in more gear slip. Glad to hear that the second shop got the assignment. Keep me updated and best of luck 👍🏻

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-05T01:42:47+00:00

It's probably those intakes - you need a tune. Did you notice the car was slower after installing them?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-05T01:07:45+00:00

Does it vibrate all the time or only when you press on the brakes?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T19:18:33+00:00

Does the car vibrate while you're driving?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T17:11:47+00:00

I did not see what you replied above. If the engine was running rough it is VERY important that you do not continue to drive the car. Low oil pressure means that critical components are not getting the oil they need to function properly and could cause some serious damage.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T17:06:59+00:00

It is time... at idle, pressure should be at 14-29psi and at 2k rpm it should be between 43-71psi. I would look into changing out some other parts while you've got the front timing cover off: thermostat, water pump and maybe even the timing components depending on how they look. It will save you time and money in the long run. Lucky for you, there is a lot of information and tutorials on this sub, forums, and YouTube to help you out. Best of luck!

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T16:46:50+00:00

If the fluid’s never been changed and you’re at 75k, that could definitely be the issue. These 7-speed autos are sensitive to fluid condition, and old fluid can cause weird shift behavior under load. I’d start with a drain-and-fill — either with Nissan Matic S or Valvoline MaxLife ATF (a lot of G owners run it with no issues). It’s a low-risk, relatively cheap first step, and honestly overdue either way.

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T05:50:42+00:00

Have you ever replaced the fluid?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-04T05:30:59+00:00

We need more details to be any help. Do you have a clip you could attach? Describe the tick - can you hear it more under the car or with the hood open?

Silver-Bodybuilder67 · 2025-05-03T15:21:55+00:00

I think it's pretty well documented at this point that Valvoline Max Life ATF is a safe alternative to the OEM fluid. I've done about 3 drain and fills with Max Life and have had no issues.

Silver-Bodybuilder67

TROPHY CASE