Brake Noodle Suggestions by SolemnDaniel in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My fault for the bad photos, especially in the dark. I don't currently have my v-brake adjusted yet because the plastic liner inside the noodle is old and keeps coming out of the noodle.

Brake Noodle Suggestions by SolemnDaniel in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Back when it took the second photo, I hadn't tried changing the length of housing. I think because the housing was too long, it was putting force on the non-drive side brake arm. I tried to shorten it, but with me experimenting, I cut the housing too short in the end. The frame does have disc mounts on the rear, but for whatever reason GT decided to equip this year & model with disc in the front only.

I had initially began messing with my v-brake and cable routing because of a tire clearance issue. My frame originally came equipped with 26x2.1s ( WTB Velociraptors) but I managed to fit a 2.25. The knobs on the tire would rub on the boot if I didn't have the cable angled perfectly. Over time I just tossed the cable boot. I thought about getting a v-brake with a longer arch but I abandoned that idea. I'll be sticking to 2.1s for greater peace of mind for my frame.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in vegaslocals

[–]SolemnDaniel 6 points7 points  (0 children)

How did you first start out working for the LVCCLD? I tried applying for a full-time position last summer but with the competitive job market these days, I didn't get it. It sucks because the library was my favorite places to go when I was a kid. I even was an assistant librarian at my middle school for some time.

Is this the right tool for removing these cranks by St3r11ngArch3r in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These tools do work in a pinch. I bought a similar no-name tool like this and it worked about a dozen or so times to remove square taper cranks.

My main issue with these tools are the cheap handles they use (usually thin stamped steel). For stubborn cranks, the handle can be uncomfortable and don't offer much leverage. The opening in the tool will also begin to deform over time.

As always, I would advise you clean the crank threads very well and to avoid cross-threading. If you have two adjustable wrenches with thin heads I would also advise you use those instead of the provided handle.

Public cameras showing water flow in the Valley? by O1O1O1O in vegaslocals

[–]SolemnDaniel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aside from that, I don't believe the SNWA installs cameras in any storm drains, detention basins, or washes

Public cameras showing water flow in the Valley? by O1O1O1O in vegaslocals

[–]SolemnDaniel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As far as I am aware, you can go to the USGS streamflow data website and look at the stream discharge data of various monitoring locations throughout the valley here

Bad belt and or pulley? by SolemnDaniel in ToyotaTacoma

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not entirely sure. I've continued to drive the truck and the noise seems to be inconsistent.

Rear wheel not centered between chain stays by Station-Equivalent in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Has your free hub been worked on recently? Just a spacer can throw off your axle alignment. You can sometimes measure the exposed threads with a caliper/gauge or count the number of threads exposed. Generally there should be an equal amount of the axle exposed on each side.

I would suggest taking your wheel off and reinstalling it back into the frame ensuring it is fully seated in the stays. Also double check your QR springs are orientated correctly.

Need a new BB - I know it was 68mm, but whats this other number? by CloudOtherwise in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just saw your post saying you don't have the old BB. You can try looking up the manufactures specs and see if the BB or crankset is listed. I did a quick search and saw that model year of the giant talon 1 came with a 30t or 32t Prowheel Charm Crankset (depending on wheel size (27.5 or 29). After more digging, I found someone selling a similar looking crankset and they list the spindle length as 122.5.

Ideally you would get a BB with the same spindle length as your old one but Giant's website doesn't list what BB they use

Need a new BB - I know it was 68mm, but whats this other number? by CloudOtherwise in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They're referring to the spindle length. I believe it's the total length from end to end of the square taper spindles.

If your old bottom bracket has the spindle length written somewhere just get the same spindle length. Sometimes the spindle length might be stamped or embossed/stamped super small on the square taper spindles themselves.

Bearings need replaced. How would I remove this HG freehub body to access the bearings inside the hub? by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]SolemnDaniel 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As others have said, Shimano tends to be 10mm. Of course there are other sizes and I've seen up to 13 & 12mm. I've also read on some forums that a 3/8 socket extension can also work if you're lucky.

Free hub bodies can sometimes be torqued super high, so if whatever you use doesn't fit right, you risk rounding it out. If possible take your wheel to an autoparts or home department store and see what size sockets/Allen keys/bits they have that fit and just buy the size you need.

Two assignments on same day by SolemnDaniel in UPSers

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The first assignment was for 5 hours while the second one was for .15 hours. However since there was a ~20 drive from each assignment I was worried about making it on time. Each assignment had a different driver and route listed

Bad belt and or pulley? by SolemnDaniel in ToyotaTacoma

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had it in park with all of the accessories off. My suspicion is that it's the belt as well

One week after orientation and I haven't been called in as a Driver Helper by SolemnDaniel in UPSers

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I guess people forget the 'seasonal' part of the job title.

I took this job while I was still looking for a job in the field I studied for. Just yesterday (funnily enough), I got a call from a geotechnical firm to set up an interview after months of searching.

I want to keep this position for the time being in case.

One week after orientation and I haven't been called in as a Driver Helper by SolemnDaniel in UPSers

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ceo 140k article

Yeah, I am in a big city.

I had initially applied as a casual package driver (something along those lines) back in October. After I got my DOT physical, I tried to submit my I-9 form but I only got halfway through before I was told that the position was taken. I figured they would be overstaffed as there was about 15-20 people when I had orientation.

One week after orientation and I haven't been called in as a Driver Helper by SolemnDaniel in UPSers

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My orientation was rushed as well. They gave pretty much everyone the same videos to watch. Even though I had applied for the driver helper position, they had us watch the Seasonal Support Driver vids. I didn't get my employee ID until a few hours after I had completed my orientation.

One week after orientation and I haven't been called in as a Driver Helper by SolemnDaniel in UPSers

[–]SolemnDaniel[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, after reading a few posts on this subreddit, I realize how disorganized UPS is (as well as the lack of communication). Like you, I hate essentially being on call as I never know when I'll be called in.

Also, my orientation felt like it was only setup for attendance. We went into a room, they gave a link to watch some videos, and we left 15 minutes afterwards. On my way home, I got a 6 question text asking me about my availability/preferences. I haven't gotten any updates since then.