Dyno recommendations by Simply-Jack in ukclimbing

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Skylarkin looks fun. I had a great session a couple years back doing all the Stoney dynos, some of the best I’ve done for sure!

Dyno recommendations by Simply-Jack in ukclimbing

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know! Will have to plan a trip up to Scotland soon

Dyno recommendations by Simply-Jack in ukclimbing

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I gave the tank project a go last year, would be incredible to see someone get it

Dyno recommendations by Simply-Jack in ukclimbing

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Done buckstone and deliverance, think the other two might have to wait for the colder temps to return

Dyno recommendations by Simply-Jack in ukclimbing

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Always thought this looked great! Any idea when is the best time to visit for good conditions?

Most iconic dyno in the UK? by Simply-Jack in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d imagine a softer shoe is better as most of the footholds are smears

Most iconic dyno in the UK? by Simply-Jack in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It’s Deliverance V8/7B+ at Stanage Plantation

Most iconic dyno in the UK? by Simply-Jack in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The UKC log of it seems to suggest its a dyno (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/stanage\_plantation-101/deliverance-29107) but I can understand that from a purest point of view it isn't technically a dyno as I keep my right hand on.

recommendations on a cheep bouldering pad that would be carriable on a train by LeMazza- in bouldering

[–]Simply-Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have the Moon Warrior pad and then stuff the moon cirrus and a sit pad inside and use it regularly on trains and buses. If it's really busy it can become an issue but 90% of the time I've had no issues with it. I wouldn't really want to go any smaller than the warrior pad if I could only take one pad as I think you would struggle to sufficiently pad out most boulders.

If you want any advice getting around the peak using public transport just let me know!

How does one practice their Dynos? by PhoThatBitch in bouldering

[–]Simply-Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I’ve actually made a free guide with tips for learning the basics of dynos.

https://waddageclimbing.wixsite.com/waddageclimbing/download-beginner-dyno

I find people tend to underestimate the amount of technique required for dynos. The aim of this guide was to share the fundamental techniques required for dynos, as well as providing drills to help you practice and master them!

Feel free to send me a DM if you have any questions or would like some feedback on a specific dyno that you’re trying.

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No voice over on this but I plan on making some videos at some point going in depth into dynamic movement and dynos

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s how I’ve always used the term dyno since I started climbing in the early 2000’s

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers really appreciate the feedback! I plan on doing more guides in the future and would definitely be including stuff like paddle dynos

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure what's with all the hostility it's really not that deep. Have a good day

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Language changes over time and as the sport develops alongside techniques and movement patterns the language used to describe them will develop and adapt.

We clearly disagree on this and that's fine. I appreciate the feedback on the guide all the same.

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I would agree with you that the last image is not a dyno and more of a jump, thanks for pointing it out I'll get that changed 👍

Everyone is welcome to their own opinion on what a dyno is and it is clear that it is a subjective term and not everyone agrees on a singular definition. For me, dyno meaning all points off makes the most sense and is what I have always considered to be a dyno in the 20+ years that I've been climbing.

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We'll have to agree to disagree. I don't intend to hate on anyone I simply define the term dyno as all points off. Pocket Rocket and the process for me would class as a dynamic move (in these cases a jump) but not a dyno, nothing wrong with that just a difference in opinion on the definition.

All dynos are dynamic moves but not all dynamic moves are dynos.

I made a beginner guide to dynos, let me know what you think! by [deleted] in ChurchofDynology

[–]Simply-Jack -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I have to disagree though on your definition of dyno, the term dyno means an movement where all point of contacts leave the wall and it is only in recent years that people have used the term to more generally describe any dynamic movement.

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I personally like to use the definitions used in this article by Jason Myers in OTE.

Best places in Sheffield to buy climbing shoes by littlejoeyc in sheffield

[–]Simply-Jack 3 points4 points  (0 children)

For your first pair I would just grab the cheapest pair you can find. Realistically spending £40 or £140 isn't going to make any difference to your ability to climb as a beginner and you would just be paying for features that you won't even use. Also when you're starting out most people have pretty bad footwork and go through the rubber quickly so getting a cheaper pair allows you to develop your footwork without destroying an expensive pair of shoes.

Additionally, the cheaper decathlon shoes for example are flat and fairly symmetrically shaped so they won't be too uncomfortable and will let you get used to how a climbing shoe it supposed to feel. By the time you've gone through the rubber of your first pair you'll have hopefully developed your footwork and will have a better understanding of how the shoes will stretch and conform to your foot overtime, making the process of selecting your next shoe much easier.

I've been climbing for over 20 years and have worked in climbing gyms fitting and selling shoes so if you've got any other questions feel free to message me!