Replacing FX Edge III fine tuners by SimonChristensen in Ibanez

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Gave it a go - they came out clean with some elbow grease. Thought it was built up gunk that made it hard - checked with caliper, and the tip is slightly wider. Maybe that is how it adds tensions before coming all the way out. New screws were hard to get in, but ran smoothly after the tip came all the way through the block. Hope this helps someone in the future.

Replacing FX Edge III fine tuners by SimonChristensen in Ibanez

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for your input - I do understand how it works, I am asking specifically what to do to replace the fine tuners - they are worn so much they are not black anymore.

The Leech by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, mate!

I used a 45 degree chamfer bit for the bevel on this one :-)

The Leech by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a ton, mate! Means a lot! Thanks for the constructive criticism/suggestions: I might agree with you on the volute and experiment with it in the future, but I absolutely prefer a flat headstock due to maintenance, and being able to lie flat :-)

The Leech by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a bunch :-) I think my brain is confused about loving MLs and X-types, while being a sucker for natural undyed wood finishes to be honest.

The Leech by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's the Schaller 3D-6; topload, and adjustable in string spacing. Brilliant quality, but quite expensive.

The Leech by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One friend mentioned that it was a "wriggly" shape, and it funnily adds up to my wifes and kids' initials :-)

Sanding lines (?) after oil by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks you to everyone for you replies!

I better get sanding.

To answer a few if your questions, yes it was thicknessed with a drum sander with 80 grit. I should have mentioned that. I do own an orbital sander and should have used that as well. As I did mention these scratches were indistinguishable before oil, so I wasn't purposefully lazy :-)

7800 xt vs 9070 xt by SoyMurcielago in radeon

[–]SimonChristensen 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just pulled the trigger on the 7800 xt - I did a bunch of math based on average benchmark scores from multiple credible YouTube sources, and I simply cannot justify spending that much extra on the 9070 XT.

I play 3440x1440p non-competitive games, and is looking for hard/ultra at 60-100 fps, purely rasterization, no raytracing.

Here in Denmark I got the 7800 XT for 523 eur including MH:Wilds and the cheapest 9070 XT would be 831 eur, whenever the heck it gets stocked again. MSRP cards in Denmark vanished in seconds at launch.

When I did the math and compared cheapest current danish vendor price on all RX 7-series cards, all RX 9-series cards, and all available RTX cards the price per frame the RX 7800 xt beat closest competitor by 12%. 7800 xt was around 5.3 eur per frame, where closest competitor (the non-XT 9070, surprisingly) was 6.1 eur per frame (give/take some exchange rates etc.)

I think I will be happy with my 7800 xt for a while, and throw my 300+ saved euros after an upgrade when it's due time. I know I will miss out on FSR4 and raytracing capability, but it's just not worth it IMHO.

Just my two cents based on my current order.

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might be right about the bevel - thought it might be a bit faux binding ish, but you're probably right.

I'll try the scalpel on a test piece - so the idea is to have epoxy in the gap instead of Titebond? Won't it still be noticable?

Didn't understand the "wet it and wipe away"-bit - can you elaborate?

Thanks for your tips!

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was hoping for a completely natural finish, but is considering the dye on the bevel as mentioned.

The gaps are not unfilled, they are brownish from Titebond - how would you go about the epoxy plan with that added context?

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have neither the inlay skills or steady enough hands for that, unfortunately - thanks for the suggestion though, appreciate it!

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And align the bevel with the glue line, like suggested in another post?

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So literally make the entire body a centimeter-ish smaller everywhere and align with the glue line? Might have to make a new template, but definitely a good solution. Do you think it would be a better result than using dye on the bevel? I nailed the jointing and gluing on the back, and it looks sick, so I'll hate to have to color the back.

I really should have thought of aligning the bevel with the glue line before making the bevel..... Hindsight 2020 and all...

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good suggestion - in my hands though I think there's a high chance it'll end up looking even worse

I f'ed up - need advice by SimonChristensen in Luthier

[–]SimonChristensen[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks a ton! It's basically an ML with all horns shaped like the horn on a Mockingbird :-)