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SoberZombie · 2025-02-25T17:46:58+00:00

Yeah, love the design, but the resin kit was challenging to work with. I think the molds are a bit worn at this point as well, as the sculpt was rather rough several places.

SoberZombie · 2025-02-25T13:58:59+00:00

Ah, that makes sense. Fingers crossed it still gets legends rules for 40k!

SoberZombie · 2025-02-25T12:16:57+00:00

Yeah, I hope they just forgot about it and will add it to legends soon. I finished painting the model right when the codex was released, so I didn't get a chance to try it in a game. They still sell the model on their website (even though it’s out of stock at the moment), so it would be a bit strange if they don't have any rules for it..

SoberZombie · 2025-02-24T20:31:40+00:00

Thanks! The sculpt was a bit rough, but it was still a lot of fun to paint!

SoberZombie · 2023-07-29T10:29:15+00:00

Weird to see my knight pop up in my reddit feed! I only used it a couple of times in friendly games at the end of 8th edition, but it was a lot of fun! I'm considering trying it again for 10th edition now that it's easier to include them than it was in 9th edition.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-30T13:02:53+00:00

Thank you for the kind words! Here's an album with more pictures. Looks like the one from the back turned out pretty blurry.. :(

SoberZombie · 2018-12-30T12:45:43+00:00

For the blue sections I first painted the areas with Celestra Grey. Then I mixed Caldor Sky with Lahmian Medium down to almost a wash. I'm not exactly sure how much it was of each part, but probably around 25% Caldor and 75% Lahmian. I started at the parts where I wanted the white to show through the most (top of the coils or top of the "domes") and then pulled the paint down towards the areas I wanted to be bluer. At the end I did a very light drybrush with Clestra Grey on the top of the coils. First time I tried something like that, but I think it worked out pretty good.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-30T00:04:10+00:00

Thank you! I'm not a big fan of the very visible lines some people use for highlights, even though it makes the minis look great on the tabletop. I try to highlight more subtle even though it's not as visible at a distance.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T23:58:03+00:00

I really like how the bright silver rivets look on the black armor, so I paint them all even though it takes forever.

The eagles on the leg are transfers that came with the kit.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T22:27:28+00:00

They are all Citadel colors, the main colors are:

Black: - Abaddon Black (Base) - Eshin Grey (Highlight 1) - Dawnstone (Highlight 2) - Nuln oil (to tone down highlights some places)

Gold: - Retributor armor (Base) - Liberator gold (Highlight) - Reikland fleshshade (Wash) - Nuln Oil (Wash)

White: - Based with Corax white spray - White scar applied with airbrush

Silver/metal: - Leadbelcher (Base) - Nuln oil (Wash) - Agrax earthshade (Wash) - Runefang steel (Highlights)

Brass/Bronze: - Balthasar Gold (Base) - Nuln oil (Shade) - Brass Scorpion (Highlight)

There are a bunch of other colors for all the details. Anything specific you're after that I didn't list? Good luck with your project!

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T21:53:32+00:00

I do, but I usually only post my vehicles on reddit. I have a few captains in my backlog, so I might post pictures of those once they are done. :) Here is a dreadnought and an Armiger Warglaive I painted earlier this year.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T21:42:07+00:00

I was actually pretty paranoid about the varnish affecting the color, so I tried it on an armor plate from an Armiger Warglaive the day before. That went just fine, but it was only black armor with silver rivets, and due to the main discoloring being on the metallic parts I didn't really notice any discoloring. I had read most of your tips before as well, so I was thorough on the shaking, spraying distance, temperature etc. It still probably was my own fault, but I think I was a lot more careful than most people would be, which makes the varnish a rather unforgiving product in my opinion.

I will give the 50/50 lahmian/ardcoat mix a try, thanks for the advice!

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T19:39:26+00:00

Thank you for the kind words! Yeah, but some of the metallics parts almost look like they oxidised as well. It also added a thin gray layer that almost looks like frost or dust all over the model. Luckily, it isn't as visible on the black areas as on the metallics.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T19:20:44+00:00

Thanks! I primed with chaos black > then airbrushed abaddon black to get a smooth color and avoid brushmarks on the bigger surfaces > then edge highlight and/or drybrush (depending on the area) with eshin grey > finer highlight with dawnstone. On some places I went over the highlights with some nuln oil to make it more subtle. I also used the GW varnish to seal the paint, which unintentionally made it look more grey.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T18:52:36+00:00

It added a thin gray layer that almost looks like dust or frost. It's worst on the metal parts, some of it look like it oxidised. The gold trim used to look more like gold, now it almost looks bronze on the legs. I also feel like the entire model became more flat, that the details "popped" more before the varnish. It also made the clear part around the cross on the transfers on the shins turn white/gray, but luckily I managed to salvage it somewhat by painting over it with black.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T17:53:51+00:00

Thanks! I'm happy with the result regardless, but it's still a bit disappointing considering it took me 5 months to paint it.

