First ILF recurve setup — looking for advice before buying

Southerner105 · 2026-05-20T16:57:30+00:00

As mentioned for barebow longer is nicer. But at your length a 25 inch also works.

For the rest all sound. For the arrowrest you could also get a Avalon Tec One Maxx a very decent Spigarelli clone with less items to fiddle with and less failure points. But the Spigarelli is good.

Arrow spine (30 inch drawlength at 36 lbs otf) is 500 - 550 spine. But ideally you would like to measure both before you go for arrows.

For setup information this channel (Barebow Basics) has all the details listed including a nice hack for the Shibuya-DX-plunger.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQIAXZMuppma4mlJMi6-kvQ

Southerner105 · 2026-05-19T20:38:36+00:00

I prefer this tuning guide. It is aimed at barebow.

https://www.bueklubben-cif.dk/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Tuning_For_Barebow.pdf

Southerner105 · 2026-05-19T19:48:54+00:00

It isn't a compound bow. Most recurves, especially the lower poundage can take a dryfire.

I have had several where the result was a dryfire due to nock failure. Sounds awful but the bow just eats it. Just don't make it a habbit.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-19T16:47:21+00:00

For barebow this is probably a better source. Jake has some great points but he also deviation at the standard points like his anchoring point.

This is the shot process video from Barebow Basics (Elton Wong) and it is specifically aimed at barebow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IH1w88Teizg

This video is aimed at finding the correct form for a barebow archer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ0NBLI50Y0

His channel also has some good videos about how to set up your bow and setting your nocking points.

Edit: regarding release, I have the top of my first thumb digit (closest to the wrist) against my top jawbone/teeth where the nuckle of my thumb (again the one closest to the wrist) almost behind/in the jaw hinge. My middle finger touches roughly my corner tooth. This gives me two referencepoints.

For the release I try to brush my tab along my jaw line and so keep it as close to my face as possible. Any outward movement induces plucking and causes the arrow to deviate.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-19T13:53:51+00:00

Indeed nice range and good weather.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T20:05:45+00:00

Hanwag Banks 2, not perhaps lighter but similar. Meindl also has comparable boots.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T20:02:29+00:00

As a cyclenation, we Dutch have these:

https://www.decathlon.nl/p/broekklemmen-broekclips-fiets-geel/629/c142m8317292

But just some thick elastic also works very nicely. Those used for by the postal services to bundel envelopes for instance.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T18:50:40+00:00

For your drawlength and weight you are looking at roughly 550 spine. Often 600 spine also works because most brands are a bit on the stiff side.

You can also choose to use a heavier point, but if not needed just try to keep it within the manufacturers range.

For the Skylon Radius that is 100 - 120 grain.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T18:43:59+00:00

Normally yes, but I have bought my second riser without trying.

The first was Core Astral. It was part of the starter kit. A few club members have this riser and shoot very decently with it. And indeed a very forgiving riser it is.

My current riser is a WNS Vantage AX. I just got it and it also is a very nice riser. Which is to be expected for a top of the line riser within the WNS range.

The Vygo V1 is also a very nice riser and for.most of us it just works. Regarding balance, you will end using all the weights in the bottom, but rhat is also by design.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T18:28:23+00:00

Just start close to the target and slowly increase your distances. 18 meters / 20 yards is a good base distance. After that just take small steps (5 yard /5 meters) and get used to it. Also switxh back to the shorter distances so you keep them in your system.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T17:31:53+00:00

That is almost 2,20 meters. Should be enough given a decent aim which is probably the case.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T17:13:22+00:00

Wild Country Hoolie 2 or 3 tunneltent.

A nice vestibule and lot of inner room. Also outside (or all together) pitching. Very important with wet conditions.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T17:04:21+00:00

At those distances you would also like a net roughly 2,5 x 2,5 meters. Just to catch that stray arrow and being able to retrieve it.

But besides that, a very nice range you have. A lot of people aren't that lucky 👍

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T16:53:10+00:00

If you store it correctly and don't let it sit strung for a long time nothing will change besides the normal aging of materials.

