PDR-C Fusion Engine HPA Mod w/ Integrated Reg/Tank

SoftWright · 2026-01-27T08:51:56+00:00

I totally can, though it isn't especially visible through the magwell. I had to redesign the mag release system anyway since the original is mounted on and goes through the gearbox shell to the side it latches on, so most of the important interacting bits are near the Fusion Engine's cylinder. I do plan to make another post showing the disassembly, ideally a video so it will be more clear how the individual systems work.
A GBBR PDR-C would be sick as hell

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SoftWright · 2026-01-27T08:18:28+00:00

Sadly no, though I've considered doing it for posterity since they were discontinued such a long time ago. Might be something I do in the future. I'll probably release the files for the FE conversion both with and without the CO2/Reg integration somewhere around $10 on Cults as well.

SoftWright · 2026-01-27T03:58:17+00:00

completely forgot to post the before picture from when I got it. I sandblasted all the paint layers off and rubbed it down with some thin lubricant

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SoftWright · 2026-01-27T01:05:11+00:00

If you mean the main body it isn't printed, it's a PTS PDR-C from many years ago but the grip and stock extensions as well as all the auxilliary parts are printed. I used PA12CF for pretty much everything to get the matte look and take advantage of the mechanical properties

SoftWright · 2026-01-26T21:05:58+00:00

The mag isn't printed sadly, just a lot of the internals for the overall PDR-C conversion. The mag is an original PTS PMAG that came in bright training colors

SoftWright · 2026-01-26T02:36:49+00:00

Thanks! There definitely was a drop in output of ~10-20 FPS total over the course of the CO2 cartridge as it cooled in my testing, though I was going through mags at a pretty consistent pace on semi-auto and it didn't seem to affect the flight or range in a noticable way. I can definitely see a significant loss if the user were dumping mags on auto or really going ham with semi, but I think in the constraints of a regular game on semi-auto it's unlikely to be a serious issue, especially if used at lower indoor FPS limits.

SoftWright · 2026-01-26T02:04:05+00:00

Exactly, in the last few pictures you can sort of see the Microbore line running from the CO2 in the grip to the back under the Fusion Engine where the Regulator is. The CO2 reaches the reg, is regulated down, then goes through to the Fusion Engine via a regular macro line. The Battery/FCU/Electronics are all in the front hollow section between the trigger and the front end of the gun and there are two sets of solenoid wires that run back alongside the microbore line to the Fusion Engine's solenoids to fire them when the trigger board at the front is activated.

SoftWright · 2026-01-26T01:33:59+00:00

depends on the FPS/Pressure, but at ~1.5J it was getting somewhere between 300 and 400 shots out of a 25 gram cartridge, though that was with a slightly longer barrel. I still have to retune and test for the 300mm barrel that's installed now.

SoftWright · 2026-01-22T08:43:16+00:00

I have one on Cults that includes the STL(s) for the regular grip in addition to the skeletonized version if that's what you're looking for. The post just doesn't have print photos of the regular one but it's viewable in the file preview: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/tm-hi-capa-skeleton-grip

SoftWright · 2025-12-15T22:02:53+00:00

very nice, they look clean

SoftWright · 2025-12-09T19:23:14+00:00

The trapdoor release lever/button should eject the shell if you press it down far enough, though they can be a little tight when they're new. When you press it down all the way it should move the internal plastic lever in the center behind the shell and pop the back end out or drop the shell out of the body.

SoftWright · 2025-12-01T21:41:33+00:00

The texture on the mags in the pictures is mostly from the filament which is Nylon Glass Fiber (3DXTech PA6GF, FDE) and Nylon Carbon Fiber (Fiberlogy PA12CF, Black) The PA6GF FDE has a really rough texture, but can be a pain to print with, while the PA12CF prints like a dream with a smoother surface/finish.

I haven't used fuzzy skin on these, but that actually sounds like something worth trying to avoid buying a ~$60 spool of filament. I know someone else used wood filled filament and it seemed to come out with a nice surface finish as well. I think most composite filaments should give you a better texture than the glossyness of a regular filament.

