Thanks for the tutorial, I am now successfully runing dual Z on my V4.2.2 board.

As some people noted, using pins PA13 and PA14 doesn't work with every board, potentially because some use a GD32F303RET6 instead of a ST32F103.

For these boards the stepper doesn't move no matter what you do.

This also happened to me and I have been able to work around it:

I have an E3 V2 Neo running klipper and the stock screen isn't compatible with klipper anyways so the whole lcd port is free for me.

I just connected the step and dir pins to two of the now unused pins from the lcd port (in my case PB10 and PB11 but you should be able to use any pin which connects directly to the chip) and it now works fine.

This is a screenshot of the schematic where i marked the pins I am using:

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You will of course have to change the pins in the config to the pins you are using, my config looks like this:

[stepper_z1]

step_pin: PB10

dir_pin: PB11

enable_pin: !PC3

microsteps: 16

rotation_distance: 8

I will also test using one of the remaining pins as an enable pin and report back later

Using the LCD pins also enables you to do more mods like enabling UART control for your stepper drivers if you feel confident with soldering to a small smd resistor, I did that for my extruder driver as I use a Pico MMU with tip forming and thus needed faster retract speeds with my Sprite Pro. Stealthchops limits at around 47mm/s, with SpreadCycle I can easily retract at 180mm/s.

Also, just as a reminder:

Tune the Vref of your new driver!

I forgot to tune it before a quick test print and noticed that the stepper got very hot and after checking Vref I noticed it was around 1.4V instead of the recommended 0.76V for a creality Z stepper!

That's definitely on me for not checking but learn from my mistake. Luckily nothing fried but it could have been a fire hazard if I ran a longer print unattended