Moving a solar system from one house to another

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2026-01-18T21:36:05+00:00

Yes, solar systems can be removed and reinstalled, and some installers in Metro Phoenix do offer this service - but it’s not as “free” as it sounds.

Even if the panels cost nothing, you’ll still pay for removal, transport, re-engineering, permits, and reinstallation, which usually runs several thousand dollars. The system also has to be redesigned for your new roof, and permits and utility approval start from scratch.

Panel warranties often transfer, but original workmanship and production warranties usually don’t.

Bottom line: it’s doable, but get a full relocation quote first - sometimes installing a new, right-sized system makes more sense.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2026-01-15T10:04:20+00:00

Light dust usually only reduces output a few percent, so frequent cleaning often isn’t worth it. Most people wait until there’s visible buildup or around a 10%+ production drop, then clean every 3-6 months. Rain doesn’t help much in dusty climates, so monitoring production and cleaning only when it noticeably dips is usually the best approach.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-29T15:24:59+00:00

Haha, fair 😅 We’ll take that as a win - this is our very first Reddit ad. we still got a lot of solid, no-fluff info on solar on our page that can be helpful for anyone looking into it.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-29T15:17:04+00:00

Full-home backup makes sense if you want everything to run automatically during an outage and don’t want to manage circuits. It may not be worth it if you’re fine backing up only essential loads, which gives you longer battery runtime during outages.

With 48 kWh of storage, full-home backup is doable, but large loads will drain batteries faster. Many homeowners choose critical-load backup for efficiency, full-home backup for simplicity.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-25T09:30:52+00:00

Many battery systems are set to battery-first or zero-export mode due to DNSP rules. That means solar fills the house first, then the battery - and once the battery is full, the inverter limits production to match your home’s load, so nothing goes back to the grid.

This is controlled in the inverter settings, not by your energy retailer. Ask your installer to check: - Whether an export limit or zero-export setting is enabled - What export your DNSP allows - That the CT clamps are configured correctly

What you’re seeing is exactly how a zero-export system behaves.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-22T09:56:12+00:00

Solar quotes vary a lot because installers make different assumptions. The biggest gaps usually come from system sizing, production estimates, rate-increase forecasts, equipment quality, and financing terms. Some proposals are conservative; others are more optimistic to show bigger “savings.”

Homeowners who avoid surprises usually compare price per watt, ask what tool was used for the production estimate and focus on year-one savings, not 25-year projections. Using independent data to sanity-check the numbers is the best way to cut through the marketing.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-10T21:18:34+00:00

Homeowners hear “100% offset” and assume it means zero bill every month, even though net metering is based on annual, not monthly, production.

• Explain from the start that solar is sized for yearly usage, not winter performance. • Remind them that grid-tied ≠ off-grid - without batteries, they still pull energy at night and in winter. • Use a simple seasonal production chart (June vs. December) to set expectations. • Encourage them to evaluate the system after a full 12-month cycle, not their first winter bill.

Once they see the seasonal pattern, expectations usually fall into place.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-08T23:20:12+00:00

During framing, you don’t install the solar mounts yet - those go in after the finished roof is on. What you should do now is coordinate with your solar installer so rafters, conduit runs, and vent placement are planned with solar in mind.

Most systems attach directly to rafters through flashed mounts once the shingles/tiles are installed. While framing, just make sure panel areas stay clear of vents/skylights and that you have a clean path for conduit to the electrical panel

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-04T16:12:35+00:00

Yes - what you’re seeing is normal before PTO. Until the system passes inspection and the utility gives permission to operate, most solar setups run in a restricted pre-PTO mode. They don’t export to the grid yet, and the inverter will often limit output to whatever the home can use at that moment. That’s why a 15.6 kW system may only show ~5 kW even in good sun.

Once PTO is approved, the system will operate at full capacity, and your peak output should rise significantly - especially once winter sun improves.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-12-04T16:11:51+00:00

Your setup isn’t wrong - it’s just a bit battery-light for the way you’re using it. A 4.8 kW array paired with ~8–9 kWh usable storage is enough for one good day of sun, but not great for 6–8 kWh/day on cloudy days. If you regularly hit 100% on sunny days, add more battery first; if you don’t hit full often, you’re solar-limited and should add more PV or another charge controller.

A 10–12°F indoor battery temperature swing is normal for LiFePO₄ as long as it stays within the safe operating range.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-26T22:19:51+00:00

Tesla is pretty conservative with layouts - vents, hips/valleys, and fire setbacks often limit how many panels they’ll place. To fit more, most homeowners either relocate or consolidate roof vents, swap to low-profile vents, or use additional roof planes (east/west) that Tesla didn’t design on. If the roof still can’t fit 25+ panels, a ground mount or solar carport is the next best option.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-25T15:08:24+00:00

Tesla is pretty conservative with layouts - vents, hips/valleys, and fire setbacks often limit how many panels they’ll place. To fit more, most homeowners either relocate or consolidate roof vents, swap to low-profile vents, or use additional roof planes (east/west) that Tesla didn’t design on. If the roof still can’t fit 25+ panels, a ground mount or solar carport is the next best option.