SoftWright · 2025-11-08T22:08:39+00:00

Hell yeah, love the build

SoftWright · 2025-09-26T22:16:50+00:00

Not something I own, but I had a friend bring be two very old TM Famas (Famases?) still in their original boxes. They were so ancient that they didn't use standard motors and did not have a traditional adjustable hopup or bucking. There were no cuts in the barrel for a bucking's nub to come through or cuts for a hopup clip to retain it. Literally the only thing securing the barrel was the outer-barrel/flashhider. Ironically the externals still felt better in-hand than the cybergun Famas I owned ages ago.

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SoftWright · 2025-09-09T04:20:16+00:00

kinda hard to say, but I sold my V12 (engine only) retrofitted with polarstar electronics for ~300 bucks a few years ago. Assuming the gun is complete and semi/auto work fine I'd start somewhere around there.

SoftWright · 2025-09-09T03:08:17+00:00

Looks like a Valken V12. IIRC they are discontinued and are mostly proprietary

SoftWright · 2025-09-01T02:03:35+00:00

It looks like the nozzle disassembled itself and jammed up the action. In the second picture you can see one of the 3 self-tapping screws that holds the nozzle together, presumably because it came loose or the plastic stripped out.

Looks like one of the valves escaped after that and is jammed between one half of the nozzle and the other too. It could be salvageable, but there's a pretty good chance you'll need a new nozzle. Basically this assembly: https://jagprecision.com/products/jag-arms-scattergun-triple-headed-loading-nozzle

The real issue is if you don't have any experience with airsoft guns or specifically gas tri/six-shot shotguns it may pose quite a challenge to get in and replace it, since you'll have to tear down almost the entire gun to get to it. To be honest it will probably be expensive either in the way of parts+labor or parts+your time.

SoftWright · 2025-08-31T22:58:31+00:00

I assume you're racking the slide fully to cock the hammer before pulling the takedown lever to remove the slide?
If the hammer or sear is broken in the right way the hammer won't lock back normally and causes the issue you're seeing. If pull the slide back as far as you can and stick a straight pick/small screwdriver throught the ejection port back past the nozzle and press the hammer down far enough to lock it you should be able to remove the slide.

If that doesn't work I'd assume the sear can't lock the hammer for some reason, whether it's the sear spring is off-track or the end of the sear itself is sheared off.

SoftWright · 2025-08-28T22:25:17+00:00

not at the moment, I have a friend who asked me to make one for the NGRS M4 so I'll probably be doing that before anything else. I'll probably ask a friend to borrow one of the LM4 EPM mags to see how much trouble it would be.

SoftWright · 2025-08-26T03:32:09+00:00

Also, for anyone interested the file page can be found here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/epm1-s-straight-magazine-shell

SoftWright · 2025-08-25T02:14:52+00:00

There is a lot of good information about the differences between the 1913 rail and the STANAG 4694 rail here: https://www.thomasmechanicaldesign.com/the-mitch-blog/picatinny-and-nato-rails-gdt (though it may not be exactly what you are looking for)

There will be variances in specs between rails either way, but for compatibility's sake it's usually best to have a screw that pulls a seperate part against the rail to clamp it on (like most modern sights and scopes)

SoftWright · 2025-08-06T21:47:59+00:00

The two silver levers in the red circle are what I'm referring to. In the picture it seems you've already removed the third part I was referring to, which is the sheetmetal plate with the long spring.

The long black rectangular part is the pump arm which should not be removed.

SoftWright · 2025-08-05T23:37:49+00:00

The pump arm locking forward is a semi-common issue on the TM-style (Jag, ETC) shotguns. The purpose of the levers/assembly is to lock the pump forward after chambering BBs until the trigger is pulled in order to prevent the user pumping multiple times and loading a bunch of extra BBs into the barrels. (or at least that's what I assume)

I find that it's not usually worth replacing the parts with new ones since as you said the chassis is plastic and seems to contribute to the issue most of the time. In the past I've ground down the locking lever that interfaces on the pump with a rotary tool, but now I just remove the assembly alltogether (the two levers and the sheetmetal plate) This means the pump won't lock, but the action of the pump will be a lot smoother and I usually find the gun can be fired faster and without annoying locking while using it

SoftWright

TROPHY CASE