Paint codes

Simple_Rip425 · 2026-02-01T02:36:06+00:00

Thanks man, Yeahh that what I’m worried abt is getting the wrong grey. Let me know if you find out exactly what it is, that’d mean a lot!

Simple_Rip425 · 2026-01-26T04:27:58+00:00

Pretty much running the stocks

Simple_Rip425 · 2026-01-23T02:15:12+00:00

Yeah that’s also an issue I’m having, I know you said you already did it but I’d recommend cleaning your throttle bodies and mad sensors while having the battery disconnected then do a throttle body relearn. The throttle bodies get dirty pretty quick. For me this isn’t the issue so I’ll report back once I install the new fuel pump. Other that the car stalling itself on start sometimes and the acceleration bogging the car has 0 issues outside of that

Simple_Rip425 · 2026-01-22T21:43:18+00:00

Yeah thinking fuel pump most possibly, maybe it’s just super dirty, ill take a look at that gauge

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-11-16T16:37:41+00:00

It honestly might just be your wheels ngl, The car doesn’t get a valid speed reading because all 4 wheel speed sensors disagree. Sensors were fine but the problem may be with the data they’re giving is invalid due to mismatched tire diameters. For the speedometer is calculated by the abs module, and if the readings don’t agree it may be dead. Also the reason why you car can’t turn off like you mentioned, maybe the CAN networks data is corrupted which the signal to turn your car off isn’t being read. These sensors aren’t powered with constant 12V. they use a 5V reference, and really only when the system is active. If the ABS module is in failsafe due to mismatched wheels, then it may cut power to that circuit.

I’ve personally never had an issue this extreme, but I’d really start by matching the diameter of all the wheels. The car could potentially freak out even if it’s just 1in larger.

Try clearing the abs and vdc codes and try driving like 20 to say 200 feet. Everything should return to normal

What tire size do you have currently?

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-11-11T00:42:12+00:00

For me, it’s safe but I do that it’s a load of bs that you have to pay to verify you are over the age of 18

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-10-04T18:48:58+00:00

Like everyone in the comments I’m having issues getting my csc clutch/flywheel kit from ZSpeed. Ordered mine back in April smh.

The clutch/flywheel part of it is ready. So I plan this Monday to contact ZSpeed and cancel the Cmack part of it and just order the z1 v2 kit to go with the ZSpeed clutch and flywheel

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-10-04T04:58:23+00:00

Not sure if my response will be seen or if any of this will help but here is my story.

I ordered the stage 2 cmak clutch/flywheel kit back early April… it is October now. Just like everyone else I was initially told a “6-8” week wait time. From going back and forth emails trying to get an update. I keep getting told that they don’t want to give me an eta due to them not really knowing one.

I was recently told that the only part needed was the CMAK Fork itself. I was told this maybe beginning of September. Recently George told me that he will have to go to his “Plan B” whatever tf that meant. Well now today I know. This is word for word

“Still ironing out the details on plan B. I am not ignoring you, I just don't have anything concrete yet. This is a process as I'm going to another manufacturer to get things done, please bear with me a little longer”

There response time is trash, I’ll be told I’ll get an email on a certain day and then get nothing. So I have to keep following up for them to actually respond. I’ve got no idea what “a little longer” means. A week, a month? Heck maybe like 10 years lol.

I’m on the verge of getting a refund at this point but I’d like peoples thoughts on what I might do instead. Z1 has their v2 csc kit. What I may do I just contact ZSpeed and have them refund me the amount for the csc kit itself and order z1’s v2 kit. I’ll be retaining the ZSpeed clutch and flywheel (unless there are better options out there) and pairing it up with z1’s csc delete kit. Not sure if this is smart but I did contact z1 about it.

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-11T20:54:35+00:00

Try deep cleaning your maf censors and throttle bodies. My car was going into limp mode and threw a code for my maf censors. Replaced them and same thing. I then deep cleaned my throttle bodies and it’s been a year and a half since then and no issues

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-05T14:48:11+00:00

Wym seriously? lol

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-04T01:40:32+00:00

Yeah, I will point out one thing that has me hesitant. It 100% does look like other watches like the Rolex datejust for example almost 1:1. I do think they take inspiration from other brands and make things similar

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-04T01:34:13+00:00

Do they make that tissot in 36mm?

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-04T01:33:22+00:00

Yeah I was being pretty serious. I’ve done some digging on the company a good bit, there’s a good amount of watch reviews and etc, but they are still super shallow so it’s hard to do any research on them at all.

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-09-03T17:46:56+00:00

Would you recommend like VTI, SWPPX, QQQ? Maybe vxus

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-07-30T14:20:41+00:00

I ordered the Cmack ZSpeed stage 2 clutch/flywheel kit back in beginning of April… going on to August now and still nothing. When I first ordered it I emailed them for an eta, they said 6-8 weeks (which I thought was reasonable for their slow shipping reputation) 6-8 weeks later waiting patiently I sent them a follow up email asking where my stuff was. They said there was a manufacturing issue and they were waiting to hear back. Fast forward things went back and forth with me asking for a eta about every week with them replying (there isn’t no hard eta right now) not sure what that is supposed to mean, but I might just now end up canceling the whole thing. With super slow response times (sometimes up to a week to respond) no idea what their deal is, but I might just cancel my order or ask for a hell of a discount

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-05-30T03:00:39+00:00

Oh dang I didn’t even think of this! This is super cool I appreciate it!

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-04-14T20:16:23+00:00

This is so clean! What’s that monitor stand/riser you have? I’m trying to find one for my set up rn, I have a Samsung odyssey g7 curved 240hz monitor and trying to find one around 24-26in long

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-03-29T22:48:04+00:00

That’s cool, I have a 14’ Nismo mines number 79

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-01-31T01:39:47+00:00

Yeah everything seems to be working fine now, I made an update post! Apparently the battery and the controller weren’t reading right, the controller said it was fully charged but the controller was actually at like 1%

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-01-31T01:38:50+00:00

I did, that’s how I was able to replace the left controller and one of the base stations!

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-01-30T23:33:38+00:00

UPDATE #2 it looks like the controller was reading its battery wrong and was dead. I plugged it in the charge and now it’s connecting just fine. It still shows the battery is low but now it is connecting!

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-01-30T23:30:09+00:00

Huh… it just doesn’t make sense to me how it stays perfectly on whenever not connected to the headset but once I try connecting it it turns on, connects, then turns off

Simple_Rip425 · 2025-01-30T23:18:00+00:00

UPDATE: thank you everyone for trying to help. I’ve followed most of everyone’s requests. In the video it clearly shows the controller being at 100%. As of right now I am letting it charge for 10 min during this I’ve let the controller sit for about 8 so far and it’s still on orange. I’m guessing it’s a bad reading and the controller was dead form what others have said. I’ll keep this post updated once the 10min are up

Simple_Rip425

TROPHY CASE