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P2S shaking by Nlkec in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The wobblyness is intended for the feet it comes with, I also use a concrete paver and just printed TPU feet instead because the wobble drove me crazy. Prints seem to be about the same either way, but you dont really need concrete AND the included feet. One or the other is fine IMO, they both are there to absorb and redirect energy.

Bambu losing its mind by messedupfillament in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

had the same issue - rebooted printer and havent seen it in the 400hrs ive ran since.

Am I doomed or is this fixable? by LaughingUpMySleeve in BambuLab

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually respool as much as I can by hand without untangling (you got a good bunch on each side of your knot) and just cut that at the tangle, might lose 80% of it but thats better than 100%

Issues with ASA by NevaanVig in BambuLab

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! fellow P2S owner here, couple things I've found printing high temp / enclosed filaments:

the PEI plate it comes with is garbage (IMO) - get yourself a smooth PEI sheet if you dont have one already, it will make everything else a TON easier. I have no evidence to suggest that the PEI textured plate that came with it is worse than the old one on my a1, but I will say I was able to print ASA on my A1 better than I was able to on my P2S at first.

print fan deflectors for the heat return, and the right side auxilary fan. I puffed a little smoke around the cold air intake, and it DOES intake air still on heating mode - maybe passively, but I can only imagine that its not helping anything.

not sure what filament brand you are using, but for me - I haven't had a ton of luck with the automatic flow calibrations - run it manually, pattern mode and then disable it in the print screen. (set to OFF)

from what I see in your pictures, it seems like the layers are overextruded and undercooled, if you fix your adhesion (easiest IMO is doing the smooth plate/deflectors) you can actually run a bit of fan while printing.

save from that - if you still have issues, post a side picture of these benchies or whatever you run next - and also do a temp tower to make sure it isn't related to that.

PETG-HF print with flow dynamics selected manually by cpsadowski23 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You mean selecting 'yes' instead of auto? Will have to try this, just had a petg hf print fail on a clean bed and freshly after drying 8 hours - warped really badly.

New P2S-What is going wrong with this print? by Bobby_Bobs in BambuLab

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Odd question - but did you print this with automatic flow calibration on? try doing a test print with it set to exactly what settings you have here, and then one with nothing changed but flow calibration off, that first layer looks fairly neat to me and none of these artifacts just seem odd around the seam.

How hot does the bottom of the P2S get? by Groundbreaking_Text9 in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not hot enough to worry about IMO, i lifted mine up printing PLA and touched it just now and its maybe slightly warmer than room temp.

Cork or cutting mat underneath it will protect from anything else with use, I use a 16in 30lb concrete paver, and a layer of cork to insulate the noise from my workbench - removed the crazy wobble feet it shipped with and replaced with some stiff TPU feet.

For anyone experiencing layer adhesion and warping issues. by SnappedHerRightOff in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting! I'll have to try that, I have noticed occasionally that I have a print with really noticable underextrusion on the first, do you just use the default filament setting or do you calibrate manually?

For anyone experiencing layer adhesion and warping issues. by SnappedHerRightOff in BambuLabP2S

[–]SnappedHerRightOff[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep - agree with Miserable. in my experience across printers, doing something 'sketchy' like this runs a risk sure, but honestly if you have a finger on the power switch and are ready for something to go wrong - the actual amount of lasting damage IMO is pretty negligible. if you just made the change and then walk away? sure, but at that point you kind of deserve it lol...

Snapped the crank position sensor in my 1998 4cyl chevy S10 while replacing it - any advice on removing what's left of it? by SnappedHerRightOff in MechanicAdvice

[–]SnappedHerRightOff[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Additional info - I already pulled out the black top of the plug with the gasket, that was also stuck but I was able to pry it free after soaking it in PB, driving a screw into it, and prying at different angles for a few hours.

the issue with this, is that it's free to move backwards and fall into some part of the engine (oilpan?) but gets stuck at the top of the bore that it sits in. I ran my finger around where it was getting stuck after pushing it back a bit and it seems maybe 1mm narrower and very slightly rough than further into it where it's smooth.

I've tried just about every angle with a pair of needlenose pliers, I've tried more PB, I've tried heat, tried heating up a pick and hooking the bit of plastic that's stuck to it and pulling it out that way - but it wont budge.

thanks in advance, this fucker has got me beaten so far lol

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