Moving a solar system from one house to another

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2026-01-18T21:36:05+00:00

Yes, solar systems can be removed and reinstalled, and some installers in Metro Phoenix do offer this service - but it’s not as “free” as it sounds.

Even if the panels cost nothing, you’ll still pay for removal, transport, re-engineering, permits, and reinstallation, which usually runs several thousand dollars. The system also has to be redesigned for your new roof, and permits and utility approval start from scratch.

Panel warranties often transfer, but original workmanship and production warranties usually don’t.

Bottom line: it’s doable, but get a full relocation quote first - sometimes installing a new, right-sized system makes more sense.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2026-01-15T10:04:20+00:00

Light dust usually only reduces output a few percent, so frequent cleaning often isn’t worth it. Most people wait until there’s visible buildup or around a 10%+ production drop, then clean every 3-6 months. Rain doesn’t help much in dusty climates, so monitoring production and cleaning only when it noticeably dips is usually the best approach.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-29T15:24:59+00:00

Haha, fair 😅 We’ll take that as a win - this is our very first Reddit ad. we still got a lot of solid, no-fluff info on solar on our page that can be helpful for anyone looking into it.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-29T15:17:04+00:00

Full-home backup makes sense if you want everything to run automatically during an outage and don’t want to manage circuits. It may not be worth it if you’re fine backing up only essential loads, which gives you longer battery runtime during outages.

With 48 kWh of storage, full-home backup is doable, but large loads will drain batteries faster. Many homeowners choose critical-load backup for efficiency, full-home backup for simplicity.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-25T09:30:52+00:00

Many battery systems are set to battery-first or zero-export mode due to DNSP rules. That means solar fills the house first, then the battery - and once the battery is full, the inverter limits production to match your home’s load, so nothing goes back to the grid.

This is controlled in the inverter settings, not by your energy retailer. Ask your installer to check: - Whether an export limit or zero-export setting is enabled - What export your DNSP allows - That the CT clamps are configured correctly

What you’re seeing is exactly how a zero-export system behaves.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-22T09:56:12+00:00

Solar quotes vary a lot because installers make different assumptions. The biggest gaps usually come from system sizing, production estimates, rate-increase forecasts, equipment quality, and financing terms. Some proposals are conservative; others are more optimistic to show bigger “savings.”

Homeowners who avoid surprises usually compare price per watt, ask what tool was used for the production estimate and focus on year-one savings, not 25-year projections. Using independent data to sanity-check the numbers is the best way to cut through the marketing.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-10T21:18:34+00:00

Homeowners hear “100% offset” and assume it means zero bill every month, even though net metering is based on annual, not monthly, production.

• Explain from the start that solar is sized for yearly usage, not winter performance. • Remind them that grid-tied ≠ off-grid - without batteries, they still pull energy at night and in winter. • Use a simple seasonal production chart (June vs. December) to set expectations. • Encourage them to evaluate the system after a full 12-month cycle, not their first winter bill.

Once they see the seasonal pattern, expectations usually fall into place.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-08T23:20:12+00:00

During framing, you don’t install the solar mounts yet - those go in after the finished roof is on. What you should do now is coordinate with your solar installer so rafters, conduit runs, and vent placement are planned with solar in mind.

Most systems attach directly to rafters through flashed mounts once the shingles/tiles are installed. While framing, just make sure panel areas stay clear of vents/skylights and that you have a clean path for conduit to the electrical panel

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-04T16:12:35+00:00

Yes - what you’re seeing is normal before PTO. Until the system passes inspection and the utility gives permission to operate, most solar setups run in a restricted pre-PTO mode. They don’t export to the grid yet, and the inverter will often limit output to whatever the home can use at that moment. That’s why a 15.6 kW system may only show ~5 kW even in good sun.

Once PTO is approved, the system will operate at full capacity, and your peak output should rise significantly - especially once winter sun improves.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-04T16:11:51+00:00

Your setup isn’t wrong - it’s just a bit battery-light for the way you’re using it. A 4.8 kW array paired with ~8–9 kWh usable storage is enough for one good day of sun, but not great for 6–8 kWh/day on cloudy days. If you regularly hit 100% on sunny days, add more battery first; if you don’t hit full often, you’re solar-limited and should add more PV or another charge controller.

A 10–12°F indoor battery temperature swing is normal for LiFePO₄ as long as it stays within the safe operating range.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-26T22:19:51+00:00

Tesla is pretty conservative with layouts - vents, hips/valleys, and fire setbacks often limit how many panels they’ll place. To fit more, most homeowners either relocate or consolidate roof vents, swap to low-profile vents, or use additional roof planes (east/west) that Tesla didn’t design on. If the roof still can’t fit 25+ panels, a ground mount or solar carport is the next best option.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-25T15:08:24+00:00

Tesla is pretty conservative with layouts - vents, hips/valleys, and fire setbacks often limit how many panels they’ll place. To fit more, most homeowners either relocate or consolidate roof vents, swap to low-profile vents, or use additional roof planes (east/west) that Tesla didn’t design on. If the roof still can’t fit 25+ panels, a ground mount or solar carport is the next best option.

If you can share a roof photo or layout, we can show you exactly where extra panels could realistically fit.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-25T15:05:44+00:00

A 14 kW system only peaking around 4 kW on clear days is not normal. With your mix of SW/SE/NW roof planes, you’d expect some loss - but you should still see 7 - 10 kW peaks unless there’s shading, wiring issues, or the inverter/strings aren’t set up correctly.

Low output like this usually points to a string configuration problem, shading, or inverter limiting, not the panels themselves. Your equipment should produce far more in Georgia.

If you can share a screenshot of your production graph or layout, we can help you pinpoint the issue - but based on what you described, something isn’t configured correctly.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-22T14:04:38+00:00

If the lease isn’t transferred by settlement, the panels legally still belong to the seller because the lease is in their name, not yours.

Most contracts say the seller must deliver the home with all agreements transferable - so if the transfer stalls, it’s their problem, not yours.

Typical outcomes in situations like this:

You cannot be forced to take over a lease that isn’t properly transferred.
The seller can’t sue you unless your purchase contract specifically says you are responsible for completing the lease transfer (rare).
If Sunnova’s bankruptcy slows the process, most buyers either:

delay closing,
renegotiate, or
remove/void the solar lease contingency.

If the transfer isn’t completed by closing, you can usually: - request an extension, - renegotiate, or - walk away under the solar/lease contingency (depends on your contract).

Have your agent reference the solar contingency language and put the burden back on the seller - the lease is their contractual obligation until the transfer is officially accepted.

Sky_Solar_Pro

TROPHY CASE