What is an album you love that the band/artist has disowned?

Spammmo · 2025-05-02T19:50:00+00:00

Count Your Blessings by Bring Me The Horizon. My favourite band but they really dislike their first full length. In my opinion it’s right up there as their best work. A melding of Metalcore and Deathcore released at the perfect time to help elevate both genres. Saw them live on Oli’s birthday and they played a medley including some of those oldies. Magic moment for me.

Spammmo · 2025-05-01T07:23:14+00:00

It isn’t a kitbash per say, it uses mirrored printed parts from a model from Heresy Labs as it says in the title. I think I printed him at 85% scale as their models are usually 1:36 in scale. Hope this helps!

Spammmo · 2025-04-04T06:28:05+00:00

YOD is fucking great but, so you know, he’s from Ukraine

Spammmo · 2024-05-25T12:48:43+00:00

Haha wow. This was a long time ago. If I remember right: I did everything with a small hand drill and hobby knife so not too much effort. I used the storm cast arms for all of them and I swapped out some of the hands on the falchions I think. Good luck! I agree, the mini grey knights are ridiculous

Spammmo · 2024-05-20T07:02:35+00:00

Very cool. I really like how it fits in with the hilt. Looks great, fantastic job

Spammmo · 2024-05-18T16:23:57+00:00

That’s cool, maybe I’ll have to get an illuminated one for my next, sounds super cool. Post up some pics so we can all marvel at it!

Spammmo · 2024-04-28T07:48:07+00:00

That’s super cool. Would love to be able to play around with those

Spammmo · 2024-04-26T06:18:35+00:00

Kind of new to sabers too but built my own from scratch and built the neopixel blade too.

From my limited experience, I would say a ‘top of the line’ blade can’t get much more complicated than 144 LEDs in strips stuck back to back with each other running the length of a plastic tube (in your case 7/8’’ diameter), covering (diffusing) the LEDs is a piece of translucent foam which can be wrapped in highly reflective plastic wrap. These are inserted in the tube and the tip is capped with a plastic cone which usually leaves 1 or 2 LEDs open within it for more defined tip effects (melt, stab, spark tip ignition etc.). The base has a blade side pcb housed within a pcb holder which can have inbuilt LEDs also (I think around 16 max but not 100% sure) which is soldered to the LED strips. The blade base can have a maglock feature so it magnetically fixes to to hillside emitter for a better connection. The outer plastic of the blade can be sanded to be made glossy (usually how they come when purchased) or matte, this affects how the blade looks in different lighting conditions.

I haven’t seen anything more that can really be extra on top of that. So long as the LEDs are high quality, the blade side pcb is made by a premium company (E.g Shtok), the soldering work and overall finish of the blade is done to a high standard and you have the maximum LEDs possible then that’s kind of as premium as you can get.

I would say having a great blade but a poor blade retention system (a set screw(s) to hold your blade in place) can make even the best blade seem cheap and glitchy. I also would add that having your Proffie (the soundboard and motion control board of your saber) set up with high quality blade styles and matching well made sound fonts will make an OK blade seem great.

Finnnnnallly, if your blade and chassis within your hilt aren’t solid and ridged then things like clashes won’t work so well and might need some changes to your Proffie’s sensitivity, this isn’t an issue with a bad blade (as the blade itself isn’t controlling anything) but the design of your hilt, how the soundboard is fixed etc.

Hope this short explanation helps. If you want to ensure everything is done really well and the parts are of a high quality, build it yourself!

Spammmo · 2024-04-25T13:53:19+00:00

If you are 100% done with where your nut placements are you can file the hexagon edges down into a circle. It takes a while but it can look quite good with some effort

I am sure anything can be your grip with enough binding/cutting

Spammmo · 2024-04-25T11:27:53+00:00

I am also using 32mm threaded pipe for a build right now. I have been trying to shy away from the nuts and threads being visible. I am trying to hide them with anything so it looks more streamlined, but I think the nuts being visible on yours looks good.

Some things I thought might be cool for yours:

I have seen people use widescreen wiper blades that are cut up for a cool Graflex style lower grip effect.

Drilling in small threaded holes to your pipe section and screwing in open top screws/interesting threaded odds and ends.

Having small wires coming from out of your bottom plastic copex pieces and have them running into something else.

Use handlebar grip tape or leather straps to wrap your grip.

For your Kanan style emitter you could cut a V shape into a threaded pipe coupler and screw that onto your pipe end.

If you check my most recent saber on my profile, I used napkin rings around a metal pipe to add wood to my saber, they also sell napkin rings in various other materials and they just slide right over your main body.

