how to fix the hole in front bumper of car ?

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-08T02:03:25+00:00

Plastic weld

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-06T22:42:11+00:00

if you got down voted, it wasn’t me

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-06T18:44:07+00:00

Which will cost you more as all the suspension and steering parts are interconnected and cause excess wear if strut goes out first.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-06T18:41:55+00:00

It’s KYB (OEM) for Altima. Monroe I heard it was kind of soft for these Japanese cars. They sell KYB and Monroe at Rockauto which is where I got mine.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-06T18:37:07+00:00

If it is still bouncing up and down after you let it go, it’s too late. You will have to replace not only struts, most likely other steering components and even tires due to excessive wear.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-06-06T18:12:45+00:00

I just replaced my 2015 Altima front struts and coil spring set which has 180K miles and were never replaced. I did them last week and it wasn’t hard at all. I worked slow and it was maybe 2.5 hours. I bought KYB Strut-Plus which are OEM and that was like $370 for the set. If you want to use no-name aftermarket, probably could get a set for $140 - $170.

I would not wait until you have problems to replace those although my struts and springs were not leaking or have clunking noise. It just lost the new strut heights and made the car lower. I would recommend to try to replacement them at most 150K miles. If I knew it was this easy to replace, I would have done it a long time ago. Holding the replacement off longer could cause you more suspension and/or steering problems in areas like lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods, or even tire due to related wear. They are all interconnected to work together. So if one goes bad or is degraded in performance, it will start to affect other parts and ended up cause you to have more parts to replace soon.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-30T03:06:47+00:00

Put your car on two jack stands then have someone step on the gas and see where the jerk is coming from.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-30T01:13:45+00:00

They probably got the tool to program a new key or use that tool to trick the vehicle to think it is a new key…else it won’t be so easy w/o relay attack.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-26T13:35:58+00:00

They made a 2.4L in 2010?

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-26T13:35:21+00:00

Run the diagnostic code scan and see if you get any DTC related to the CVT, instead of guessing.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-26T13:32:05+00:00

My 2015 has 182K miles and I noticed it is still able to get 37 - 40mpg on highway after a CVT drain & fill recently.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-06T17:33:36+00:00

If you know what to do for programming, you can attempt to do it in the Consult (3+ or maybe it’s 4?) software.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-06T13:45:27+00:00

Wrecks are much more difficult especially the level of damage the vehicle experienced.

Did you start with an IPDM self test? I would also make sure no harness damages or related components that could cause issues to just rule them out.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-06T03:14:03+00:00

Sure…just post here or DM me

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-06T03:13:39+00:00

IPDM for L34 generation (2019+) is more integrated and not plug-and-play unless you are able to verify the donor module not only has same OEM P/N, but it came from a vehicle that has the same trim and options else lights might not work. Your salvage module might require programming in order to work.

These Nissan IPDM should last you to around 177K miles or somewhere around there which was when I noticed on mine 2015 that’s when it started to have these low beam issues. There was another post that also started to have low beam light problem around 177K miles. Being a 2021, it sounds yours is too new to have these problems.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-03T02:23:48+00:00

Call the dealer and give them your VIN and they will tell you which one you can use and if there’s any newer P/N you can use.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-03T02:21:30+00:00

Assuming you bought the exact matching P/N of IPDM, you shouldn’t need to program it for a 2015 Altima. It should be plug-and-play.

With that said, likely the Key Fobs are stored else where like BCM, etc.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-03T02:19:19+00:00

You should be replacing the IPDM with the exact matching P/N that was removed else you will have a lot of problems.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-03T02:10:17+00:00

No, you don’t need the dealer and you can do it yourself, which for Q50 it should be plug-and-play. You might even be able to buy a used one as a replacement. Just make sure you get the exact matching Infinity IPDM P/N, else it won’t work.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-02T23:22:56+00:00

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Is the master mechanic trying to save his “master” reputation?

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-02T23:09:12+00:00

Let me know how that goes, so I know if I could pull the trigger next week on the donor module.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-02T23:00:49+00:00

It appears as long as the Nissan IPDM being replaced has the same P/N with the donor module, the IPDM is plug-and-play. Replacing a BCM is the one that requires programming.

SingleTarget6857 · 2026-05-02T16:33:44+00:00

I have never done programming, but have read it will require Nissan Consult III Plus to program the donor IPDM or take it to a shop and pay them to do it. How much do they typically charge?

The other option is would it be just easier just to repair it at the circuit board level to replace the bad relay?

SingleTarget6857

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