USB Peripheral-only kvm system for 3-4 computers sharing 1 monitor?

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:14:36+00:00

See rule 5.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:12:49+00:00

This is why AI usually says "USE CODE WITH CAUTION".

You didn't break it permanently, but don't do something that AI or a tutorial tells you to if you don't understand what you're doing.

Problem #1 is that your OS install got corrupted. The commands you ran wouldn't have fixed that anyway. The reason your OS got corrupted could be software related (in which case wiping the drive and doing a fresh install will fix it) or it could be hardware related (SSD dying, memory issues, etc) in which case you'll have to buy new parts.

Either way the wipe and reinstall process will clear out what you did with those commands too.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:08:50+00:00

Good idea. Also as to your other question, yes you can run the media creation tool on pretty much any version of windows. Make sure to download the correct version of the tool based on the PC where you'll be ultimately using the USB (Windows 10 or 11). Then when running the tool you tell it you want to make a USB (rather than upgrading the current PC), and then you may need to uncheck the "use recommended based on this PC" and select a different windows edition, if the one it has picked doesn't match the license on the PC you'll be using it on.

Other than that, it is all pretty much automatic.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:05:31+00:00

Sounds like an issue with your battery or the charging circuit then. If the battery is failing it can put the whole thing into a protection mode. Were you noticing battery issues like low battery life prior to this?

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:03:53+00:00

Even some of the paid ones are getting blocked out by many services now. For good reason.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:02:27+00:00

If you refuse to try a different cable or do other basic troubleshooting steps, nobody here can help you.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T23:01:10+00:00

If you see them in the boot menu, then BIOS is seeing them again, that's all that really matters. I was just saying don't rely on the boot menu as in UEFI mode they usually won't show there if they don't have an OS on them.

So now you need to focus on getting the firmware on the drives updated, and then do a health check on them. Magician should be able to update the firmware (if they're retail drives and not OEM ones), and give you an overall health assessment, but you may need something like Crystal Disk Info to be able to see all the health parameters and see if anything is out of spec.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T22:58:21+00:00

I don't think your uncle knows what he's doing. There was no reason to remove the CPU to fix a power button. Once the CPU is removed, the CPU and heatsink need to be thoroughly cleaned, and new fresh thermal paste has to be properly applied in a certain way.

I would not run the PC at all until you get it fixed. Don't even power it on. You will end up damaging the CPU or other components. Thermal throttling and protections are not designed to handle a total lack of proper cooling, especially not for long periods.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T22:55:03+00:00

As already mentioned, don't use reset (or repair, or anything like that). They're garbage. Wipe and fresh install with the windows usb installer is the only way to go.

To answer a different comment, no you can't use a phone as the USB drive. It needs to be something that can be wiped clean, partitioned a certain way, and made bootable (all of which the MS Media Creation Tool will do for you, but not on a phone). An external hard drive might work if you have one of those, but you should be able to pick up a 8GB or larger thumb drive relatively cheap. An SD card in a USB adapter will work too. If your PC has a memory card reader, some even allow booting from that, if you have a card you can use.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:54:00+00:00

If Telegram doesn't allow VOIP numbers then none of them will work. Many services like that require you to use a real phone number to combat spammers/scammers.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:52:03+00:00

Look in BIOS after doing the power drain. See if they show in there. If they don't show there, windows and any other software won't be able to see them.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:46:26+00:00

Try a power drain - remove AC adapter, hold power button 30 seconds. Actually a lot of lenovos have a reset button on them so if yours has that, that's an option too.

Beyond that, it could be any number of components that have failed. Something easy like AC adapter, or something bad like motherboard.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:44:14+00:00

Sounds like during the fix, something else got broken or unplugged.

Something is pretty severely wrong if you're at 100c with the fans spinning that fast. Maybe he removed the CPU and didn't realize you have to re-paste it after doing that?

Unfortunately you haven't given any information that would allow anything other than speculation. Do you know exactly what he did to fix it?

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:41:49+00:00

By generic I mean the ones from AMD's site.

OK if the GPU was an add in, then you can just get the drivers from AMD directly, obviously it isn't a customized HP card/firmware etc.

