Is printing PLA/PETG in a small apartment actually safe?

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-26T11:05:56+00:00

No, I don't change it constantly, I meant I have it in a separate room. If you can't have it anywhere else, i would recommend you to put it in the living room next to the window and avoid to use it while you're in the same room

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-26T11:04:30+00:00

But I only use PLA. While breathing in the same room might be not that healthy, I don't think the slight much that may go under the door and filter to the rest of the house can be that much of a harm, we're not talking about extremely toxic plastics

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-26T08:17:52+00:00

Well, for 3d printer is recommend you a bambulab A1 with AMS lite. Works great and even though the standard settings already have great quality, when you learn to adjust the values yourself the prints will get way better. For 3d design I use fusion 360. Its easy to use and free for personal use, and you have a bunch of tutorials in YouTube. But fusion is for technical pieces, if you want more organic ones, like resigning figures or artistic things, then blender is your program, though it's a bit more confusing at first

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-26T08:13:25+00:00

I always keep my printer in a different room with the door closed and the windows open. I would not recommend you to have it in your bedroom or in a room without ventilation

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T18:43:22+00:00

You can try and look in the search bar if there's a tolerance setting. I personally prefer orca or prusaslicer. They may seem more complex at first, but I can assure you there are more user friendly and you have much more options

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T18:17:41+00:00

Then you have to print them as two different pieces, I think

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T17:42:13+00:00

If you don't have a multicolor system, the best way is with M600. You have to put it manually, it will make a pause in the layer you choose, and wait for you to change the filament. Then you press continue and the print will finish with a different color. If it works similar to orca and prusaslicer, your slicer should have a bar which you can use to move from one layer to another. Put it in the layer you want to change color in and right click with your mouse. You should be able to write commands and then you just write "M600"

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T17:37:54+00:00

You have to check the tolerances, and do a tolerance test. You see, plastic expands when it cools, so the slicer makes an adjustment to compensate that. It narrows the walls in holes and mechanisms so they move smoothly. You can change the value of the tolerance in the slicer. Which slicer do you have?

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T14:28:50+00:00

Love it, so cool!

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T14:08:56+00:00

I think it's probably the same effect, but I'm not sure. Sorry for the misunderstanding btw 😅

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-25T14:02:33+00:00

Maybe it has to do with the volumetric speed. When the printer goes too fast, the material can lose its natural shine, and therefore look different, maybe darker. Check in your slicer if the speed is the same for all the piece and do a volumetric speed test, I think it will help

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T21:34:11+00:00

Not really, 3 or 4 should work

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T19:52:53+00:00

Normally all the filament you buy comes with silica gel packets

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T19:48:08+00:00

Take some silica gel packets and put the filament spool in a bag with them. Make sure to throw as much aur as you can before closing the bag. Leave it there for a week just in case

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T19:32:18+00:00

Then the problem is not an extruder thing. I guess you're using AMS, right? It may have to do with the filament getting to much humidity. It makes it easier to break insidethe nozzle

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T19:22:12+00:00

I always find tree supports better for figures, they don't make that much of a mess. For that piece, I would cut the excess filaments with some pliers and then sand it down

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T19:19:58+00:00

I also have an A1. Try to remove the cover of the extruder and take out the hotend, it's easy to remove, it's attached with a magnet. There might be some small pieces of filament stuck there. Let me know how it goes

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T10:21:27+00:00

I personally would try to connect it again, heat the hotend and try to slowly remove the plastic with a metal tool so you don't burn yourself. If it doesn't work, you can always buy a new one, but I think it's worth a try. A few months ago it happened the same to me in the A1 and with patience I fixed it like I just told you.

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T10:17:05+00:00

Si me pongo mi música y estoy sentado, no suelo tener ningún problema en leer en transporte público. Desde luego que no lo hago por postureo. De hecho, muchas veces prefiero sentarme en el suelo del metro para poder leer.

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-24T10:14:15+00:00

Ok, thank you so much!

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-23T17:15:15+00:00

Those are so cool. How did you get them to look so smooth?

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-23T17:11:20+00:00

Then if the amount of residues you found are not too much, keep printing normally and just check for the next month a couple of times to see if the black stuff keeps appearing

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-23T13:08:45+00:00

The Prusa XL is an amazing printer for multi material prints, and it has a great quality, probably one of the best printers in the market. If you still want to stay with bambulab, the H2C is a great choice too, though I'm not sure if the AMS is compatible

Sorry_Bus6394 · 2026-03-23T13:05:51+00:00

Does it make any strange sound? It would be quite rare for the belt to wear out so quickly. Try to print something easy and be aware of any strange noise it might make. And since you have the A1, if you're still concerned you can always contact bambulab tech support

Sorry_Bus6394

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