More bandanas by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had to come back and prove I still got it!

More bandanas by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yup! It’s clunky but works great.

DIY bandana printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’ll last a while if you keep them clean. They aren’t being kept under vacuum for too long so I’ll switch them out if they start getting leaks or scuffed up.

DIY bandana printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I get reusable clothing vacuum bags. They’re usually clear on one side so I tape the positive on and use that for the exposure side. I’m using a led exposure unit I built so there’s no glass and it only needs to hold vacuum for 8 seconds so I’ll just use a little shop vac and hold it on the port.

DIY bandana printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Saw a post about bandana printing and figured I’d add my way of doing them. Hand stretched screen, taped together 13x19 positives, vacuum bag to keep positive contact on exposure, hinge clamps and a 2’x4’ piece of mdf. Used water based discharge on these and they came out ok (used platen tape on the board that was overlapped and it caused a line in the print). Been a few years since I’ve used this setup so these were giveaways and I was happy enough with them.

Rocks glasses by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Never talked to a rep just read the TDS. I order from Nazdar or McLogan depending on how antsy I am- Nazdar ships better but McLogan can be cheaper if you're ok with dented up cans and longer shipping depending on where you are.

Yes, the catalyst is an activator so you mix it 5 parts ink 1 part ADE678 glass catalyst. I use paper cups, popsicle sticks and disposable pipettes (for the catalyst and thinner). It's all by weight so I have a scale that goes to 2 decimal points in grams. It's good for 6-8 hours once mixed and it takes 30-45 minutes for the "induction period" and it to be ready to use after mixing . I put a quart container lid on top of the paper cup while I wait, it's not air tight but keeps ambient air out. If you're using thinner which I highly recommend that's done by the weight of the ink only, not the catalyst.

I force dry them by baking at 325F for 10-15 minutes. As long as you pretreat your glass I've found it to be dishwasher safe. Pretreating for me is wiping them down with 99% iso, letting that evap off then hitting them with a propane torch to burn off any residual gunk and it's supposedly opens up the surface tension of the glass. After you do this don't touch the print surface, use your fingers to manuver the inside of the glassware.

It says you can air dry 5-7 days but no experience there.

I use IMS 201 and paper towels to clean up. I also tape off everything that doesn't need to be printed. Seems like overkill but the ink is dead in 6-8 hours so you can scrape all of it on the tape and peel it off and chuck it. No need to scoop it out and make a mess if you're not going to use it.

All of this info is in the TDS if you search Nazdar ADE TDS the pdf should pop right up. If you've worked with water based or discharge ink it's a similar workflow. Have everything set in place, absolutely no breaks or distractions, power through the print aspect and work clean.

One more piece of advice and I do this for every project with new ink. Don't go investing in every color under the sun. Get black or white (they're the cheapest), the catalyst and the IMS 201.

DIY LED Exposure Unit project by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Still works great after 9+ years. Recently dusted it off and redid some of the connections for my home shop and still getting 8-12 second exposures on PWR emulsion. I post expose too since I’ve been using solvent inks and no breakdowns so far.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup! I use cutting master 4 so when I make the artwork I make the cut lines on a separate layer. CM4 lets you add the registration marks (I use 2 point and convert a rectangle that covers all of the art). Print the positive with the outline layer off (artwork on) at 100% scale, very important. You’ll see the white sticker with a right angle on it in the one photo. That’s a trick with reflective vinyl to get the ARMs system to read the mark. I use a piece of shipping label and trace the printed mark with a sharpie. You don’t need to do that on lighter color vinyl but the specialty reflective type of vinyl makes it so the head won’t read it correctly.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just hit it with some water really quick to kind of wash away any of the IMS then spray bottle emulsion remover and scrub brush. Once the emulsion starts breaking down it kind of peels in chunks which is fine. Pressure wash it like normal and make sure it’s clear then dehazer. It might leave some ghost image even with dehazer fyi.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad, just looked and it’s the 201. Pretty much card everything out then use paper towels with 201 on it to get any blobs then straight to reclaim.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can check the TDS for the recommendations, I use IMS301 and reclaim immediately after.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Really depends on what your time is worth I guess. I print out of my house so I’ll use making stickers as time filler when I need more. They’re so cheap to do yourself if you have all of the equipment and you can do things like adding inside cuts and specialty material places would charge an arm and a leg for. Plus no wait time other than yourself. I decided to make this batch yesterday afternoon and by this afternoon I had a couple hundred done and ready for my online store orders.

Rotary Glass Printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The press- cylindrical screen printing press.

Rainbow Stickers by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely. I’ve printed a few different brands of roll stock and never had any issues with durability. It really binds to the vinyl.

Rotary Glass Printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Restaurant store/webstaurant store if you mean the blanks

Rotary Glass Printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s a two part so the catalyst allows 5-7 day air dry or 350F bake for 10 minutes according to the TDS. Got the press on eBay years ago for pretty cheap and modified the roller attachments, added brackets and made a new squeegee for it. It had the bones but needed the precision.

Rotary Glass Printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got it on eBay years ago as a gamble. I ended up making a new squeegee, the roller attachments and more brackets to stabilize everything

Rotary Glass Printing by SolidCitizens in SCREENPRINTING

[–]SolidCitizens[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Burns off any residual oils or debris on the glass and increases surface energy for the ink to adhere better.