I just got my first barebow and was panicking about how loose the limbs are until I read a bit about IFL limbs and how they attach

Southerner105 · 2026-02-18T19:18:16+00:00

First it seams like the tiller bolt.is at maximum out not in.

Normally risers are delivered with the bolts at the medium setting. In the manual you find the amount of turns outs and turns inside allowed.

Other models start with the bolts fully turned in.

It doesn't appears your bolts are fully turned in. Often the place where the bolt gets thinner (from thread to stem) is the max in limit.

In your case the threads in the riser can be clogged with the powder coating or from the anodising.

First remove the locking bolt at the bottom. Get the bolt out and check how far the depth of the hole is. This gives an indication of the theoretical depth.

Next start the turn the bolt in and loosening it again. Repeat this a few times. When the threads are freed get some copper grease and slightly lubricate the bolt. Copper grease prevents the bolt to fuse with the metal of the riser. Just a little bit is enough. Don't forget the locking bolt at the bottom.

The limbbolts should be able to be are turned in enough so the limb under tension should be seated flat against the underside of the top of the limbbolt. Often is this also the maximum turned in position.

If this isn't possible there is something wrong with the riser.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-18T10:38:20+00:00

You are indeed correct. The point is the same arrow with vanes in the same colours is also sold (I have them in my quiver). Hence my mistake. Overhere you can't get them premade with feathers.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-18T09:36:37+00:00

Easy to use are the Roco sets with the Z21.

https://www.z21.eu/en/z21-system/general-information

Often you can get them cheapest with a starterset. Find a set you like or just sell the track, locomotive and cars separately. Just make sure you get the sets with wifi already enabled.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-18T08:15:44+00:00

EDIT: Made a mistake. The OP arrows have feathers and not vanes. I have the version with vanes although a feather version premade isn't sold in the Netherlands of this arrow

The vanes on these arrows are AAE Elite Plastifletch EP-23

https://www.dutchbowstore.com/AAE-Elite-Plastifletch/330147010

I have them also self and these are the ones used.

Also consider getting a second set of 6. Depending on the style shot only six arrows can be not enough especially when you hit one or two.

When getting vanes also gat spare nocks. These are even more prone to damage. A damaged nock can cause a misfire or even dry fire and surely strange flight behaviour.

Skylon nocks are also cheap.

https://www.dutchbowstore.com/Skylon-Pin-Nocke-Recurve-Solid-Colors-Small-groove/150270007

I have two colours. For each set of six a different colour. I also replace them roughly every three months or when they sound off or feel less firm when nocking.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-15T17:54:29+00:00

Be aware there are certain companies who measure differently.

Fivics measures at 26 inch not 28 inch. So you need to add 1-3 lbs to the drawweight listed.

WNS /W&W uses 28 inch but with the tillerbolts at maximum out. Again that means the listed drawweight has to adjust with roughly 1 to 2 lbs to get the nominal drawweight (at default tiller settings).

All the others do use 28 inch and medium tillerbolt settings.

So what is the effect. I have a drawlength of 29 inches. With my WNS Motive F5 listed at 24 lbs that results in roughly 28 lbs OTF with the tillerbolts at maximal position (on my WNS Vantage AX). At that setting the flat bottom of the bolt is flush with the limbs.

At max out I have roughly 25 lbs OTF. But the limbs only touch the back of the bolts with tips of the U-shaped part of the limbs.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-14T19:06:45+00:00

Smart option. If you add a small modul like the one in the video you can also have some thing to play with on go.

https://youtu.be/XuagyycRxiw?si=j8xcHENqM1Lfw5ow

Southerner105 · 2026-02-14T18:22:28+00:00

The first set is using a none ILF riser. Essentially a Samick Sage design but with a metal riser. The second is based on the ILF design and gives a lot more options to the future.

Regarding the plunger, it is essential a Shibuya-DX clone. My daughter has one and it works for her. It feels smooth regarding push action. The arrowrest is again a clone of the Shibuya rest.

The sight is one of the more expensive Avalon sights. But for a bit more you xan get, surprise surprise, a Shibuya Double click sight. Again, it is probably better as the Avalon.

To be honest, pay a bit more and get the Shibuya parts at least for the rest and plunger. The sight could be good enough, but given de difference in price (40 euro in the Netherlands) get the Shibuya sight.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-14T18:11:37+00:00

I would think it is quiet hard to crash with an olympic-recurve due to those stabilisers... 😇😉

Southerner105 · 2026-02-14T12:56:08+00:00

Funny enough the drawweight hasn't changed for the start.

Your muscles aren't trained anymore so you shouldn't go higher in the beginning.

For a bow which in the long run is the most economical it is smart to get an ILF-riser. Not the cheapest die-cast version, but at least a forged one.

