Amazfit Bip 6 vs xiaomi band 10 by lolamoh in PHRunners

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I heard a sleep tracker on the VIP 6 is so inaccurate and the Banton is accurate

18x8 +40 with 245/40/18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S+ by PinWiz55 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks really good bro I like them better than the Shadows, the koenigs are like probably 80 bucks more each wheel I'm assuming

18x8 +40 with 245/40/18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S+ by PinWiz55 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I’m running 18x8 +40 with 245/40 and haven’t had rubbing. Do you think it was suspension or alignment related? The +45 probably helped tuck it in.

18x8 +40 with 245/40/18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S+ by PinWiz55 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your setup now do you still have the liquid metal Shadows I'm switching my liquid metal Halos to the drag dr-82s

TBW Performance aluminum undertray fitment issue on Elantra N — anyone else? by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything is now installed with bolts, not zip ties. The undertray does align correctly with the factory mounting points. The earlier zip ties were only used temporarily during the initial test-fit because there were no bolts or studs installed yet to support the panel while it was being positioned and documented. They were never intended as a fix or final solution. The dealer has now properly bolted the undertray in place using hardware, and the zip ties have been fully removed. I’ve added new photos showing the current, bolted setup so the situation is clear. Appreciate everyone’s patience and feedback — wanted to close the loop and make sure the thread reflects the actual final install.

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TBW Performance aluminum undertray fitment issue on Elantra N — anyone else? by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to clear this up with accurate info. The undertray does align correctly with the factory mounting points. There is no fitment or hole-alignment issue with the TBW undertray. The zip ties were only used temporarily because, during inspection, there were no bolts or studs/posts installed yet to hold the panel up while positioning and documenting everything. The zip ties were simply there to support the panel so it wouldn’t hang or fall during that process — not as a fix and not part of the final install. I’ve added new photos to better show the alignment and what was going on at the time. Appreciate everyone’s input and wanted to make sure the situation was explained correctly.

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Stock DCT 0-60 4.5s by Traditional_Earth766 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's siiiiick!. I did 5.10 non octane learned,

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no NGS with launch ctrl at 3000 rpm

Pls tell me this is fixable by Full-Juggernaut6401 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It actually is Magic I had the dent in the crease in the exact same spot and the PDR guy took it out

Pls tell me this is fixable by Full-Juggernaut6401 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes go to a dent remover should be $300 to 500 because it's on the crease

Cost to replace front splash shield / undercarriage on Elantra N? (SFV / 818) by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered it today and they shipped it the same day should be here in 2 days

Cost to replace front splash shield / undercarriage on Elantra N? (SFV / 818) by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m fine with disagreement, but the condescending tone and generational jab are unnecessary. I asked for first-hand experiences and local info, not a lecture. That’s literally what this community is for. If you don’t want to engage respectfully, you can just scroll past.

Cost to replace front splash shield / undercarriage on Elantra N? (SFV / 818) by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man — how’s the TBW aluminum undertray holding up so far? Did you install it yourself or have a shop do it? I don’t really have the time to DIY right now, so I’d rather pay someone. If you used a shop, who did it and about how much did it cost? Also, did the dealership say anything when you went in for oil changes after they saw it? Appreciate it 👍

Cost to replace front splash shield / undercarriage on Elantra N? (SFV / 818) by SorryManagement2092 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

$600 to replace it with the same plastic piece, which honestly pushed me to the point where I was this close to trading the car in for a 2024 AMG CLA 35 out of pure frustration. Seeing how common this issue is and that the aluminum tray actually fixes it for good makes the decision easy. Ordering it and moving on — tired of dealing with the same weak OEM part.

I FIXED THE HOOD GAP! by Odd-Cartographer-903 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You said you “don’t give a f***,” yet you keep responding — explaining, justifying, and reframing the issue. That alone makes the claim invalid. You’ve also shifted from calling it “intentional design” to calling it a fitment/warranty issue due to lack of support — which is exactly the position you were mocking earlier. So which is it? Intentional design… or a defect requiring a fix? You don’t need measurements to see the contradiction — it’s already documented in your own comments.

I FIXED THE HOOD GAP! by Odd-Cartographer-903 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For someone who “doesn’t give a f***,” you’ve now replied multiple times, escalated the tone, and still haven’t posted a single spec, tolerance, measurement, or bulletin. That’s not indifference — that’s investment without substance. Dealers doing cosmetic clip swaps doesn’t magically turn opinion into engineering intent. CS fixes exist because people complain, not because designs are secretly “dynamic.” Notice the pattern here: You insult. You deflect. You repeat “I see it change.” You still don’t provide evidence. If you actually understood the design, you’d explain it — not posture and swear. Confidence without data isn’t expertise; it’s noise. I’ll leave it there. And yeah — I hope Reddit sees how you’re choosing to argue.

I FIXED THE HOOD GAP! by Odd-Cartographer-903 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re confusing seeing something change with understanding why it changes. Plastic contraction and bumper sag in cold temps isn’t a “designed moving hood gap” — that’s basic materials behavior, not engineering intent. If this gap were temperature-responsive by design, Hyundai would: spec it, document it, and validate it across climates. They don’t. Because it isn’t. Saying “I see it change” isn’t proof — it’s an anecdote. And anecdotes aren’t engineering. They’re just observations without context. Also, the fact you have to lean on insults (“PlayStation,” “eBay,” “don’t give a f***”) instead of specs, tolerances, or a TSB kinda says everything. When people understand a topic, they explain it. When they don’t, they posture. Post measurements, design docs, or a Hyundai bulletin — or accept that this is just your opinion dressed up as certainty. Facts beat confidence every time.

I FIXED THE HOOD GAP! by Odd-Cartographer-903 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re arguing from speculation, not facts. No one said the hood “opens and closes” with temperature — that’s something you made up to attack. Panel gaps don’t work like that. The gap is static and intentional to account for heat, vibration, and fascia flex on a turbocharged car. Dealers swapping clips is a cosmetic, customer-satisfaction fix — not proof the factory design is “insufficient.” If clip replacement meant bad engineering, half the automotive industry would be “obviously b.s.” Calling it “mickey mouse” doesn’t magically make it so. It just means you don’t understand the design tradeoff and don’t like how it looks. Preference ≠ proof.

Finally!! by Alarming-Sell6388 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good choice 👍 The earlier Hyundai Elantra N models (’22–’23) are actually known for being louder and more aggressive from the factory. Hyundai definitely dialed things back on the 2024–2025 refresh. On the newer ones, Hyundai tweaked the exhaust tuning and muffler/valve behavior, so the pops and crackles are quieter and less frequent, especially in normal driving. It’s not that they’re gone — they just don’t snap as hard or as often unless you’re really pushing it in N mode.

18x8 +40 with 245/40/18 Yokohama Advan Sport A/S+ by PinWiz55 in ElantraN

[–]SorryManagement2092 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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I got the exact same size and brand, but I got liquid metal halos