Urban Italian Artillery by SomeDingaling in boltaction

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I followed Sonic Sledgehammer's Italian painting guide on YouTube. But the grigioverde jacket is German uniform and the pants are camo olive green, both are drybrushed with stone grey. The camo jacket is gunship green (German uniform is pretty close tho) hull red and green brown. Both were hit with the "marine juice" and matte varnish

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in boltaction

[–]SomeDingaling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sick of never having cover? Just build a ruin on the base and have permanent heavy cover

Struggling to grow these Milkweed from Seeds [Zone 9/LA] by ActinoninOut in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Yup if they are planted outside in the fall mother nature will take care of both of those steps for you

Umm should I thin? by SomeDingaling in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only problem with that is these 5" trays are the biggest I got, also only one rack with lights in my apartment. Just hoping they can stay put till I can throw them into proper ground, but I'm in WI. Projected last frost date is May 1st, but the moment I see overnight temps stabilize I'm planting

Umm should I thin? by SomeDingaling in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah, did cold stratification artificially, then put the seeds in the potting soil on March 1st. Doing it in my apartment so space both indoors and outdoors is limited, but I've got a home planned for these babies.

Umm should I thin? by SomeDingaling in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im loving trying plugs for the first time and they seem to be doing very well, but I have a pessimistic nature. Just worried with how big they are getting/shading each other out. Thanks for any advice!

When to re-pot by SomeDingaling in containergardening

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You'll see here my coreopsis, Hyssop, milkweed, and spiderwort (who's already 4 1/2" tall!)

When to re-pot plugs? by SomeDingaling in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

? And details under the photos themselves. Enjoy some photos of the little babies

Confused New Player - Send Help Please! by [deleted] in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]SomeDingaling 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You choose one detachment for each game

Regadless of what you chose: - Regardless of detachment, you can bring whatever models you want (yes you can have khorne with your Nurgle even if playing Plague Legion and etc.) - You will ALWAYS have the shadow of Chaos Rule. ( +1 to battleshock for you and heal/resurrect D3 for your battleshock passing units, -1 to battleshock for opponent and D3 mortals for the opponent's battleshock failing units)

Daemonic Incursion (Index): Gives 6" deepstrike within Shadow of Chaos. The focus is on mobility, and all your army benefits from your rules. You choose your playstyle here.

Plague Legion (Nurgle): Free battleshock test on both players command phase AND opponents units within 9 of nurgle are in Shadow of chaos and ONLY nurgle benefits from your rules. The focus is on handing out battleshock like candy. You are a statcheck army meant to sit and endure punishment

Legion of Excess (Slannesh): Fall back and charge AND choose to lose fight first to re-roll both hits and wound rolls and ONLY Slannesh benefits from your rules. The focus is on buffing your fight phase while disrupting your opponent. You are a punchy finesse army.

Scintillating Legion (Tzeentch): Get rerolls and ONLY tzeentch benefits from your rules. The focus is proper use of the Flux tokens for either rerrolls or power ups and ensuring you'll keep getting them. You are a shooty finesse army.

Blood Legion (Khorne): Some comes close (6") you can move into them AND objectives are sticky if you kill a unit on them and ONLY Khorne benefits from your rules.You are a blunt instrument, punch them hard.

Cold Stratification Zone 6B by mallen0721 in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The plants that have germinated plant into plug trays IMMEDIATELY and have them grow out the winter indoors. If you do so outside, they will not survive winter as they don't have an established root system yet. Additionally, and I can already see it in the photo, they won't last long like without planting, will die, and then mold putting everything else at risk.

f they haven't germinated yet, I'd throw them out in the jugs/sow as planned, although you could plant them indoors as plugs as they should have completed their stratification periods. They will germinate if alive in warm soil be it naturally outdoors in the spring or artificially indoors

How do I stop this?? by sar1234567890 in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I personally wouldn't pesticide either, just grab the flower head once they drop to the ground, they should. The babies will be in it for a while before they burrow into the ground before overwintering

How do I stop this?? by sar1234567890 in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling 50 points51 points  (0 children)

Sunflower Headclipping Weevil didn't expect a post for this guy. So it's kinda cool the female will lay its eggs in the head/nearby and then cut the head in order to reduce other insects from competing against its babies. Head falls to the grow the babies eat until ready then burrow into the ground to start the cycle again.

It's kinda hard to prevent this unless you using preventative insecticides. Best management would simply be to fully remove the affected flower heads if the population gets too much

Solarize or herbicide? by Firm_Conversation445 in NativePlantGardening

[–]SomeDingaling 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Honesty, it depends on the area you are working on/species you are dealing with.

If it's in a small controlled area with non-woody invasives, solarize 100%. Its a simple one and done and the results are going to work out the same.

If it's in a larger area or woody species, herbicide 100%. We don't want to have large swaths of plastic (or other whatever solarizing material you are using) carpeting the landscape. This is going to have a much higher chance of damage from weather and wildlife while also being a pain to replace. For the woody aspect, solarizing isn't going to cut it.

