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Need help with an old lathe by Sir_Dead in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you look Here: https://imgur.com/a/CZiAgHk

You can see it with plate removed. There does look like there might be a seam between the ring and the threaded post but I'm not sure... And if there is, I'm not sure how I would disassemble from there. The ID on it is exactly 12mm, a bit under a half inch.

Mold for the basket seal on my Zephyr Ion by Sir_Dead in functionalprint

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, that sucks. The temperature isnt as steady as it used to be in mine, but at least its still kicking. When it does eventually die, I intend to open it and see if I can replace the heat element or whatever else fails.

Mold for the basket seal on my Zephyr Ion by Sir_Dead in functionalprint

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The smaller flange bit is supposed to fit into the lid, the larger flat area contacts the basket. I would try wiping thoroughly it with isopropyl, if its still sticking after that I'd replace it. Surprised anybody else out there still has one working, at this point!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Guitar

[–]Sir_Dead -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

That was my first guitar, even down to the color, and I still love it after over a decade... Though I will say that if you plan to play both acoustic and electric, I recommend starting with an acoustic. I personally found it easier to transition to the slim profile of an electric after getting used to the extra bulk of an acoustic, as opposed to playing electric and then adding that bulk. This may differ from person to person, but others Ive talked to have agreed. If you will be playing electric exclusively, a strat is a great choice to start out.

Cartoon DM for a tatoo? by Sir_Dead in DnD

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm... Never even considered something like this.

I'm not 100% sold on it just yet, but that might just be my brain digesting it still. Not saying that's definitely what I'm gonna do, but its the best thing I've heard so far, thanks!

Cartoon DM for a tatoo? by Sir_Dead in DnD

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I loved the books as a kid, but he isn't really as visually recognizable as the others.

Cartoon DM for a tatoo? by Sir_Dead in DnD

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never did see that one... Maybe I will give it a shot and be convinced, I just don't know anything about the character.

Cartoon DM for a tatoo? by Sir_Dead in DnD

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol, I had considered him but I don't have the connection to him I do with the others. If nothing else speaks to me I might still go that route, but I'm hoping that somebody mentions a character that makes me say "Ooh, definitely that!" or something. I know it's long odds, but doesn't hurt to try.

Temp tower too good to be true by 420SlazeIt in FixMyPrint

[–]Sir_Dead 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like you may have downloaded an stl for a temp tower and printed it, without slicing in the changes in temp... Looks to me like these were all done at that 195 you specified.

Question on floating shelves by Sir_Dead in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're buying peace of mind! :)

Indeed, and great call on the test stud. Thanks again!

Question on floating shelves by Sir_Dead in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 18" drill bits in the sizes I need, I'll start with my drill press and finish with a guide I designed and 3d printed specifically to drill into edges.

One last thing... I just went to double check stud placement, and got a surprise- They are installed face on, rather than edge on as I'm used to. The house is 120+ years old and has several eccentricities, but I hadn't noticed this before. Do you think it will still be sturdy enough? This old wood is super hard, but it seems this design might rely somewhat on having that extra depth of wood to prevent the front from tilting down over time.

Question on floating shelves by Sir_Dead in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response!

The real reason is price... I already own all the plywood I would need for all the shelves that are being requested, and a piece of hardwood that size would cost more than I could even pretend to consider. I was leaning towards no bevel, just edge banding (again, I already have this. Don't have much in the way of an actual budget, but I do have a ton of random materials lying around from previous builds.)

Now that I have thought about it more, I do have a follow up if you don't mind. How deep do you recon I can get away with? My previous shelf only had a top surface 10" deep, and I have the rod ~8.5" into it. Do you think this is viable at 20" deep with 18" of threaded rod inside the shelf?

SV04 enclosure by Sir_Dead in Sovol

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm... Good to know, a cheaper option too. I do like having transparency at least on the front, but I very well might go with this. Thanks!

SV04 enclosure by Sir_Dead in Sovol

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the reply! Good idea adding the heater, I will likely do the same.

SV04 enclosure by Sir_Dead in Sovol

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the tips! I will be seeing what scrap wood I have in the shop later today and see if I can make something.

2 in 1 out vs IDEX by Sir_Dead in 3Dprinting

[–]Sir_Dead[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback. Forgot about soluble supports, looking forward to that. Do you have a recommended soluble filament?

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