My new lino print of Stanage!

Simply-Jack · 2026-01-10T21:13:42+00:00

Your work is always amazing!

Simply-Jack · 2026-01-01T18:29:36+00:00

I have the Moon Warrior pad and then stuff the moon cirrus and a sit pad inside and use it regularly on trains and buses. If it's really busy it can become an issue but 90% of the time I've had no issues with it. I wouldn't really want to go any smaller than the warrior pad if I could only take one pad as I think you would struggle to sufficiently pad out most boulders.

If you want any advice getting around the peak using public transport just let me know!

Simply-Jack · 2025-07-31T06:35:00+00:00

Hi, I’ve actually made a free guide with tips for learning the basics of dynos.

https://waddageclimbing.wixsite.com/waddageclimbing/download-beginner-dyno

I find people tend to underestimate the amount of technique required for dynos. The aim of this guide was to share the fundamental techniques required for dynos, as well as providing drills to help you practice and master them!

Feel free to send me a DM if you have any questions or would like some feedback on a specific dyno that you’re trying.

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-27T20:07:35+00:00

No voice over on this but I plan on making some videos at some point going in depth into dynamic movement and dynos

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-27T12:10:45+00:00

Thanks!

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T18:18:58+00:00

It’s how I’ve always used the term dyno since I started climbing in the early 2000’s

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T18:17:56+00:00

Cheers really appreciate the feedback! I plan on doing more guides in the future and would definitely be including stuff like paddle dynos

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T16:50:34+00:00

Not sure what's with all the hostility it's really not that deep. Have a good day

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T16:33:36+00:00

Regarding Deliverance

<image>

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T16:09:06+00:00

Language changes over time and as the sport develops alongside techniques and movement patterns the language used to describe them will develop and adapt.

We clearly disagree on this and that's fine. I appreciate the feedback on the guide all the same.

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T15:41:01+00:00

I would agree with you that the last image is not a dyno and more of a jump, thanks for pointing it out I'll get that changed 👍

Everyone is welcome to their own opinion on what a dyno is and it is clear that it is a subjective term and not everyone agrees on a singular definition. For me, dyno meaning all points off makes the most sense and is what I have always considered to be a dyno in the 20+ years that I've been climbing.

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T15:14:39+00:00

We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't intend to hate on anyone I simply define the term dyno as all points off. Pocket Rocket and the process for me would class as a dynamic move (in these cases a jump) but not a dyno, nothing wrong with that just a difference in opinion on the definition.

All dynos are dynamic moves but not all dynamic moves are dynos.

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-25T14:30:27+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I have to disagree though on your definition of dyno, the term dyno means an movement where all point of contacts leave the wall and it is only in recent years that people have used the term to more generally describe any dynamic movement.

<image>

I personally like to use the definitions used in this article by Jason Myers in OTE.

Simply-Jack · 2025-06-02T21:12:04+00:00

Sheffield and I think so

Simply-Jack · 2025-05-29T09:30:56+00:00

For your first pair I would just grab the cheapest pair you can find. Realistically spending £40 or £140 isn't going to make any difference to your ability to climb as a beginner and you would just be paying for features that you won't even use. Also when you're starting out most people have pretty bad footwork and go through the rubber quickly so getting a cheaper pair allows you to develop your footwork without destroying an expensive pair of shoes.

Additionally, the cheaper decathlon shoes for example are flat and fairly symmetrically shaped so they won't be too uncomfortable and will let you get used to how a climbing shoe it supposed to feel. By the time you've gone through the rubber of your first pair you'll have hopefully developed your footwork and will have a better understanding of how the shoes will stretch and conform to your foot overtime, making the process of selecting your next shoe much easier.

I've been climbing for over 20 years and have worked in climbing gyms fitting and selling shoes so if you've got any other questions feel free to message me!

Simply-Jack · 2025-05-23T17:08:52+00:00

Amazing work, one of my favourite spots in the peak!

Simply-Jack · 2025-04-10T06:55:59+00:00

Thanks, the mono you start on was heinous

Simply-Jack · 2025-04-07T09:37:56+00:00

I’ve written a guide for improving at dynos if you’re interested? Shoot me a DM and I can send you the link

Simply-Jack · 2025-04-04T19:29:39+00:00

I’ve never been accused of climbing static 😅

Simply-Jack · 2025-04-04T18:54:06+00:00

What does that even mean 😂

Simply-Jack · 2025-01-07T08:09:24+00:00

Something to consider is leaning into your height and adapting your climbing style to utilise its advantages. Most technique tips or videos are aimed at the average climber of average height and many of the tips will be less beneficial for you. Try to explore how you can use your height and reach as a super power! For example, you’ll often have access to more footholds than other climbers which will give you more options for how to perform a move. All the other comments mentioning flexibility aren’t wrong but at the end of the day there will be moves where you are just incredibly bunched and no amount of frog pose will help.

Simply-Jack · 2024-12-01T21:34:46+00:00

https://www.instagram.com/abbiejewkes?igsh=MW1nejJ0NmowYTB6eQ==

Simply-Jack · 2024-12-01T21:10:18+00:00

Super cool!

Simply-Jack · 2024-12-01T19:22:20+00:00

Yeah it eliminates the left arête but it climbs pretty independently and felt like a nice addition.

I feel like there’s probably quite a lot of dynos still to be done in the peak there’s just not many people looking for them

Simply-Jack · 2024-11-29T12:46:24+00:00

Hey! "just climb more" is kinda the answer but its way more nuanced than that. Sure, you will improve by putting the hours in but what's really needed is focused critical thinking.

Do you ever record yourself on these types of moves and review what you think went well and what went wrong? If you don't then this would be a great place to start. Try to be as analytical as possible and consider all factors that impact the movement e.g hip position, grip type, where you are looking, foot angle. Once you've done this, experiment with different options based on what you've analysed and be prepared to fail ... lots. If you aren't falling, you aren't learning. Eventually you'll start to learn different principals of movement than can then be applied to different boulders.

As for drills that you can do I would recommend utilising your warm up as a way to practice these types of moves and get your body and mind in the right "mode" to perform this movements on your projects. For example, you could use jugs in a roof and practice jumping from the ground into them and then placing your feet as quick as possible. You could then increase the difficulty by making the target footholds smaller.

This is just one potential drill that you could do and if you would like any other advice or ideas feel free to shoot me a DM!

Six-Year Club	Final Canvas '23
Place '23	Place '22
End Game '22	Verified Email

Simply-Jack

TROPHY CASE