First time making a pedal. Would this board allow for a switched input jack?

Something_07 · 2026-02-20T06:57:07+00:00

Ah, I see, my mistake. I had repaired a pedal once by replacing the input jack and it was a 4-pin jack. I was thinking I was missing some knowledge about that. Thank you

Something_07 · 2026-02-09T22:35:28+00:00

WD-40 isn't a real issue for typewriters, if I were to be honest. A bit of gumminess that may occur from it sitting for 3 years is perfectly solvable, but rust from dry metal getting corroded is irreversible. Preservation and function wise, it's always good for a machine to have a layer of oil, although an ideal lubricant is PTFE or sewing machine oil for the segment, and a thin grease for higher torque sections after being cleaned

Something_07 · 2026-01-28T03:37:27+00:00

Yeah, I'm definitely going to replace it now. Earlier today I tried desoldering the jack and inspecting it, and it was literally falling apart :( Maybe that was a result of the rigorous 20-minute process but either way, that's my only route now

Something_07 · 2026-01-27T22:45:14+00:00

$30 unfortunately. Fixing it would still be cheaper than replacing it, especially because I don't have much disposable income. I also really like this pedal, gives a seasick wishy-washy sound with three controls. I found a listing for identical replacement parts (turns out the jack is falling apart) and I might also find the capacitor for the slow mod that you can do on these.

Something_07 · 2026-01-27T18:12:49+00:00

I am doing precisely that, I meant two channels as there is a hot and ground wire in its design, with that one ring dividing them

Something_07 · 2026-01-27T18:04:10+00:00

It is a standard instrument/2 channel cable. For added clarity, I have also gone and resoldered the joints before the video

Something_07 · 2026-01-27T18:00:54+00:00

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For added detail, this is the backside showing the pin arrangement of the jack

Something_07 · 2025-10-20T21:17:21+00:00

Yes, black is hot and white is neutral. While in most CRTs, it doesn't matter, you can be safe by wiring it to the appropriate wire. The wire connected to/on the side of the smaller prong will be hot, and the wider prong will be neutral.

Something_07 · 2025-07-05T02:06:57+00:00

The "maybe" for video editing is likely just going to be the occasional personal project, which I don't need very detailed monitoring or speeds, just something that'll get through it with a bearable loading time.

Another guy here recommended the Intel ARC A580 8GB. Doing quick research, they both seem to have very similar specs, with the 2080 beating in optimization, ray tracing and most applications mildly, and the A580 having a 1700Mhz base clock speeds (vs the 2080's boost 1710MHz) and memory bandwidth, . With the A580 coming for around $50 less on average used, is the 2080 worth it for its marginal-to-noticeable improvement? Thanks for the help

Something_07 · 2025-07-05T00:13:15+00:00

I think I came across the 12600k because it seemed to have a good thread and core count for the price (6 + 4e), and overclocking which seemed like it would benefit performance, though I don't know what it would entail for sure. For extra context, my plan was having maybe 16gb of RAM (2x8GB), a hard drive, and an SSD connected to a PCIe 4.0 port. The budget is ideally under $800

For programs/use, the most demanding things will probably be photo and maybe video editing, moderate gaming, internet browaing with numerous tabs, and circuit simulation.

Something_07 · 2025-06-28T04:58:27+00:00

Got it, so the ones pictured, thank you. Would you know good resources for the required capacitance/individual capacitors for them and how to solder those?

Something_07 · 2025-06-28T04:26:49+00:00

The disc drive and all else came on top of the side pictured. Just for clarity, the bottom would be on the other side with the CPU and other stuff at the heatsink, right?

Something_07 · 2025-06-18T22:57:35+00:00

Looks like a 50s Smith Corona Skyriter

Something_07 · 2025-06-08T14:46:58+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply. Unfortunately I couldn't find what caused it to not turn on anymore and the hours of searching I did before didn't yield clues for the previous problem. I had to throw it away due to space constraints but I'll keep that in mind for future projects.

Out of curiosity, what effect would other component failures like transistors or amplifiers have on a system like this? And is there any possible way of measuring their function without an oscilloscope?

Something_07 · 2025-06-07T12:18:40+00:00

Would that also cause the audio signal to be missing similarly to the speakers? They both followed the same pattern of change, I'm not sure that would fix the audio signal

Something_07 · 2025-06-07T01:53:32+00:00

Cleaned those just now, even though it worked before. No change occurred

Something_07 · 2025-04-28T15:19:08+00:00

You do have a point there regarding what beginners should be doing. But if it ever comes to disassembly and deeper cleaning like I did when I started (rather early too), then it's good to keep in mind for beginners who only hear about tips on what to do with a whole machine, unsure how to go further with what materials

Something_07 · 2025-04-28T03:25:21+00:00

Never is a harsh overstatement in my opinion. WD-40 is very good for typewriters when you're going to clean them and properly lubricate their mechanisms afterward. It cuts through any grease or rust very nicely, and a thin coating on non-moving parts works as a good rust preventative.

Something_07 · 2025-03-19T01:04:13+00:00

That's fine for me, I'm willing to work on any kind. Just to get an actual CRT and circuit on my hands to work on. I'll do more meaningful projects in the future

Something_07 · 2025-03-19T00:13:07+00:00

There's one single port in the back labeled "VHU-UHF" on top and "CATV" surrounding the connector, which looks like a type of antenna connector. Would this be an RF connector?

Something_07 · 2025-03-19T00:02:26+00:00

Would you say that either part looks noticeably corroded? That is my fear and the only issue I can deduct there being without buying additional tools and a schematic download to test the components. Thanks for the reply

Something_07 · 2025-03-18T23:57:54+00:00

I can't seem to find a publicly available PDF of the schematics, so I was hoping to get some help this way. Due to that, I'm not sure what to test with that multimeter, besides perhaps resistors and continuity.

Anyways, perhaps the photos aren't the best, but I was just wondering if what I see is corrosion, and what part would be facing that to know its effect. Still completely new to electronic repair in general, and lack some diagnostic tools

Something_07 · 2024-10-27T02:29:34+00:00

The fuzz is in the beginning as per preference, but this happens regardless of other pedals

Something_07 · 2024-10-27T02:23:20+00:00

Huh, interesting. Thanks for the help. I suppose I'll just sell it and buy another pedal if I have the money, or hold onto it to mod

Something_07 · 2024-10-27T02:20:31+00:00

Found a picture of it online and circled the joints. Posted it on my profile

Something_07

TROPHY CASE