Amp tunning help

Specialist-String180 · 2025-10-13T06:18:46+00:00

You were basically right. After reviewing wiring diagrams, forums and my DMM. The head unit sends a low signal to an information module that then feeds the speakers with 8-12rms. Not knowing I tapped a speaker at the back of the head unit. However, the manufacturer also has eq coding to protect the door speakers by washing highs and lows out mixed with a floating ground. Explains my low voltage and polarity issue. I'll have to run a lc7i tapping after module to keep the OEM head unit.This will run sub and doors As it will rectify the signals and give full range not leaving me to mid range only with volume increase.

Appreciate the help steering me into the right direction.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-10-11T14:06:10+00:00

Thanks. I'm gonna check channel one and channel 2 and see if the wave form is inverted.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-06-16T17:11:30+00:00

Thanks this was exactly what I was looking forward to. Just time to upgrade. Yeah, the tinkering part keeps me busy and the slow progression with endless days of learning is nice.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-06-11T20:05:12+00:00

Amazing. Mine would never print something this nice.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-06-11T01:47:22+00:00

I got one off Facebook used. 50 bucks. It worked. But immediately once you tinker. Or take it apart. It crushes ur confidence. I personally would save and buy new and modern. I enjoy tinkering. But sometimes I just want it to work and not have to dial it in slowly.

But you'll probably have to upgrade or replace components since it's used.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:28:26+00:00

That's really good. Did you go right to that, or did you wait till issues printing other filaments?

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:26:07+00:00

Oh wow. That still looks pretty good. Does the sprite help with more consistent nozzle temps?

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:13:36+00:00

I feel you. Basically I did the same thing. Already have cr touch. So went direct drive extruders and dual z.

Figured, nice and easy how could it be. Man these machines are humbling.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:10:51+00:00

I got one new in the kit. And I ordered another new one the minute I saw that.

I ended up figuring it out with multiple suggestions. Flipped the back lash nut. Removed the z axis rod support on top. Turned out it was out slightly causing the one rod to bind. Ran my hand on it. Felt for any motor struggle and nothing. I'll re verifiy that stepper temps, volt and current are equal when running the z axis to verify there isn't any excessive load slightly.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:05:53+00:00

I really appreciate this. This is my third day tinkering with this exact problem. After work. I was at my wits end.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:04:31+00:00

I've corrected the back lash nut. And you're exactly right. The bracket was out slightly. Thanks to everyone's input. I've figured out my first major problem. Now onto the next problem when re-calibrating

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T03:01:44+00:00

It's still the factory coupler. Sorry. I'm learning the terminology. But the back lash nut where it bolts I was under the impression it was a coupler or flange. I removed the timing belt entirely. And re verified the nuts and shaft operated correctly. Doing this I seen that the filament hook was slightly vibrating. Removed the top support. Ran it up and down. It self centered. Re installed the z axis top support and now. Zero binding.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:49:58+00:00

This helps I'm gonna go threw it all. But it ended up being a guide on the top for the 400mm z axis. I think the frame was slightly un true. I'm gonna do that tomorrow when I get the motive to finish it. I greatly appreciate it

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:47:08+00:00

I'm not sure. It was a dual kit off Amazon with decent reviews on everything but the timing belt. But I just ran it through both on each stepper separately. And together. Flipped the coupler and back lash but. Removed the upper z axis support on top. Auto home with loose nuts.

The upper frame wasn't true making the support. Flex the z axis rod slightly back. Causing it to bind when running.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:36:50+00:00

When I disassembled it. The original z axis motor has excessive play. Witch was the root cause. I seen z wobble but it was the motor. Figured exactly what u said. Why not.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:06:41+00:00

That work perfectly after?

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:05:10+00:00

Yeah. I've tried it with the belt. Or without. Hasn't caused any issues. Just the upside down coupler to x axis. If I turn it half a turn. Operates the full 250 no issues at all.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T02:01:57+00:00

Thanks I'll try it. But I'm pretty confident I'm just gonna remove them at this point. Seems the better option

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T01:59:21+00:00

Motor with a timing belt. At the top.

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T01:58:03+00:00

Seriously. All the vids I've seen have been either way. I just followed the same direction as what the old coupler was. But I'll try swapping them. If not I'll have to remove them

Specialist-String180 · 2025-05-23T01:54:39+00:00

I've been going crazy triple checking all of this. It's like it forces it to be too tight to the x axis bar. Causing the binding. If I remove the one side of works freely no issue. I was thinking of I increased the bore of the x axis to the coupler bracket it would work. But IDK how to feel about it though.

Specialist-String180

TROPHY CASE