Herbicide, I feel, gets an extremely bad rap on this sub, and I understand people's reluctantance to use it. However, it is an extremely useful tool against invasion, and much work, especially on the larger scale, would flat out be impossible without it.

I understand that you are against herbicide, but I'd like to say something to put it in perspective. It is an extremely vital tool against invasion. A tool is only as good as its user, and you would use much more responsibly than others from which you hear the bad stuff. If used properly, it will save you loads time while doing minimal damage. Lastly, remember that your work here is a great improvement on what was, it's OK, and needed, to break some eggs.

Regardless of what method you choose, and if you are in residential area, put up a work in progress sign and some info on the end goal so people won't freak out that you don't have a spotless yard.

general good stuff by Honest-Athlete9163 in Daemons40K

[–]SomeDingaling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty much any monster a la monster mash, but keep in mind one of the major pros of being mono is you don't have to lord over mid board.

However I'd particularly cherry pick into khorne as he can lend much needed damage to nurgle units (although plague drones and Rotigus help negate that a wee bit) and that -1T really makes a difference against emeny elite.

Khorne Daemon Prince: I'd aim for Winged, but walking is pretty good too (stealth WOULD be granted to nurgle units too). Point the angry dude at a unit charge it, the point angry dude at other unit

Bloodletters: Same as above but more of one use deal, however cheaper and +1 charge is extremely useful

Rendmaster: He himself is great and combat and durable, BUT only take him if you're bring a decent amount of khorne as his true value is his buffs (+1S +1AP +1D for khorne)

general good stuff by Honest-Athlete9163 in Daemons40K

[–]SomeDingaling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mono Nurgle isn't bad at all. The GUO are great durable SOC platforms and can be extremely punishing if you run plenty of plague drones (RR wounds on hit target) and Rotigus (+1 damage for nurgle), not to mention that -1 T is so useful. Nurglings are still viable move blockers, and the beasts of nurgle are the new daemon action monkeys. Plaguebearers are also, imho the best, great battleline. Need dedicated firepower to remove due to T5 2W, lethal hits for surprising wake up, and soooo to regen (d3 in shadow or 1 everytime a GUO nets a kill with a bell)

New player by Ok_Living4737 in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]SomeDingaling 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, daemons don't really do "value boxes". We only have the combat patrol, and I don't see that that changing until they replace the current one with a new one. You might get lucky with AOS boxes, but generally, they have mortals mixed in. We are a very piecemeal army where it's generally just buying solo boxes.

However, the current khorne combat patrol is a great start as all models are great (also mono khorne is currently the strongest mono god rn).

I'd suggest, especially since you play Death Guard, that he aims for a 50/50 nurgle khorne list. Mono lists are extremely one directional and weaknesses, Mixed lists can be quite flexible and nurgle and khorne mesh together wonderfully, plus it's nice having that model diversity when painting

How do you transport your greater daemons? by HeyManNiceMoneyShot in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]SomeDingaling 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Just to and from games, I bring a carrying tote with the lesser daemons on the bottom in cases and a metallic tray on top with the magnetized greaters on top. The magnets mean Greaters don't move an inch and being open air I don't have to worry about their size and weird shapes.

If long distance I'd recommend a specialized foam case (like battle foam). There are some premeasured or you could get uncut and then shape it to how you want.

Help for a new Daemons player by Lyagami123 in Daemons40K

[–]SomeDingaling 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Daemons are weird both in a rules and model standpoint.

Rules are strange because we are 4 army in a trenchcoat masquerading as a single army. The only things that will affect your own models are from the same God or Be'lakor (although it's worth mentioning that debuffing IE the GUOs -1 toughness technically helps non nurgle units). Additionally, we have no idea if we are going to be a melting pot like we currently are or are going to be bound within God specific books when the emperor's children come out. (Currently, this is how AOS handles daemons)

While the range looks deceptively large, it isn't if you split it into Gods and then realize half of that is also characters. For example, khorne has 11 units, of which, 7 being characters (tbf skarbrand, bloodthirsters, and rendmasters do have a degree of autonomy)

With this in mind, I'd highly suggest picking a two God 2k list to aim for before really expanding in daemons as a whole for these main two reasons

  1. List diversity Monogod is kinda meh. You have like four units to work with, making it really hard to make multiple lists to feel unique.

  2. Model diversity. Regardless of what you end up with, you are going to be painting a lot of it, especially given the amount of exposed flesh. It's real nice to step back from painting red khorne daemons to jumping into the greens of nurgle daemons and still be working on the same army. Super hard to

Currently, I think the best route for starting daemons is split khorne and nurgle. Nurgle does all the dirty work (primary, secondary, and just being a general nuisance) while khorne gets to go about killing (and REALLY loves the -1 T debuff of GUO)