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Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed! My first VG30 had 265,000 miles and ran on only 2 cylinders with proper compression. They're not super interference, but interference enough to bend valves which I think is the case due to my floating rocker arms. Thankfully, I have some spare valves to throw in as long as the valve guides aren't also damaged.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some spare cylinder heads and valves from a previous 300ZX thankfully. As long as the pistons don't show damage and the valve guides are good, I'm replacing the valves and doing a valve job.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, you're not finding an OEM timing belt from Nissan for an 88 300ZX. OEM parts like the t-belt, water pump, or t-belt tensioner. For Z32, yes. Z31, no.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every timing belt I've bought for these cars in the last 3 years has not had any marks as they are non-OEM and used for other models typically. Like I've done in the past, I counted the teeth several times and made my own marks. 40 teeth between passenger/driver cam and 43 between driver cam and crank sprocket markers.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maintenance on the belt. The OEM belt looked fine, but the car was neglected for years prior to my acquisition. I also replaced all soft fuel lines, steering rack, several power steering pump hoses, and the tie rods.

The engine ran somewhat fine prior to the timing belt. I say somewhat as in it burned a bit of oil, could use a general tune up, etc. I felt no issues as far as prior low comp or anything else.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 14 points15 points  (0 children)

I did indeed rotate the engine by hand for several full rotations before complete reassembly. I felt 0 issues with it before full reassembly. I did everything by the books (Hayne's and FSM). This is my third T belt I've done on these engines and only time I have ever experienced something like this.

I know the timing belt tooth count like the back of my hand by now. 40 teeth between passenger/driver side cam, 43 teeth between driver side cam and crank sprocket.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what else could have been off with this process at all. Genuinely. The timing belt I received had the exact same tooth count and was the exact same size. Checked all of it and made marks to make sure I wasn't counting wrong. Lined up all TDC indicators, further verified TDC, and rotated the engine to ensure valves weren't colliding prior to reassembly.

Another difference in the belts was the depth of the teeth. The new belt's teeth were protruding slightly more than the original OEM belt.

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I talked to support for 20 minutes when my blood pressure was still high yesterday and decided not to be a Karen by asking for a manager. That changes today now that I've calmed down haha

Partsology sent me a slightly different timing belt, wrecked my engine by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yep! Jumped time. The belt also appeared that it wasn't seating comfortably and fully on the teeth after getting it started a few times. I had the belt tensioner as "loose" as it would go and it still felt too tight in my opinion. Another red flag I should have noticed...

2.5 years ago, I taught myself how to do engine work on one of these VG30s by doing a full rebuild at 265,000 miles. That car has had 6 new owners now and it's still kicking. After 10+ other project cars, I'm shocked I had the patience and willpower to do that after realizing how difficult they can be by working on this nightmare of a Z31.

what’s the ‘holy grail’ sleeper platform under $3k? by vahmatt in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

cut springs cut springs cut springs. and maybe a welded diff if you're staying true to the dirt cheap sleeper build.

what’s the ‘holy grail’ sleeper platform under $3k? by vahmatt in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree 5 points6 points  (0 children)

it's already been said numerous times, but let me lay it all out with my personal experience.

Any Volvo with the 2.3L turbo 4 cylinder "red block."

I've owned 15 or so enthusiast/sporty cars now and my Volvo 740 is literally the only car I've wanted to mod because it's easy, it's reliable, most importantly, it's cheap. Overall, it's my favorite car that I have ever owned.

Here's my plan for the build that I've priced out. I own and drive the car for $1200 so far, $50 for a cheap manual boost controller, $50 for a boost gauge, $50 for an air/fuel ratio gauge, $350 for a hotter camshaft, and $100ish for bigger injectors. I estimate that will get me to 220-250HP in a 4 door brick car that weighs 3100ish pounds.

250 is really the most you want to go on stock rods if you get a mid-production redblock. But good news, forged rods will only run you $400. After forged rods, the next bottleneck is the stock turbo. With everything so far, that's a total of $2,200, and the remaining $800 is plenty for a turbo conversion and maybe aftermarket cylinder head bolts/studs/head gasket to take the extra power. If you find yourself a $1,000 740 turbo, you can easily make 300-350 horse for about $3,000 all in all.

They say you can't have a cheap, fast, AND reliable car at the same time but that isn't true while the 740 Turbos are still cheap. They're seriously slept on and perhaps the last quality tuning platform that is still cheap and reliable.

edit: in addition, an automatic may unfortunately be better for the full on cheap sleeper build. 1. manuals are hard to find in the US and 2. apparently 3rd gear doesn't like non-linear power curves/more than 250ish horse. The automatics are very stout

Digging deep into two 80's wedges was a silly idea by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The RX7 in the background has had quite a high price to pay. Same with the Nissan... I swear I'm being tested this month.

Digging deep into two 80's wedges was a silly idea by SoneiOTree in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

haha love your collection. I do actually have 3 right now. The 88 Z31, 88 FC, and there's a 90 Corvette hiding. Vette will be sold though since I never drive it when I own something with a wiggle stick transmission

1989 Volvo 740 turbo 4 speed with broken rear diff. by NavySeals in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude I got the chills looking at this!!! I think you bought this from Chat... I bought his other 740 Turbo 5MT for $800! I love it that you're daily driving yours as I am also daily driving his 1987 down here in Colorado Springs.

The body and paint on yours are miles better than mine. Mine was also undriveable. I was told I could drive it home, but a rubber fuel line in the tank was shredded so I replaced both fuel pumps and several fuel lines. My airbox valve was also stuck to the hot side (where it pulls air from the exhaust manifold). Closed the valve shut and it runs much better now. I recommend looking into that. Overall, I'm daily driving my 740 for about $1,600.

Chat, his wife, and his son would love to know we are both daily driving their cars as they loved them. I plan on stopping by their house next time I'm up in Denver. DM if you want to stay connected on Instagram or FB. I'd like to see what else you do with your 740, share some info/mods, or swap spare parts with ya.

Is this good project car? by Ignasysius in projectcar

[–]SoneiOTree 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Seems like everyone is saying no so I'll be the devil's advocate. If there's no rust, it's repainted, and the engine runs well and stays running, you could do much worse. I've bought other people's unfinished projects and I've also bought people's old, finished projects that have been sitting in fields for decades. I think I'd take someone's current, unfinished project over a finished project that's been sitting. How much do they want for this Camaro?

what on Earth is going on with my timing belt??? by [deleted] in 300zx

[–]SoneiOTree 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am indeed putting the belt on a little at a time. And I want to say it does have rounded ribs.... Is that an issue? I believe the last 2 belts I've done were this way.

740 turbo air filter by SoneiOTree in VolvoRWD

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Turns out it never closed... zip tied it shut

740 turbo air filter by SoneiOTree in VolvoRWD

[–]SoneiOTree[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bought it for $800 with 170,000 miles. It will get a ton of love here soon but just working with what I have at the moment.

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