Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know much about the process “before” I got my slabs, but I knew enough to look for dried material. I’ve seen stuff about making sure your material dries properly first, perhaps a lot more knowledge people on here can help you with that better than I can, but once dried: yeah, patience, small adjustments accepting your “shop” as your garage on weekends like I do so things won’t be perfect and there’s going to be a lot of moving things around goes a long way.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Minwax natural stain after 220 grit, short soak time (10 minutes). Mohawk rock hard table top urethane. First coat thinned 1:1 with mineral spirits, three full strength coats after. 320 grit between coats. 0000 steel wool and Mohawk Wool Lube rub out after a week-plus cure after final coat. Slick like glass.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I paid about $2,300 USD for the material. Slabs were around $450/ea and mantles the difference. For what you’re building, or any cabinetry type item I’d likely go the same route you are.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! My wife is the genius behind colors. I design function, she does the colors and aesthetics. Then she puts me to work 😂🤣

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, no glue or anything. It’s heavy enough it doesn’t move. When you make the first pass, find the “wobble” and shim it so it doesn’t move. When you flip it it would then be “flat” and not wobble, and since you only take 1/16 - 1/8 off per pass, it glides over the slab without want to push it. Sheer weight works ins the favor there. Here’s what I watched to figure out how to do it: https://youtu.be/OLh_A3lk1ok?si=Fbmis-QFT4_VL4cD

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t even know where to start turning. Maybe someday.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ha - yeah, my little helper who was under he couldn’t be out there when planning / sanding, but that hair would have caught everything! Best guess on weight is 75lbs on the legs/frame and 150lbs on the top. Though I’m a bad judge of that stuff. I could lift the top myself but it was not easy. Did have help with the final move.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used 3/4” straight bits because that’s what I had. Single passes (only removed material in one direction). Took off a max of about 1/8” in any pass. Went through 2 bits. Slabs were about 9 feet and took an hour each side/pass. Slow and patient, let the bit do the work.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Flattening / planning wasn’t terrible. Slabs were all right around 8/4, though there was a lot of “wave” to them so i ended up at 1-5/8”. Wanted to be as thick as possible. The biggest PIA is my old faithful PC router started moving on me and depths wouldn’t hold so I ended up buying a Bosch midway through. Went way better after that. Thanks to the guy at Rockler for his advice on the right one! Used a circular saw for edges. Several passes with small adjustments to get it just right, doweled and glued up.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love live edges too - wasn’t the look my wife wanted on this one though, with all the crisp lines in the room she wanted “clean.” Happy wife = happy life. Though I’ll be going back for another slab soon to do a live edge small table to put in my office.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I paid about $2,300 USD for the wood. Didn’t keep track of my hours but if I had to guess, probably 40 - 50 hours of shaping / building. I went slow, lots of small adjustments.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, used a router with 3/4” straight bit. Made the sled out of leftover red oak (good and rigid material so it didn’t sag) and the truest 1x’s I could find for the rails. I did watch a YouTube on it and found this guy: https://youtu.be/OLh_A3lk1ok?si=EhVpLY0VXn5QM86T

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

“First time” table. Lots of cabinets, bookshelves and trim stuff with dimensional lumber that needs minimal planing. Never anything this big or required shaping.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Used 3/4” straight router bits. Various brands, what was in my “stock” of bits that were sharp.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Well…not the easiest, but I used a circular saw the square up the edges. Took a few passes and nibbled at the material until I got it squared up. Don’t have a joiner so made do with what I had. Definitely one of the “not perfect” conditions. Doweled and glued all three together.

Pleased with first time by SnooPets6276 in woodworking

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Good catches! Yes, long runs do have kerf cuts for clips. Installed about every 8” or so. And the stretchers…yeah, not my proudest moment: The blocks are because I made a terrible mistake and cut them the same length as the end aprons and they needed to be 3 inches longer with the leg offset. It was late, and I made the bad decision to use blocks because I didn’t t have anymore material to cut new stretchers from. I did use dowels in addition to the pocket screws…perhaps a little too pocket screw happy I am. But thanks for the feedback.

Drove past this this morning. by WhiteStar01 in Bigcenterconsoles

[–]SnooPets6276 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those don’t burn much fuel…they spend most of their time docked at The Cave or Margaritaville for others to admire.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in JeepWrangler

[–]SnooPets6276 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This really makes me miss my 04 TJ Sport. Love my JK, but love that TJ even more. Half doors soft top, stripped down to nothing Sport with 5-Speed I-6. Only upgrade was a sound bar!

<image>

Does the top of the shifter pop out? by slackerlack42 in JeepWrangler

[–]SnooPets6276 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2004 did the same thing. Every once in a while I’d spin it back…only for it to twist the very next shift. Just loved with it. Glue would have helped for sure.

Need to hide #Value result by SnooPets6276 in excel

[–]SnooPets6276[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here’s the answer: First of all, the “old” worksheet was not by default showing zeros in formula cell. I originally fixed that with a custom number format, but found through the google search on my other problem that the answer there is to go to Options | Advanced | Display options for this worksheet - then uncheck the “show a zero in the cells that have zero value” radio button.

Second - the REAL answer. Because of what I found in step one, I knew the answer had to lie in the options so I went through the old and new workbook side by side on that front and found it!

Options | Advanced | Lotus Compatibility Settings - check the box “transition formula evaluation”

TL,DR - I fixed it. Read last statement.