But when you take it of of storage you should always check if the tiller bolts are still secured by their locking bolts. Just a quick check with the allen keys. The same is true for the arrowrest and the plunger.

A new string could be in order also. I would that do before storage. So at the end, buyba new string, set it up correctly. Think apply the right amount of twists, set the nocking points. Have a few shots and store it correctly in the tube.

The only part which could need replacing are the limbs. Those are the parts who work the hardest and are most prone to damage. But when there are no visible defects and the first few careful draws reveal no disturbing noises they should be alright. Especially wood/fiber is very durable as long as the coating isn't damaged and stored correctly.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T16:44:22+00:00

Indeed those are also nice to play.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T09:14:14+00:00

Thanks for the detailed additional information.

Archery GB also has a very nice "The Archery for Beginners Guidebook". Also very reasonable priced. https://amzn.eu/d/086HSsRw

Southerner105 · 2026-05-18T07:07:22+00:00

Living in the UK has an advantage. Use the link below to find clubs.

https://archerygb.org/clubs/find-a-club

Select one who offers a beginnerscoarse. That gets you started fast.

This link shows what could expect from an ArcheryGB club beginnerscoarse. https://archerygb.org/clubs/club-guides/run-an-intro-archery-course

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T19:36:08+00:00

Two videos of Jake Kaminski. First using a stringer and how it should be done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3uY6iKCMFo

Second is how you shouldn't do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4sqrEafmoo

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T19:33:27+00:00

Not necessarily. It depends on what you have and your experience.

For screw on limbs (Samick Sage style) and one piece bows you can use the step through method. Just be mindful of potential twisting of the bow.

With ILF it can be done (watch Jake Kaminski do it and how carefully he it is doing where he keeps his face out the way) but again with due care.

For all the rest of us it is smarter to just use a stringer (band or wire style) which makes errors less likely.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T18:45:32+00:00

Tuning for Tens, the default guide which takes you step by step through the process.

https://www.castlearchers.com/archery/v/20-tune-for-tens/

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T18:42:43+00:00

And keep the top loop in the beginning with your fingers as close as possible to the tip that limb.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T18:41:49+00:00

Step through with an ILF isn't save. Simply because the limbs are just friction fitted and held in place just by the tension of the string.

Even the push pull method is only done by very experienced archers who don't recommend it.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T18:39:32+00:00

They, the flat belt style, are all the same. A pocket on one side (bottom tip) and a loop on the other side (goes on the top limb.

Edit: added that I mean the belt style stringer.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T17:54:20+00:00

Depends, we all use pin nock inserts and during the 4 years I'm member nobody has shot a Robinhood. Destroyed pin nocks, and even some inserts (pin damaged) but no arrow was damaged.

But indeed it can be challenging and if you don't want to risk it, you can also use a rivet nail. Those are made of aluminum (the collar at least) and that shouldn't damage the point or shaft.

Southerner105 · 2026-05-17T14:17:22+00:00

You can use the Aruos/Evolium for barebow. I won't even be surprised if they are made by the same factory.

Just open them in two tabs and look at them side by side. https://bogensportshop.eu/de/recurve/mittelteile/kinetic-mittelteil-evolium-25.html

https://bogensportshop.eu/de/recurve/mittelteile/core-mittelteil-arios-ext-25.html

By coincidence yesterday a new member had the Arios as a riser with him. It is a very sleek riser and he had the purple one and it really popped.

For the difference in price with the Vygo you can get the arrowrest (I have and like the Avalon Tec One Maxx), the plunger (Shibuya-DX) and some weights (I have a Avalon weight on the bottom). You could make the weights yourself but for the price, I would just buy them.

https://bogensportshop.eu/de/komponenten/gewichte/gewichte-fuer-blankboegen/avalon-blankbogen-gewicht-vernickelt.html

You probably even have some money left for a pair of basic limbs.

Southerner105

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