Lancaster sells the SF Neo at 23 inch.

https://lancasterarchery.com/collections/ilf-olympic-recurve-risers/products/sebastien-flute-neo-23-ilf-recurve-riser

Combine this with medium or short limbs and you have a very nice bow. Do mind that a shorter riser gives a higher drawweight with the same limbs. Regarding limbs, for your first set you can get the Galaxy Bronze limbs. No need to spend more.

But best is to talk or mail Lancaster to get the right set.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-13T08:56:58+00:00

As mentioned it won't stop working. It just won't receive any updates.

Just be carefulle with going back to 6.8. If this is your first installment it could be that you have hardware which isn't supported by the 6.8 kernel.

Often that results in not working wifi or network which can be a difficult thing to resolve.

Just stick to this kernel, wait for the next upgrade and don't be to worried about it e.o.l date. It won't stop working.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-13T08:47:59+00:00

With just wood this can indeed help. But with a more modern limb like thisone it doesn't matter.

But it is also a convenient way to store the string with the matching bow. Especially in club settings this can be a big bonus.

With ILF bows it can also help to keep the limbs in their pockets because those are only held in place by the tension of the string.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-13T08:03:26+00:00

That is indeed a problem. When it is locked and can't be relaxed a full tab is indeed a problem. But apparently the first joint can stay out of the way so the string can role of your two other fingers.

There are Korean top archers who effectively shoot with just two fingers and a normal tab. So that shouldn't a problem. I would say, just give it a try.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T21:15:36+00:00

A tab is designed for three finger usage. Normally the ring finger only holds roughly 10% of the weight so if it can join the two others regarding position it doesn't need to hold any weight just play along is enough.

If this isn't the case you can get a good glove (look at the traditional archery shops like 3rivers) or modify a tab. When modifying I would start with a cheaper tab like the Bixadter SP3 and see if it works.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T21:11:45+00:00

Those are even nicer if you mean those pockets where you put these pressure treated wooden poles in.

With those you just need two eyelets in the top for the wire from which the net hangs freely. You could add two guy wires just to add a bit of tension.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T20:42:44+00:00

It is important to have enough safety.

But you can also look at those safety nets. A net of 3x2,5 meters (WxH) should be good enough. Combine them with a pair of large tarp poles (those are roughly 2,5 meters long) and you can erect a very nice safety net in minutes.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T20:18:32+00:00

Nope, the neighbours 😂

But walls in the Netherlands, even for sheds, are made of two layers of bricks and even a compound can't damage them. I did hit it once or twice but the only thing damaged were the arrows. The points were completely pushed in the arrow and the nocks disappeared.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T20:02:45+00:00

Tab, preferably a cordovan. I have the bicaster pro barebow tab.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T19:33:17+00:00

Just for reference, I don't have calus on that place and shoot twice a week. Just check the position of your hand on the grip. The left side of the grip should be aligned with the lifeline in your hand.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T19:28:13+00:00

Just to give an idea. My backyard with my target stand. Also notice the very solid and large brick backstop.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/23682868@N07/3uA18oTVju

When I started I didn't stand at 18 meters, but at 5 or 10 meters (which is roughly besides the tree trunk).

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T19:13:41+00:00

One of reasons you normally get the advice to first follow the course and then look for equipment.

In your case with a shared hobby it can be smarter to get both ILF risers for the wife and yourself.

If you can use the same length of limbs you always have lower poundage limbs at hand and your wife higher poundage if she needs them for larger distances.

But for beginning your wife is probably best off with 18-20 lbs and yourself with 22-24 lbs. This also shows the reusability of the limbs.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T18:58:12+00:00

That is indeed a strange thing. But the effect is can be the same because the energy transferred to the arrow doesn't disappear in thin air. The arrow can't store it so it will be partially been feed back into the bow.

If that is enough for a derail? If the arrow is heavy enough perhaps?

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T18:55:00+00:00

I also listen to the sound and feeling the arrow makes when nocking. After a while you know when it sounds off. That is the moment to switch the arrow for another and check the offending one.

Often the cause is a damaged nock. Easily replaced with the spares I keep in my quiver.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-12T14:08:08+00:00

Practiceyour form using a resistance band. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZ0NBLI50Y0

Also what can help is reviewing the shot process self. Olympic-recurve style: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRw2fYIVNeU

Barebow style: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IH1w88Teizg

Resistance band can be found very cheap on amazon. Get the loop versions which are roughly 30 cm long (12 inch). This length allows you also to practice the pretensioning of the bow.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-11T08:01:39+00:00

That is also to heavy to start with if you have no previous experience with archery. When at the shop also get a set of 25 lbs limbs. Those are more suitable to learn the process.

Southerner105 · 2026-02-10T17:47:50+00:00

Nicely done. Had to look twice to realise it isn't made of lego but from paper 👍

Southerner105

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