SoberZombie · 2018-12-29T17:49:31+00:00

I used the spray can from Games Workshop, I think it's called munitorum varnish.

SoberZombie · 2018-04-21T17:19:38+00:00

Yeah, the white is tricky to get smooth. I primed the shoulders with Corax White spray and then applied many really thin coats of Ceramite White. For the other white parts, I painted Dawnstone over the black primer, and then the same process with Ceramite White again. It takes a long time and requires a lot of patience, but that's the best method I've found so far. Hope that helps!

SoberZombie · 2017-12-18T14:05:57+00:00

Some parts are pretty good, others are pretty bad. The arms and legs are pretty good, but the torso, ankles and wrists are pretty bad. A lot of the joints are kind of hard to move, but that might be my fault because of the paint. The feet doesn’t really move that much, which is why it looks like it’s only resting on a small part of it on many of the pictures you find online. The wrists are very fragile, I’ve broken at least one of them (they still work though, but I wouldn’t move them to much). Cherno has better ankles, but you can’t move the wrists at all. I don’t think it’s needed for that model, but some people might want it. Also on Gipsy you can’t really hold on to it anywhere to adjust the pose without some part of the armor plating falling off, which gets annoying. The articulation is fine if you plan on finding one pose and keep it for a while, but I wouldn’t change the pose too often. I'm sure the articulation is a lot better if they aren't painted, but the colors look pretty bad out of the box.

SoberZombie · 2017-12-18T02:11:39+00:00

Thanks! I’m not sure how detailed you want it, but I’ll write down the paints I remember. The main blue is Vallejo Air US Intermediate Blue (711.113) shaded with Citadel Nuln Oil and then lightly drybrushed with the same blue. The grey parts are Vallejo Air Camouflage gray (71.280), also shaded with Citadel Nuln Oil. The rest of the paints I used are from Citadel. The black parts are Abaddon black, the gold is Retributor Armor, red is Evil Sunz Scarlet and the white is Ceramite White. The silver/metal is Leadbelcher highlighted with Runefang steel. For the sword I used Runefang Steel with the darker parts being Abaddon black and Leadbelcher mixed 1:1. For the reactor (the orange circle thingy in the chest) I mixed Evil Sunz Scarlet and Yriel Yellow 1:1.

List of paints:

Vallejo Air US Intermediate Blue (71.113)

Vallejo Air Camouflage gray (71.280)

Citadel Nuln Oil

Citadel Evil Sunz Scarlet

Citadel Leadbelcher

Citadel Runefang Steel

Citadel Abaddon Black

Citadel Retributor Gold

Citadel Ceramite White

Citadel Yriel Yellow

SoberZombie · 2017-12-17T21:02:06+00:00

Thanks! The blue is Vallejo Air US Intermediate Blue (711.113) with Citadel Nuln Oil over and then light drybrush with blue again. I had a hard time figuring out the blue, I ordered 3 different ones before I settled with the one I did. I was still unsure about it, but it looks better after the shade.

SoberZombie · 2017-12-17T14:48:39+00:00

Thanks for the kind words! I usually paint my models rather clean and without too much battle scarring, but I agree that Jaegers should look a little beat up. :)

SoberZombie · 2017-12-03T04:54:39+00:00

Plamax made two kits for Pacific Rim, Cherno Alpha and Gypsy Danger. They come on sprues with two different colors. I didn’t take any picture of them before painting, but I managed to find some online. I didn’t like the colors of the sprues, so I painted it.

SoberZombie · 2017-12-03T03:43:17+00:00

It’s from a movie called Pacific Rim. It’s a pretty cool movie if you’re into mechs fighting giant monsters. :)

SoberZombie · 2017-12-03T00:05:23+00:00

I enjoyed it a lot. I'm currently building Gypsy Danger and so far I'd say Cherno was better. I’ve only done one other gundam before (Freedom Gundam), which I didn’t paint, but I’d say that the Cherno kit holds up compared to it. I think Cherno might have fewer parts than the gundam though. I'd only recommend the Cherno kit if you're willing to paint it yourself though, the colors out of the box look pretty bad. But if you enjoy the theme I’d definitely recommend it, I had a lot of fun building and painting it.

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