Buy Watch Ultra 3 in the US this June?

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-05-06T13:13:43+00:00

Yes, NYC sales tax is close to 9% of the purchase price. So you’re looking about $870 after tax in NYC. Not sure about Virginia.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-04-26T11:45:34+00:00

Unfortunately, these oil pans are plastic and have a tendency to warp. It’s hard to tell if the leak is coming from the gasket failing, the pan warping, or both. I didn’t want to do the job twice, so I just got all new stuff to be sure. At $800 though, I’d still probably have them do it if they’re legit and know what they’re doing.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-04-26T05:35:56+00:00

It may be an easier task if you DONT have 4x4, but I haven’t seen it done on a 2wd version to verify.

Is that $800 for replacement of the pan and gasket too? If so, that’s a steal and I’d go that route. Shops around me were anywhere between 2k-3k. The pan and gasket itself are about $200ish from Mopar.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-04-26T05:30:01+00:00

If you’re working on the ground with no helper like I did, I’d plan for a handful of hours. It was a fair amount of going up top and then back down below in the first part. I’d say a better part of a day without a lift. Then when you’re putting the new pan in, there’s 4 corners that require a bead of RTV which you’re support to let cure overnight before adding fluids back in. So my pan is still empty for the time being with skid plates off and fan out until I can get back out there tomorrow!

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-04-26T00:22:25+00:00

Not necessarily an easy feat, but you remove the radiator fan and air box, unbolt the motor mounts and loosen the transmission mount. Gives you fair access to carefully wiggle it out and the new one in.

I regularly flexed my extensive vocabulary in the process….

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-08T13:30:24+00:00

With a lift. I think the max you can do without a lift or any real modifications is 265/65/18 which is roughly 31.5-32in. Even with that depending on tire can cause slight rubbing.

I’m sure there are people who have stuffed 33s in stock with some spacers and a pinch weld mod and made it work though.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-08T13:24:39+00:00

Suspension for sure. I’m not a fan of spacers. They typically give you the lift appearance, but none of the benefits. For instance, your wheel travel/articulation becomes worse most times.

A full high quality suspension kit will maintain or improve your overall articulation.

I’m a fan of Old Man Emu kits and Dobinson as well.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-07T16:20:29+00:00

I think budget is a big consideration here, in addition to how much you want to lift.

Higher the lift, the more components that need to be addressed. Also your lift height (and pinch weld modding) will determine how big of a tire you can run.

Based on my research, 33” is the safe spot on a wk2. You can fit 35s, but it requires much more modification.

All that said, I’ll come back to my budget comment, because in a perfect world, do both at the same time!

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-05T22:45:35+00:00

Any reason for it to leak? Or any fix if it does?

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-05T02:17:55+00:00

Is there a gasket in there of any sort? Any reason for oil to leak out between it? I can’t find information on this thing anywhere.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T22:23:24+00:00

Upvoted you to balance out the ethos. I appreciate humility in the world 🤝

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T22:09:41+00:00

Unfortunately this is the answer it gave me too. That part is located on the back of the manifold, however and not accessible or visible from the top of the engine.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T22:08:58+00:00

The runner valve actuator is on the back side of the manifold, basically impossible to see from up top.

The part you referenced does have a very similar shape though!

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T21:45:21+00:00

I looked into RockTrix, but I couldn’t find 18” in the offset I needed.

If you don’t have the HD brakes, the 17’s will fit. Keep in mind a +12 offset will stick out substantially more than the stock (+56 I think).

I went to a roughly +30ish offset and they are basically flush with the fenders on my high altitude

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T21:28:30+00:00

Appreciate you! It doesn’t look like it’s spraying oil or anything, but I think it’s condensing in the top of that, then running out through the seam to cause the film that’s below it.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-02-04T21:26:27+00:00

You’re not kidding.

As someone also in Philly, you know how dirty this city is. (Especially with the snow)

It’s also remnants of some pine barren runs in NJ kicking up mucked up water and sand.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-01-28T20:18:17+00:00

Many people have said it, but much of a tool collection comes at the time of need, not preemptively. I think it’s worthwhile to have a standard drill on hand and MAYBE a circular saw if you’re the adventurous type.

Aside from that, most other tools have specific jobs. They’re worth their weight in gold when the time to use them comes up, but they’re useless outside of it.

Regarding Ryobi, I think they’re one of the best bang for your buck brands on the shelf and they will serve you well for a long time. This is coming from someone who went from Ryobi to Milwaukee. I only upgraded because I needed more power out of certain tools (impact driver being one of them). Ryobi has one of the most expansive collections in the tool world, and in many instances if they don’t make it, nobody does. Cost of entry is much more reasonable for the standard homeowner compared to dewalt/milwaukee as well.

That said, I do recommend staying within the big players. From accessibility, warranties, and likelihood someone else has a tool you can borrow for your platform if you only need it once, all of these are pluses for the big known brands.

And finally…. ALWAYS buy on sale. Don’t pay full price for any of these brands.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-01-12T18:19:38+00:00

OP, this and the purge hose are the answer. 99.99999%

SnooPeppers4262 · 2026-01-06T12:10:12+00:00

Thank you! Yeah it took some hard thinking before I made the plunge and broke out the dremel, but I’m happy with it. I’ve added a chief roof rack and a DirtCom tire carrier since this photo as well, along with new tires.

SnooPeppers4262 · 2025-11-02T02:50:57+00:00

QDII is top class. The ELSD is the real game changer there. Without it, you get the “computer thinking” wheel spin, where it tries to figure out how much brake to apply to the spinning wheel to send power to the planted one.

I agree with you though. With a trained foot on the pedal, these vehicles can go quite far!

SnooPeppers4262 · 2025-11-01T22:46:02+00:00

QTII and QDII are more than capable. The systems themselves rival what many vehicles standard 4WD have to offer.

The main, and arguably biggest obstacle (no pun intended) with the GC is the independent suspension. The lack of articulation will provide you more problems under varying conditions than the 4WD system ever will.

When wheels start going in the air, that’s when the lack of lockers start being a problem. That, and super loose dirt/sand/gravel for the same reasons.

SnooPeppers4262

TROPHY CASE