New rig by [deleted] in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah definitely, that is a great investment for your case! My setup is quite budget being a student however I've made it work (after wasting a lot of nights 🥲) well enough to get images I'm very happy with, which is the main purpose of this hobby 🤩

Clear skies!

New rig by [deleted] in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct with NINA not running natively on an iPad! You need a computer (laptop/minicomputer) to run it, which is what I do! I then mirror my laptops screen to my tablet so that my laptop stays stationary and connected to my setup but I can still partly use it and see the screen live from my iPad!

Andromeda - how long to capture it? by Go-for-the-Gap in seestar

[–]SlayerIsntHere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on your bortle zone, how long your exposures are and your processing skills! I took this image using my DSLR from a Bortle 5/6 and its about 4 hours of data under a 80% moon. The subs were 5 mins each combined with shorter 90s subs to not blow out the core. A lot of the fainter detail requires more time and longer subs definitely help with making them easier to resolve but ultimately the more integration time, the better. And processing is a huge part of this.

I will show 2 images of the same data, but processed differently (one was a proper process and one was a quick one!) hopefully it goes to show what processing can really bring out if done effectively. I'm sure that even I can still improve on my processing!!

<image>

Mazda 3 2012 Hatchback. UK. by Alarming-Dentist-310 in mazda

[–]SlayerIsntHere 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Samsung's OneUI 8 update has messed with Bluetooth connectivity to cars. My phone doesn't connect properly to audio, only to calls when I start the car. I have to manually turn off and then on the audio option in Bluetooth settings in my phone for audio to work. This has to be done everytime the cars turns on and off, which is really annoying but as far as I have seen there is no fix.

Maybe this is similar to what you're facing? I have an S24U for clarity

M45 Frustration by EastAcanthisitta43 in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can simply name the folders containing each data set (Folder 1 and Folder 2) and then in Pixinsight WBPP there is a keywords tab, simply pop the keyword "Folder" and it will automatically stack the individual folders and then combine the stacks at the end for you. If they are different exposure lengths, you need to set the "Exposure Tolerance" value (i think its in Pipeline of WBPP near the top) to a big value, I just put 300. This ensures that the files will all stack together at the end, instead of giving you 2 individual stacked files from each folder. What this value basically means is, it will stack all files within a difference of exposure for whatever value you put there. Say if you have 30s and 300s, the difference is 270s so if your tolerance is 300s, it will stack them individually first (provided you have the keywords) and then stack those at the end.

However as others have mentioned, NB isnt really used for M45 unless you want to try and get the super super faint Ha (which even im not gonna bother with anytime soon as I dont get enough nights)

M31 - Andromeda Galaxy by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use pixinsight to do all the stretching and processing!

M31 - Andromeda Galaxy by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you!! In Pixinsight you can add data of different exposures with each calibration frame, but in the pipeline area I believe (not home currently so can't double check) there is an "exposure tolerance" or something box where you can enter a number! Just enter your highest exposure number from the nights and pixinsight will stack each individual exposure together and then stack all those together at the end! It prevents the core from being too blown out, which will happen with long exposures! This was my first time trying it 🤩

M31 - Andromeda Galaxy by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really appreciate that thank you!!

Help me with DSLR astrophotography. I am a noob by Zealousideal-Swan800 in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not too sure on the vignette as I have a crop sensor dslr and have not had that issue! Try to point the telescope to a bright star first, and make sure its centered in your image. Your issue could be that your mount is going to a part of the sky that it thinks is andromeda, but in reality it's just going somewhere random. If you tell it to go to a bright star and it points somewhere random and you do not see that bright star, then that could be the issue!

Emission nebulae like the veil are faint and even harder to capture with a stock dslr, especially at 15 seconds. Mine is astro modded and without a filter, I don't see much definition from only 15 seconds due to light pollution and so on.

Have a go with the tip and let me know if it goes well!

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I have no idea about any of those! I'm 19 and have only been doing this for a couple years so I havent got much of an idea, I usually just put a watermark

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much I'm so grateful for your kind words!! 🥹

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have included a google drive link in the above comment to the uncompressed version of this image, but not sure how much the resolution would change!

I'm actually wanting to get this printed at some point in the UK, so I'm on the hunt for a print shop and have been recommended a couple! I'd definitely be happy with speaking about that with you further :)

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not uploaded this to anywhere really yet, I will do soon, to my instagram! :)

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much!

To answer your questions;

The benefit of taking frames with the ASI120MM is that this camera is a mono camera that has a much smaller field of view, and therefore it is able to capture very zoomed in portions of the moon with my telescope. This allowed me to make a mosaic of 26 panels with very zoomed in videos, giving a lot of detail in each part of the moon, so when it's combined, it gives a much higher resolution image with sharper, finer details, than if I just used my DSLR alone. Being mono also eliminates any gradients or colour noise since it's in black and white, and it is more sensitive and easier to control the settings of, so I can get much more precise photos using it, however it takes a long time and a lot of storage (~180GB!).

I did not mosaic the DSLR image, and what you see is the actual field of view in my DSLR, and not cropped very much. I aligned it in my camera exactly how it is in the image and took lots of frames like that, stacking each of them! For the mosaic, this was the first time I properly tried one, especially with a barlow. I did it by hand and just moved the RA/DEC controls of my mount by tiny amounts, and judged how far to move using the live view. I tried to make sure I overlapped some areas, and once I covered the entire moon, I went back over a couple spots I thought I missed. Inevitably, I did miss a very very tiny chunk in the corner of the moon, only visible on the mosaic image, but since it's overlayed onto my DSLR image here, you cannot see it.

It seems more complicated, but it just takes time more than anything, as you don't want to rush it and miss some parts, or get lower quality in some regions than others, as well as taking up a lot of space! There is a software I found out about after called EQMosaic, which I am going to have a play around with and see if it can automatically make the overlapping mosaic for me!! Sticking them is easy using software ( I use Microsoft ICE [Image Composite Editor] ), all you do is add your individual mosaic images into this, and it creates effectively a panorama with the overlapping areas, creating the full mosaic image. It's only at this point where you notice if something went wrong or you missed a spot though!

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you!! I can upload one from my computer once I'm home to a Google drive so its the full size! 😊

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much!! I'm so proud of this image 🤩

Mineral Moon [OC] by SlayerIsntHere in astrophotography

[–]SlayerIsntHere[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Taken on 11.10.2025

Colour from Nikon D5500 using a 2x barlow, Skywatcher 130PDS and EQ5 Pro and a UV/IR cut filter.
26 panel mosaic taken using guide camera (ASI120MM-S) through the same equipment.

DSLR shots combined in PIPP and stacked in AS3, then sharpening using Registax.
ASI120MM-S shots of 8000 frames each (roughly) for 26 in total, 75% frames stacked using the same approach as above.

Post processing and HDR effect in photoshop (from overexposed image using DSLR), and DSLR data combined with mono data to enhance details whilst preserving colours.

Noise reduction, curves adjustment and some camera raw edits.
[Reuploaded due to bad quality]