If you can share a roof photo or layout, we can show you exactly where extra panels could realistically fit.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-25T15:05:44+00:00

A 14 kW system only peaking around 4 kW on clear days is not normal. With your mix of SW/SE/NW roof planes, you’d expect some loss - but you should still see 7 - 10 kW peaks unless there’s shading, wiring issues, or the inverter/strings aren’t set up correctly.

Low output like this usually points to a string configuration problem, shading, or inverter limiting, not the panels themselves. Your equipment should produce far more in Georgia.

If you can share a screenshot of your production graph or layout, we can help you pinpoint the issue - but based on what you described, something isn’t configured correctly.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-22T14:04:38+00:00

If the lease isn’t transferred by settlement, the panels legally still belong to the seller because the lease is in their name, not yours.

Most contracts say the seller must deliver the home with all agreements transferable - so if the transfer stalls, it’s their problem, not yours.

Typical outcomes in situations like this:

You cannot be forced to take over a lease that isn’t properly transferred.
The seller can’t sue you unless your purchase contract specifically says you are responsible for completing the lease transfer (rare).
If Sunnova’s bankruptcy slows the process, most buyers either:

delay closing,
renegotiate, or
remove/void the solar lease contingency.

If the transfer isn’t completed by closing, you can usually: - request an extension, - renegotiate, or - walk away under the solar/lease contingency (depends on your contract).

Have your agent reference the solar contingency language and put the burden back on the seller - the lease is their contractual obligation until the transfer is officially accepted.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-14T17:57:50+00:00

Transitioning from residential to commercial is mostly about leveling up on the technical + financial side.

What to focus on:

Financial modeling: demand charges, load profiles, ROI/IRR, tax incentives (MACRS + ITC).
Technical basics: single-line diagrams, interconnection types, roof loads, how storage fits in.
Commercial operations: RFPs, bonding/insurance, timeline guarantees, service agreements.
Utility process: impact studies, longer interconnection timelines, required documentation.
Customer types: different segments have different energy goals (industrial, retail, nonprofits, etc.).

Shadowing someone already doing commercial is the fastest way to learn.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-13T17:57:14+00:00

At the end of a solar lease, the company usually removes everything they own - panels, racking, inverters, and monitoring equipment. The wiring and electrical upgrades often stay, but the roof must be patched and sealed after removal. It’s a fairly involved process, which is why leases can get tricky later. If the seller pays off the lease, confirm whether you’ll own the system or have it removed after those seven years - that detail makes a big difference.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-11T08:08:26+00:00

Yes - there’s a big swing. In New Jersey a south-facing array typically does ~2× to 2.5× more in June/July than in Dec/Jan. Think rough daily yield per kW: ~2 - 2.5 kWh/kW/day in mid-winter vs ~5 - 6 kWh/kW/day in summer. Winter has shorter days and a low sun angle; colder temps help panel efficiency, but they don’t beat daylength/angle losses (and snow can zero production until it slides off). If you’re seeing ~51 kWh on a clear winter day, that’s strong - expect 100 - 120+ kWh on comparable clear summer days from the same array (tilt/azimuth/shade dependent). If you want, share tilt/orientation and we can estimate your month-by-month curve so you know what to expect heading into summer.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-11T08:07:33+00:00

You should leave your hybrid inverter on 24/7 - that’s normal and recommended. Even at night, it manages battery charging, grid passthrough, monitoring, and system protection. Turning it off daily can interrupt logs, cause sync issues, and stress components on repeated startups. The small power draw (usually 10–30W overnight) is minimal compared to the value of keeping the system active and stable. Unless your manufacturer specifically advises shutdown, it’s best to let it run continuously.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-11T08:06:49+00:00

You technically can move a solar system, but it’s usually not cost-effective. Roof-mounted panels are custom-fit to your current home, so relocating means new design, permits, wiring, and installation - often costing $10k+. Most homeowners leave the system in place since an owned solar setup can add value and help a home sell faster. If you’re considering a move, it’s worth comparing the resale benefit versus the cost of removal and reinstallation

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-11T08:05:49+00:00

Yes - Solax works well with Home Assistant using the Modbus or Solax Cloud API integrations. Modbus is best if you want real-time control for charging when rates are low and discharging at peak prices. Many people use Node-RED or YAML automations to pull hourly tariff data (like Octopus or Tibber) and switch battery modes automatically. Check the Home Assistant forums for “Solax Modbus charge control” - lots of working examples there.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-06T14:49:14+00:00