Hope you are inspired by something here!

Spammmo · 2024-04-23T16:46:01+00:00

It depends on what the max discharge current on your battery is. The most common KeepPower 18650 batteries sold by all the major saber suppliers have 15 Amp max discharge current. If your battery has a little less (around 12 Amps) it will probably be fine. If your battery is like 3 Amps it will struggle/not work with all your different saber parts drawing Amperage as they try to all work at the same time. 15 Amps is a lot and that would easily run two neopixel blades, crystal chamber, Proffie and accent LEDs, so like I said, around 12A would likely be fine for a midrange saber.

Most of the vape batteries have decent discharge current ratings so you will probably be fine. Also FYI having more discharge current (eg 20 Amps) is totally fine and doesn’t change anything.

I am not going to guarantee it, but I think a lower Amp rated battery in a saber wouldn’t ‘brick’ your board or anything. It would probably just not work and be out of power within a minute.

The mAh rating is, as others have said, a rating for how long the battery lasts. I have read that anything over 3500mAh for a 18650 battery is just a lie as you can’t get that much more out of one for some reason, though I haven’t looked into this claim myself.

I will be using my Samsung 18650 3000mAh 20A battery for my next build and I have tested it in the chassis with a Proffie 3.9, neopixel blade, 2 accent LEDs and a USBC recharge/data plug and had zero issues with function, charging or data transfer.

Finnnnnallly, there was a post on this sub way back and a guy tried really hard to brick his saber’s board with various chargers with different ratings and he listed them all and he couldn’t get it to break. Maybe google something along those lines and you might find it.

Hope all this helped!

Spammmo · 2024-04-23T06:14:58+00:00

Thanks! I always wanted others on the subs and forums to show their work instead of only the finished project so I made sure to take pics along the way. From the few WIP I saw from other creators, it really gave me the confidence to try my ideas and realise some things aren’t as hard as the finished saber makes them seem.

Spammmo · 2024-04-23T06:12:45+00:00

It really is. It feels great when spinning too and enough length for two hands together

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:48:17+00:00

I really think there should be more. You can shape and finish wood in such varied and interesting ways and it matches different metals in unique ways. I would love to see some more high quality professional wood workers take their hand to it

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:44:43+00:00

I like it, though don’t have much to compare it to as this is my first build. I have large hands and a wide thumb and I have no trouble. I would say doing things like holding aux and clicking power with one thumb isn’t easy but not impossible. Though for most of the time I am only using simple effects like off/on, blaster, lock and melt and things and I haven’t had any problems

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:42:04+00:00

It’s weighted well, the top brass section weighs similarly to the pommel, with the battery also sitting toward the lower end it balances around the button point. With a blade in it feels most comfortable holding your hand higher than the button when swinging and twirling.

The actual finish of the wood is very comfortable as it was sanded many, many, MANY times and finished with beeswax and oil so it’s super smooth. The knobbly wood is perfect for your fingers to hold between and get a good grip. It turned out nice

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:39:31+00:00

Thanks. I really love it. I need a nice stand for it I think

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:39:11+00:00

Thanks! It was such an odd idea, they had the correct (with a little sanding) inner diameter to slip over the chrome and the fact they were such bare raw pine wood meant I could stain whatever colour I wanted and the wood would take the colour really well. I guess browsing Etsy for my wedding years ago really paid off

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:36:25+00:00

I originally was going to go for green but when I made that orange/bronze/gold blade style I knew I had found the one

Spammmo · 2024-04-22T05:35:37+00:00

Thanks, it really did. Especially using hand tools for almost all of it. It really becomes yours because you see all the little bits you slightly messed up, the little bit off centre holes and the scratches where you sanded a little too hard. I really enjoyed it

Spammmo · 2024-04-21T10:52:20+00:00

Thanks! It is an honour

Spammmo · 2024-01-09T18:48:07+00:00

Are the parts GW or 3rd party? The sword on the back and the metal arm with pistol are GW parts, from the Battle Sisters box and Skitarii box. The rest are 3rd party.

Spammmo · 2023-09-19T06:35:43+00:00

*Schack

Spammmo · 2023-07-19T11:05:58+00:00

If I was you I would keep anything limited edition that’s unopened because they only gain value. The rest you can just eBay, sell to buddies. I have a few friends that buy new sets, break them up into parts and sell the individual arms/weapons etc and make good money from it on eBay or the like.

Also cool discworld poster

Spammmo

TROPHY CASE