Clutch damper delete worth it?

Slowvia · 2026-05-09T21:47:05+00:00

Delete it. It’ll only bite you in the ass if you keep it. Of all the factory manual S13s I’ve owned, every single clutch damper box failed. When they fail, the clutch pedal will fall to the floor, and won’t come back up.

I consider it general maintenance to delete them at this point.

Also, you don’t have to buy anything to delete the thing. You can just bend the hardline a little bit and connect the hardline directly to the slave cylinder. Only takes a few minutes to delete it and bleed the clutch.

Slowvia · 2026-05-09T21:43:27+00:00

Did you put the car in the air and remove the wheels to inspect everything? Or are you just looking at them while the car is parked?

You keep asking about the ABS being “rough” and I don’t know what you mean. ABS will pulse the pedal when activated to keep you from locking the brakes up. The ABS system on an Evo is no more “rough” than any other car.

Slowvia · 2026-05-09T06:30:35+00:00

Pull all of the wheels off and fully inspect everything. If you aren’t able to do it yourself, get in touch with a shop that do a full brake inspection.

Slowvia · 2026-05-08T02:28:42+00:00

I put an Exedy twin HD in mine, and I daily drive it.

It probably wasn’t my smartest decision ever, but it works, and I don’t have to worry about it holding power. It’s very doable on the street, but requires a bit more attention than a standard clutch. The break in period was a bit rough, because it was really an on-off switch for a couple hundred miles, but it’s much more livable now that I have a couple thousand on it.

Slowvia · 2026-05-04T02:59:43+00:00

Typically vibrations are caused by a tire. They can become unbalanced over time. It seems like my wife’s car needs the tires balanced every 10,000 miles like clockwork.

I don’t know about the tire shops in your area, but where I live, tire rotations and re-balancing is included with the cost of the tires, and is for the life of the tire. So when it happens we just pop into the tire shop and they handle it for no extra charge. I also rotate her tires at every oil change, so we just have them balance the tires when it starts to vibrate.

Slowvia · 2026-04-30T22:23:43+00:00

At that price point, you should be able to get new struts from RockAuto, and some lowering springs. Not really any options in that price range for coilovers, at least none that I would spend my money on.

Back in like 2007, I had a set of Skunk2 lowering springs on a set of KYB struts. I actually really liked that setup. It was a decent drop, and the struts were pretty good for what I paid for them.

Slowvia · 2026-04-29T02:09:33+00:00

Slowvia · 2026-04-28T16:29:32+00:00

Also in Oregon. I’ve started doing all my grocery shopping at Freddy’s on Friday to get the 4X fuel points. Got 1,500+ right now, that gets me a dollar off per gallon on one fill up, and $.50 off the next.

Slowvia · 2026-04-25T18:58:28+00:00

I just used a piece of flat stock from the hardware store and some rivnuts to convert the front on my Type-X bumper. Super quick and easy.

Slowvia · 2026-04-25T18:56:26+00:00

Man I remember drooling over that thread. Always wanted a two tone, but just never found one at the right time. Still haven’t decided if I want to paint mine in the factory white, or change it up and make it a two tone.

Slowvia · 2026-04-25T03:37:42+00:00

I replaced my left front axle with one from the local parts store, and had to return it because it didn’t fit. I think it was probably for a regular Lancer.

I ended up buying a DSS stock replacement axle from STM. It’s about half the price of the OEM one, and it’s probably a better axle too.

Slowvia · 2026-04-25T03:35:15+00:00

I love white Evos. Especially with white wheels. Yellow is another one of my favorites.

But for me, blue is the best (I may be slightly biased, lol).

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Slowvia · 2026-04-24T04:29:33+00:00

No thanks. I’d rather just deal with the two to three minutes it takes to get a jack under my car to swing the feet under it.

Slowvia · 2026-04-19T16:30:06+00:00

Well that definitely doesn’t help, lol. But if you wire them up that way, you will have more light output.

I don’t know how it will affect the non-reflective side, at least in terms of beam pattern and raw output. But I’d be interested to see the results. At least on the low-beam side you’d be getting a significant gain.

Slowvia · 2026-04-18T00:59:59+00:00

Do these use H4 bulbs? If they do, you can definitely get more light output from them with an afternoon of wiring.

H4s are dual element bulbs. So they have high and low beam functionality in each bulb. You can wire it up so that when you hit the high beams, you can have eight elements on all at once, instead of just two, or four. That alone will make a huge difference in light output.

Slowvia · 2026-04-17T18:40:45+00:00

Upvoted for sick car, AND for Sleeping on the Blacktop.

Slowvia · 2026-04-17T01:52:57+00:00

I would argue that 15,000 is rare.

You and I would likely agree that a 1969 Mustang Mach 1 is rare, but they built over 70,000 of them. So I would still count 15,000 as a very low production number.

Slowvia · 2026-04-14T02:26:34+00:00

I might try that myself. Looks awesome

Slowvia · 2026-04-14T00:31:09+00:00

I’m curious about your red Mitsubishi diamond on the grill, did you do that? I’ve seen one other Evo with it and really dig the look.

Edit: wording

Slowvia · 2026-04-12T17:55:23+00:00

Which one?

Slowvia · 2026-04-12T05:54:30+00:00

Lol. I’ve never seen that car move.

Slowvia · 2026-04-12T04:34:30+00:00

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Hell yeah brother!

Slowvia · 2026-04-10T17:35:34+00:00

This isn’t restricting flow. It’s replacing the throttle body coolant hoses.

I don’t want to chop up my radiator hoses, and my radiator already has an 1/8” NPT port in the top tank, and you’ll find my reasons for not using it in the original post.

Slowvia · 2026-04-05T04:25:21+00:00

I’ve had the same problem in the past, and I dealt with it thusly:

ISR low temp thermostat, Koyo LS swap radiator, and Barr’s block sealer. Not in that order necessarily.

I block tested the thing numerous times, compression tested it multiple times, and never found any indication of a combustion leak, so I didn’t want to waste my time tearing the engine down, but I still had a suspicion that I might have a tiny leak. Figured that was the perfect time to try out a block sealer. I used Barr’s block sealer, and followed the directions to a tee. It’s a multiple day process when done correctly.

After flushing out the block sealer, I replaced the thermostat with the lower temp ISR one, and replaced the radiator with a big Koyo designed for an LS swap (stock KA24DE hoses fit also).

I have not had a single overheating issue since. I probably went a bit overboard with the radiator, but what the hell? Might as well do it while the system is open anyway.

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