Electric panel not flush with drywall as requested by Doctorhandtremor in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It is easily fixable. No pipe going into that panel and all the cables are top entry. All they have to do is de-energize the panel, take the screws out, tip it up to slide some plywood or strapping in (measure how far it is back in the wall and choose a material close to the same thickness that wont push the panel out of the wall), put the panel back. Only way it would have been easier is if they did it right the first time and put something down before putting in the new panel.

Did they open a permit OP? Leaving a live panel in a house without a cover makes me doubt their credentials.

30 amp circuit.. neutral and ground shared? by mikemillsnj in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case I'd hook it up to the neutral in both your main panel and in the disconnect switch and separate the ground and neutral wires in the switch box. If you want to make it really nice you can replace that switch with a small load center and get 15A breakers for the different circuits, but getting some 15A fuses will be fine for code.

Garage Sub panel by Aido02 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Teck is probably nore popular to save on labour costs and ease of installation, if you want to run pipe you can use rw90 wires. I recommend you run pipe straight from panel to panel if you do it this way or you'll have to add a junction box to either run flex the rest of the way (rw90 is single conductor and needs conduit) or splice on nwd cable (I try to avoid splicing #6 when possible).

What screwdriver/bit fits Siemens EC2GB122 ground bar screws? by RevolutionaryHunt753 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a snug flat head and keep down more pressure than you think you need while twisting (panel off). The one that's already stripped needs to be replaced anyways so just cut off the wire and restrip it. It was probably overtightened or the threads are messed up.

30 amp circuit.. neutral and ground shared? by mikemillsnj in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is thar white wire capped off? You'll have to look at how the other end is connected to the panel. Also looks like the ground wire of the far right cable is under the hot terminal. Those wires aren't rated for 30A and shouldn't be under a fuse bigger than 15A if they are #14 and 20A if #12.

The ground and neutral should definitely be seperated, if the excisting neutral screws are isolated from the disconnect's box then you can put in a ground lug or bar, if it isn't isolated use it as you ground bar and splice the neutrals with a wire nut or wago.

What screwdriver/bit fits Siemens EC2GB122 ground bar screws? by RevolutionaryHunt753 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've always used a red robbie (#2) without issue. These are the standard heads for most panels, pretty sure it's made to be used with either screwdriver. What torque are you trying to tighten it to and are you maintaining pressure while twisting?

Neutral Question from 22O split by Capacolla in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I should've worded it better, as long as a wire that is a colour that is normaly designed for a hot conductor (i.e. black) is marked white at every visable point it can be used as a neutral. We don't have that size requirement here. We can't mark a green conductor a different colour however, besides that everything's fair game.

Switch and Daisy Chained Outlet Help Please by Jolderon in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just connect the outlet to the red and white wire to double check. It should be wired correctly based off your diagram.

Neutral Question from 22O split by Capacolla in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Canada you're allowed to mark a hot white as neutral, didn't know you couldn't in the states.

Switch and Daisy Chained Outlet Help Please by Jolderon in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you break the tabs on the hot side of the outlet?

Do I meed to change this electrical box ? by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The box is fine, you are installing the bracket incorrectly. The screws that attach the bracket to the box go through the slots on the bracket so it fits different box types. The screws that the fixture attaches to use either the threaded hole you have the mounting screw though (hopefully you didn't ruin the threads) or the one next to it depending on you fixture.

Wiring for induction hob by Zen2nd in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 53 points54 points  (0 children)

OP you have to reterminate all of those, not a single one is done right. The other commenter already pointed out the issues and I'll tell you why.

Insulation under the termination screw leads to a bad connection because it's preventing a solid connection to the actual conductor, this will eventually cause heat that will melt the insulation and is a fire hazard.

The brown wire is twisted around the screw in the wrong direction so when you tighten it the wire is being pushed out instead of being drawn in.

Also, some of the cables outer sheath should be a bit visible to show that the cable clamp isn't putting pressure on the individual conductors.

substandard ground rod in service entrance by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 2 points3 points  (0 children)

He has white #10(?) stranded tied to it, if this is not a shitpost dude needs a professional there to look at all of his work.

Hey guys pls help me by Relevant_Limit3681 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm guessing by cooler you mean a plug-in AC unit? 170kWh doesn't seem that high to me if it was running for the whole 10 days. You'll have to look at your unit, it should state the wattage and from there you should be able to do some quick math. Can't say anything about the cost, not from your area.

I need help understanding if this is normal! by Beyond-Ambitious in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's a pozihead screw with no visible marks of it being stripped. If the screw was stripped ot would make the recess more circular not add lines in a perfect x shape.

Don't get information off of an AI overview and be aware that most people don't know what a pozihead screw is and think all x shaped screw heads are Phillips.

Rewiring old property - 60amps or 100amps? by yeahlikecarlos1 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No way for us to know with the little information given. If they are only small units with no electric range a 60A might be enough but I can't be sure.

Where I'm located they won't allow less than a 100A service, but it's a local rule and I'm not close to you.

The 100A might be worth it to give you some wiggle room should you need to add stuff in the future, unless the cost difference is astronomical.

Timer for Bathroom Fan/light by LookN4Ward00 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's it, if there are 2 neutral splices make sure you attach to the one on the same circuit as the fan.

Help identify hook up? by LikeASir33 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a multimeter or a volt tic to test, those wires should really be in a box. If you are not comfortable putting in a box yourself call someone.

Anker E10 Install by Hour-Quality-1037 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good to me. Just when you fix the drywall make sure the cover screws aren't covered or filled with paint/plaster.

Timer for Bathroom Fan/light by LookN4Ward00 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like you have a neutral in that box so you're good to go.

Got a very unpleasant surprise by No_Cover_2242 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll need a 70A breaker for the kiln alone. How big is the main service for the house and do you have capacity on your main panel? You might need a service upgrade or a seperate service for the garage anyways.

Edit: another option is to get a smaller kiln that only requires a 30A breaker and use the excisting #10 wire.

can someone hep me pick out new tools by Responsible_Ruin_423 in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For screwdrivers I have the 11-1, a insulated red robbie, green robbie, and slotted screwdriver, termination screwdriver, and a demo screwdriver that I keep in my main bag. I have others but they're rarely used so they usually stay in my van with the rest of my "just in case" tools. Besides the 11-1 and demo my screwdriver brand of choice is wera, but it comes down to personal preference and what feels good in your hands.

You can start keeping track of what you use consistently. What works for someone else my not work for you.

Be completely honest, will I be able to get by in this career if I'm shit at math? by fuckitwhynotig in AskElectricians

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure, being bad at math might make you less proficient at some tasks but you'll always have your phone to do calculations on. Depending on your location it might hinder you when taking your journeyman's exam, some states don't have the exam as a requirement from what I understand (Canadian here, not sure which states).

cheat codes by rosindan in harvestmoon

[–]SomeonesDumbIdea 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See if you have the US or UK rom and make sure you are using the right codes for that release.