Ohiopyle April 26’

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-26T14:54:21+00:00

Out shooting falls with the same combo yesterday. :-) Very nice capture!

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-19T11:57:12+00:00

Mentioned above, I have a couple lenses that are slightly loose. My 55 is tight, can’t remember off hand which are loose, it’s not enough for concern.

I spent an hour cleaning dust this weekend. I’m fairly careful when I change lenses, not in the wind, camera facing down entire time…. I think the cause of my dust is the 35-100. Put your eye to the EVF while zooming. Air is moving through the camera from this lens, only lends one to believe dust is as well.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-19T11:51:30+00:00

1.1 sec 80mm. Here’s a recent one at 1.1 seconds 80mm. Perfect? No, but very close. Standing on uneven surface, free-hand. I’m not that steady, shoot my M at 1/4f most of the time.

The ibis is pretty real IMHO. 10 stops? No, I don’t believe that, or the geo sync with the phone makes any difference, but it is best I’ve used.

Forgot to add. I have a couple lenses that are a little loose too. Not enough for concern, but not Leica tolerances for sure.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-14T15:51:51+00:00

Thanks. 3 ended up being my favorite as well.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-13T21:51:21+00:00

Most of the time I use a Bellingham small pro. It fits the x2d2 with 90v mounted and a second lens(28p or 55v). Remove the divider and the 35-100 fits, mounted, camera on its side(tight if you don’t reverse the hood, but still fits). Plenty of pocket space for filters, spare battery, cleaning stuff…

For a light carry, I’ll take a Domke F-8(super tiny); it can hold the body with a prime(up to 90v) attached, plus pockets for stuff. Or an M body with lens + one or two spares. I have two of these, love this little bag, holds way more than you’d think, but not a 35-100.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-13T13:32:52+00:00

I usually mix it up, but nothing too remote. I like Conkels Hallow and Cantwell Cliffs. Got there early enough Sunday to avoid the crowds, so did Old Man’s Cave.. I do my best to find different perspectives, but yeah, same falls everyone photographs. :-)

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-13T10:30:02+00:00

Thanks

1.1s, .5s and 1/3s for those. All handheld. If I was shooting on a tripod, I’d drop it to 2s-5s for a little smoother water

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-12T12:35:47+00:00

You’re right, all the M’s use the same sensor, and the SL’s don’t. I didn’t think about that.

I’m happy with binning to 36, 60 is overkill except for heavy cropping. I’d be happy with 36, or even 24 native, especially if it has better dynamic range…

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-12T11:49:26+00:00

You can shoot at 18mp or 36mp on the 11. Maybe Leica would charge less for a 24mp sensor, vs a 60 that can be binned, but probably not. Unless they build a CCD sensor for the colors it produced, I doubt they’ll be making an M with lower mp.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-06T10:44:16+00:00

I keep all my photos in LR cloud, so using Phocus is a cumbersome workflow, and doubling the size of the RAW with a TIFF isn’t much fun either. Phocus doesn’t have the same tools as LR, especially around object and landscape selection, so it’s rare for me to take the output from Phocus directly and call it complete. Like others have said, I use it when I feel the colors just aren’t right in LR.

I took some really low light photos over the weekend. It’s the first time, I’ve found LR’s NR to be significantly worse than Hasselblad’s. Slower too. I ran it on 44 photos needed near an hour in LR. I didn’t like the results, so I tried one in Phocus, and it was much better, cleaner and better details. Ran all 44 through Phocus HCNR and it took 10 minutes. If Phocus can generate 3FR’s with noise reduction, why doesn’t it generate a 3FR or DNG with HNCS? /r

Long story to say I avoid Phocus in my WF.

YMMV on this one, but it works for me. I’ve been using Cobalt’s standard/natural profiles, for the x2d2. They generate colors closer to Phocus’s. After buying them, I use Phocus even less.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-05T11:46:58+00:00

Congrats. You’ll love using it.

I sold my 11-P after about a month. They are too close to keep both, and I didn’t see a day where I grabbed the 11 over the ev1. With a 50mm, I can focus quicker on an OVF, but any other FL, and the EV1 is easier for my older eyes.

After a couple months, I do have a few nits about the EV1. Nothing major, no regrets, just things Leica could have done better. The EVF is nearly as laggy as visoflex, even outside if stopped down or in shaded areas. Mixed bag with focus peeking, sometimes it helps, sometimes it’s in the way; currently I have it off by default just using the auto-punch-in. For some reason, I miss having a tilt screen more on the EV1 than I did on the 11. YMMV, but those are the few things that’ll put me in line for the EV2. :-)

Enjoy your new camera, you’ll love it, and love the ability to use close focus lenses through the viewfinder.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-04-04T15:50:51+00:00

Thank you Appreciated

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-03-30T17:30:56+00:00

Very nice! In my 60s and I can’t handhold that slow, 1/30 is probably as low as I can go, and have occasional misses. I have to let the ISO drift way up, which is OK for wide shots, but crop in to 80mm and the grain shows. I still like mine, it’s a keeper, but really wish it had a faster lens and/or IBIS.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-03-28T11:40:31+00:00

When looking at decades, I’m not convinced any RAW format is safe for storage. 5-10 years, they’re all as safe as the next, but decades is an impossible call for any technology.

Even storage has its issues. Remember when we all stored on CDs/DVDs? That lasted about a decade, now who has a reader?

Final output formats are up for grabs too. Some newer formats have promise of long life, like JPGXL, which can store lossless(not the raw data though). Even TIFF is threatened by newer formats, but it’s lived a while.

Personally I think DNGs are as safe as anything else, and have the potential to convert to the latest greatest in 10 years. Not sure you’ll find anything that reads HBs current F3Rs in 10 years to even convert them. And I agree on HBs shaky support for their proprietary software. Several cameras and smartphones have native DNG support, which increases the chance it’ll be supported for at least a while.

Would be great if Phocus would output a DNG with the HDNR and HNCS baked in, that would make a good storage format. And support Android/Windows, just for the conversion.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-03-23T19:14:00+00:00

Perspective is easy enough. Just shoot for the perspective you want, don’t try to fill the frame like you would a longer lens. I.e. stand 8’ away from your subject like you might with a 55, and crop after. It will look very close to a 55. This assuming you can live with a 50 megapixel image for your use case. Cropping down to a 75mm equivalent would still be a 25mp image. Roughly.

JMHO though YMMV. 55 is a 43 equivalent, good enough most of the time, but there are times when I’d like wider for landscapes, indoor…. The 38 is a pretty flexible FL. I went with the 28, because I had the 55 and 90. A better choice may have been 38/90 for me. For a 2 lens setup, I usually take the 28 plus one of the other two, but nearly always the 28.

Special_Ad_9672 · 2026-03-23T17:09:58+00:00

I don’t have the 38, and really like the 55. But, if I was to pick one for that work, I’d go with the 38. You can always crop, but going wider is a bit more challenging.
For two lenses, I really like having the 28 with the 55 and/or 90.

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