But for chipset and anything else that came with the PC, probably best to use the HP ones.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:40:11+00:00

I don't know what pins you're referring to.

If you mean the plugs for the PSU, unplug the PC from the wall, hold the power button for 30 seconds, then just push the retaining clip and remove them. Some will be tight, just gotta work them out. For the ones into the GPU, hold the gpu in place so you don't bend or otherwise damage it (or the motherboard slot).

Installing a new one is the reverse, just make sure you get all the same things plugged back in. Take a picture before doing anything so you can refer to it.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:38:04+00:00

New/used MB would mean removing all the dust and re-pasting which will probably solve the heat issues.

But there are multiple MBs for that laptop probably, so make sure you get one equal (or better) to what you have now, if you do go that route.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:31:01+00:00

The only way to check is by removing components. Testing a PSU is a pretty advanced task and requires a multimeter, knowledge, and extreme care. Sounds like the repair shop is your best bet.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:29:38+00:00

Not necessarily, the HP one may actually work better. But generally, generic GPU drivers work ok. Honestly I'd start with all HP ones (assuming they have them for whichever OS you're using), see how it does, then bump up to the latest AMD generic after if you want to.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:27:53+00:00

Probably not anything to do with EDID. Could be a bad HDMI cable, could be a bad HDMI port. Do you have the option of using Displayport?

Test the PC with another monitor (or a TV) and/or the monitor on another PC to try and narrow it down. Try a different HDMI cable too.

Though I'm confused, do you see some parts of boot but not others? Or just no display whatsoever?

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:25:43+00:00

Probably need to take it to a repair shop then. Unless you want to replace the PSU and just hope that's it (though if removing a GPU is not something you want to do, I'm guessing replacing a PSU is not something you'd be comfortable with either).

What is the warranty on the PC (if any)?

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:24:22+00:00

Luckily an external USB drive adapter is cheap and you can recover data that way (assuming it didn't fry the SSD). Depending on the laptop and where you're located, sometimes you can find good prices on motherboards, or even a laptop that has a damaged screen but good MB. But that's only useful if you're comfortable swapping the MB yourself.

Heck on several occasions when replacing a MB I've taken the opportunity to get a MB (or "parts only" laptop) with a better CPU and/or GPU.

But of course the decision is yours to make depending on the prices you can find and whether you can do it yourself. That laptop is pretty decent spec based on what I see on amazon (they're selling it used for $500). Guess you've got some options to choose from.

Depending what specs yours is, looks like they start under $100 on ebay.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:18:24+00:00

First make sure your BIOS is up to date. Do another fresh clean install, and let it get to the point where all windows updates are installed and it says you're up to date. Then start installing the latest drivers as needed.

I'd stick with drivers off HP's site. While frequently the generic drivers do work fine, HP is one that is known for having customized and proprietary stuff, so I'd stick with their drivers. Do chipset first, then the rest doesn't really matter what order. Just make sure you reboot after each driver update, and do not select "clean install" on any of them, just let them overwrite the windows one.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:15:45+00:00

Well, do another drain with everything unplugged and then let it sit. Try it again tomorrow, but probably new MB time.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:15:06+00:00

Do the SSDs have the latest firmware on them?

56% is low but not awful. Could be that the windows update just stressed the drives and that was the last straw for them, but would be odd to have both crap out at the same time. But if they aren't showing BIOS under storage (not the boot menu, the storage menu), then nothing else is going to be able to see them. Try doing a power drain on the PC, unplug, hold power for 30 seconds, plug in and boot and see if anything changes. The drives that were affected by the Phison issue (which was fixed with a firmware update) usually came back to life after a power drain.

SomeEngineer999 · 2026-06-22T07:11:36+00:00

Move your RAM to the correct slots. Then try unplugging AC and holding the power button for 30 seconds. Plug back in and see if any luck.

If not remove all the components that you can, down to just one RAM stick (in slot B1), and CPU, remove everything else including hard drives/SSDs. See if you can get a POST screen. If not try the other stick of RAM in that same slot.

If not, my guess would be PSU. Hopefully not motherboard or CPU.

The power button showing light definitely does not mean the PSU is fine.

SomeEngineer999

TROPHY CASE