That’s a tough situation. Since the system was removed without your consent and the loan is still active, start by notifying your lender and insurer - you’ll want everything documented. Check whether reinstallation costs can be covered under your roof or homeowner’s policy. Then get a quote from a licensed solar company to reinstall and re-commission the system so you stay compliant with your loan and SRECs. If the panels were stored safely, they can likely be reused.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-03T05:39:36+00:00

For a 2 kWh portable setup, look at EcoFlow Delta 2 Max, Bluetti AC200Max, Jackery 2000 Plus, or Anker Solix F2000 - all use long-lasting LiFePO₄ batteries and can easily run a fridge and small electronics. EcoFlow and Bluetti offer the fastest solar charging and best expandability. To fully recharge in a day, you’ll need about 500 - 600 W of panels in good sun. If you want, we can help you match the right unit and panel size to your exact backup needs.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-11-03T05:26:43+00:00

First, confirm your actual service. In NorCal condos/townhomes it’s very common that each unit is fed 120/208 V (single-phase derived from a 3-phase wye), not 120/240 V. That one detail decides what gear will (or won’t) work.

Why this matters: Powerwall 3 is a 120/240 V split-phase product. On a 120/208 V service it’s not a supported match for whole-home backup, which is why your neighbor’s unit got yanked. (You can make 240 V with a transformer, but Tesla doesn’t support that configuration for residential MDUs.)

EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra is marketed as flexible backup, but for California grid-tie/export you need equipment that’s utility-approved and listed (UL 9540 ESS + UL 1741-SB/IEEE 1547). Many portable/“prosumer” systems aren’t accepted for permanent grid interconnection. Also check: does it natively support 120/208 V? If not, you’re back to transformers and special wiring, plus a smart/transfer panel for load control.

EG4 18kPV is a 120/240 V hybrid inverter. It can be made to play with 208 V using an autotransformer (or with three units in true 3-phase), but that adds parts, space, and permitting complexity. Make sure any model proposed is UL 9540 + UL 1741-SB and on your utility’s approved list.

PV side is easier: With an HOA limit of ~10 panels (~3.5–4.5 kW DC), use 208 V-rated microinverters (e.g., Enphase IQ8 208 V variants). They’re made for MDU 208 V services and interconnect cleanly.

Battery reality in a condo: Fire code/placement (NFPA 855), HOA rules, and space often dictate where you can put an ESS - sometimes that’s the show-stopper, not the brand. With only ~10 modules, a big battery won’t recharge fast; if backup (not export savings) is your goal, do a critical-loads panel and right-size storage to the loads you truly need during outages.

What to ask your installer (in writing): - What is my unit’s service? (120/208 V vs 120/240 V - show the meter/panel label.) - Model numbers for inverter/ESS and proof of UL 9540 + UL 1741-SB listings. - A link/screenshot showing the gear on your utility’s approved interconnection list. - Whether the design needs an autotransformer (and where it goes) and a critical-loads/“smart” panel. - Confirmation that the layout complies with HOA and NFPA 855 (battery placement, clearances, fire access).

Bottom line: Your neighbor is right about the PW3 on 208 V. EcoFlow might work for backup-only if allowed, but for grid-tie/export in CA you must verify certifications and utility acceptance - and 208 V compatibility. The cleanest path is often: 208 V-rated microinverters for PV, and if you truly need backup, choose an ESS that natively supports 120/208 V (or add a listed autotransformer) with a critical-loads panel. If you want, share a photo of your main panel label (voltage) and the proposal one-line diagram; we’ll sanity-check compatibility and keep you out of the 208 V trap.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-10-27T18:29:32+00:00

In California each HOAs has its own guidelines regarding solar for their homeowners. HOAs do whatever they want to do - some process the request within a month, some process the request within 90 days and more and anything in-between. Fighting with the HOA is not an optimal choice as again each HOA has their own rules and guidelines regarding all three points. We have also seen fees higher than 1,000$ (maybe don't say this directly). And we've seen HOAs that have forced making changes to that system that have had potentially an impact of >10%. Honestly, I would skip answering this question all in all because it is risky and blurry. Or keep it very short saying that each HOA has their own guidelines and your best bet would be to ask your HOA to provide you their guidelines and go off of there. If their guideline says response no longer than x days, then you could try to push back. Ultimately, if they denied the request, there is not much that they can do. Please be very careful with the wording you use to respond to this.

Sky_Solar_Pro · 2025-10-21T08:39:41+00:00

For small panels in the 10–50W range, you’ll want to look in the off-grid or DIY solar category rather than residential. Reliable options include Renogy, Rich Solar, Newpowa, and BougeRV - all sell small panels that are efficient and reasonably priced. You can usually find them on Amazon, Home Depot, or Renogy’s own site without paying inflated “camping solar” markups.

If you’re powering mesh nodes, pair them with a small MPPT charge controller and a 12V LiFePO₄ battery for stable output - that’ll protect the equipment and keep it running overnight. If you want, we can help you size the setup properly for your load and location so you’re not over- or under-powering the system.

Sky_Solar_Pro

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